Restore cost

[Jc.av8r]

What would it cost to do a semi restore? Rebuild engine, suspension and axels, and take body to bare metal and repaint? That's about I really want to do.

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Rebuilding the engine, installing new suspension and axles, and restoring the body from bare metal (frame off is the only way to do it right) is not a "semi restore" lol.

You're getting into a full frame off restoration including the drive train. And this doesn't include all of the "while we're in here" items you will come across.

Scope creep is INEVITABLE.

Be real with yourself and swallow the bitter truth pill. If you're contracting out all or most of this work, you're going to spend $80,000 in the end, if not more.

 

[67RT]

2 or 3
Twice the cost and three times as long as expected. Or,
Triple the cost and twice the time expected.

Labor is what will really drive up the costs. That is why most do it themselves, even then it is still expensive.

And as mentioned above, depends on the starting condition.

This.. Decent paint including interior and engine compartment will be at least 200 hours and that is with no major body damage. My guy was cheap at $45 an hour so do the math and do whatever you can on your own.

 

[Rustytruck]

Doing all the work yourself can be cheaper until you hurt yourself and then the emergency room visit gets expensive.

Rebuilding the track bar at both ends and balancing or replacing the tires should resolve your death wobble especially if you repack the front bearings. There just saved you $1000.

 

[Jakedog]

Add up your numbers. Double it. You're almost there

This is a good estimate tool.

I have close to $5k just for the engine. I didn't build the engine and I didn't install it. I just bought all the parts for it. The guy who did the work does quality work, and I was willing to pay for it. The more work you can do on your own helps cut the cost. Quality labor isn't cheap.

 

[NC-Fordguy]

I understand what your saying....that's why my list is small. EFI cause I'd hope it would give me some better MPG, so I don't have to stop at gas station every time I drive by it. Engine rebuild I have a oil leak, figure it could use a fresh up while fixing the oil leak. Paint....cause I want to change color to a gray. Suspension needs a overall because of death wobble at 55 or 60.

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Death wobble starts around 30-40 mph. Sounds like you have something else going on.

EFI will not get better milage than a properly tuned carb. The advantage to efi is elimination of cold starts and altitude changes.

My 77 with a mustang gt MAF, nv-3550, 35 in tires 3.5 suspension lift and 1 in body lift gets around 14mpg(currently out of commision due to a wreck)

My 74 with a TA carb, c-4 auto tranny, 37 in tires, 3.5 suspension lift and 2 in body lift gets about 12mpg.

Obviously the OD of the nv-3550 is the biggest factor

 

[Rustytruck]

What axle gearing in the 1974 and the 1977.

 

[markw]

My experience: All of the above. No idea how much I have in my 68 frame up. I wouldn't do anything different other than Q jet rather than FitTech (Huge PIA and a ton of cash and time and it's still no right) and I'd use aftermarket quarters and fenders rather than repairing what I had. I have my own shop and a talented guy who helps with mechanical stuff, I did all the bodywork and paint. Pretty much had to go all in, the Bronco wasn't a quick fix, everything was worn out, broken, hacked and beat. Best thing No Rust though. Point being if you can buff it out and do the work needed to make it safe and as reliable as possible and enjoy the hell out of it, do that. If you want to pass more gas stations get a 23 gal tank!

 

[blubuckaroo]

Make a comprehensive plan with the end product in mind. Then break it into components... Body, chassis, drivetrain, and interior to keep it all manageable.
Then, stick to your plan!
Too many loose focus and change their minds about stuff after starting. At that point, the price just keeps going up.

 

[Ksm]

All I know is that I honestly started laughing when I read this thread title. No offense, but I don't even want to know my grand total of how much I've spent over the last 13+ years I've been restoring mine. The cash alone would be staggering (never charged a dime). And that doesn't include the trades, friend's time and labor, parts I've given away, etc.

But seriously, I think multiplying your estimate by 2.5 would be a better ballpark.

 

[ransil]

Usually 3x more money and time from the initial estimate

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[Muddy1966Bronco]

These builds can be done on any budget, and like previously said, you really need to evaluate what you can do. I’m personally pretty handy and can put in hours a day of my time on my Bronco. I can’t afford new panels, OEM items or high money rebuilds, so it means lots of hours, trading parts if possible and doing simple stuff to an already working drivetrain like seals and fluids. My previous Bronco, I snagged a factory remained 302 long block for $600, plopped it in an $800 Bronco, used the original ‘66 drivetrain, fixed the body, then sprayed painted it. $2k-$3k total investment to get it on the road and it was a head turner that ran beautifully. This build I’m doing now will be closer to $10k, but that’s with buying the thing for $5k. I’d be in the hole tens of thousands more if I had to pay someone to build this. Really focus on what you need and whether you want a project for 10 years, or something you can drive and enjoy much sooner. And seeing the Broncos at the Roundup this year really impressed me. Not everyone is driving a $50k immaculate rig. I love to see them too, but I also loved seeing Broncos used and with holes, filler, or dents. Every single build is great.

 

[NC-Fordguy]

What axle gearing in the 1974 and the 1977.

4.56 on both. 74 rear has a detroit locker with 35 spline shafts, 77 rear has arb with 31 spline shafts.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Just don't spend more than you've got. That means, never ever, ever, take a loan out on a toy.
Yes, at this point, Broncos for most of us should be considered just another toy.%)

 

[Remos69]

Blubuckaroo is correct! But remember, you only need one kidney!!

 

[Uncut1970]

I stopped counting once the spreadsheet hit $30k! That was for a moderate frame on partial rebuild.

All my wife knows is that the bronco itself cost ten grand!!!

I’m in the same boat, but closer to $40k in and still not quite there.

 

[DirtDonk]

...EFI cause I'd hope it would give me some better MPG, so I don't have to stop at gas station every time I drive by it.

Like NC said, no guarantee. And certainly not enough to pay for the mod.
If you are factoring in cost-vs-fuel cost, then EFI is rarely, if ever a benefit to a Bronco owner.
Many get the same economy overall. Even though I can get roughly 5mpg better when holding my breath at 55mph, my fuel economy with full Explorer EFI is EXACTLY the same around town as it was with the carburetor.
Where do you drive yours and how much?

The driveability is the reason for changing. And hope yours lives up to it's hype.

Suspension needs a overall because of death wobble at 55 or 60.

Doesn't sound like a death wobble from your lack of exclamation points after the description!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!;D
Is it repeatable at the same point?
Does it literally shake the steering wheel out of your hands and feel like it's going to rip the front end out of your Bronco and won't stop until you slow down to just a few miles an hour?
Does it happen all the time, or just after hitting a certain bump at a certain speed?
If it's not any of those, then it's just a wobble. A bad shimmy...

If it's shaking the crap out of you until you slow down, and you had to clean your underwear out the first time you experienced it, then it's not just the suspension components. It's the tires.
Are yours old tires? Been off-roading or let the kids drive it and they like to drive over curbs at the local Taco Bell? If any of those are met, it could be the tires.

Of course, a shimmy or shake or mild wobble is likely the tires as well, but it never hurts to tighten up the trackbar anyway, like Rusty said. If you have a case of just-under-the-radar shimmy, a loose trackbar, or out of whack wheel bearings will let it go over the edge to make it that wobble.

But a true Death Wobble is an experience to behold.
A real come-to-Jesus moment.

Paul

 

[sprdv1]

These builds can be done on any budget, and like previously said, you really need to evaluate what you can do. I’m personally pretty handy and can put in hours a day of my time on my Bronco.

Definitely....

 

[Muddy1966Bronco]

But a true Death Wobble is an experience to behold.
A real come-to-Jesus moment.

Paul

Ditto. Your description of a death wobble is right on, Paul! I’ve been in it and watched it from a rear view on my old diesel F-350. It looks and feels like the vehicle is going to chuck the front axle right out from under you. Ours happened after being professionally repaired from a front on collision and decided to show up on the 8 hour way to vacation...ended up fixing it with tree stumps for jack stands at our vacation house and nearly crying and having a heart attack for months afterward every time we hit a bump even though the wobble was fixed. It’s traumatic.

But what I learned is it can be any hidden play in your suspension. Ours was a leaf spring bushing that looked fine, but the collision had smashed it enough that it had a little play. U bolts weren’t as tight as they should have been. So I’d highly suggest rechecking torques on front end suspension components and replacing worn bushings. The culprit can be utterly hidden and look normal.

 

[fordguy]

Decide your budget first, how much do i have or will have to spend. Then create a plan and stick with it. Otherwise, you cannot nail down the cost. It can go from hundreds of dollars to tens of thousands, as others have noted in this thread with their cost so far. We can give you advise all day long but the plan is the only way you will know before you build. and build in some amount of contingency (minimum 10 percent)