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Reuse original windshield frame or replace? Advice needed.

skrit

Contributor
Bull City Bronco
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
508
Loc.
Durham
Have an original windshield frame with some rust pin holes. I'm rebuilding most of my tub with new.

I'm gun shy about any aftermarket steel since I've had a hell of a time getting parts to fit. I've also read many "new" windshield frames are not the right size.

If you were me... would you drill out the spot welds on the existing frame hinge, sandblast then epoxy fill the holes. Then use riv nuts to bolt the frame onto my new cowl member or just get a new one?

Pics of existing frame:

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serial car restorer

Yes, I'll restore almost anything...
Joined
Aug 27, 2024
Messages
742
Loc.
Western Oregon
I'm going to guess that you have a lot more rust inside that frame than you think. I'd replace it. The one I put on my '69 project was from WH, and it seems to fit just fine.
 

jeffncs

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
1,894
Loc.
Raleigh, NC
@skrit

i just sent you a bunch of pics and messages. I’ll post here for the community to benefit too.

You’re using a new cowl. For those re-using their cowl, clean and plug weld the cowl.

I install riv-nuts / nutserts in the cowl rather than welding the new windshield to the cowl. This allows you to use a SS hinge if you’d like by installing nutserts on the w/s frame and cowl. Do your filler, priming, …now.

Drill holes in the windshield hing along the cowl side if they don’t already exist. Target 16-20 5/16” holes, evenly spaced.

Line up the hinge / windshield frame to the cowl and center It. Using the hinge holes as a guide, drill the holes through the cowl for each hinge hole.

Prime and paint the drilled holes and cowl area with your choice of chemicals.

install the nutserts across the cowl length into each of the drilled holes . I typically go with 1/4-20 threaded nutserts.

I seal the hinge-cowl with HVAC putty (Comes in a wax-backed roll from Home Depot).

I use countersunk Allen head bolts as they’re very low profile and sit low enough for the stock rubber hinge seal to still work.

IMG_4569.jpeg IMG_4570.jpeg IMG_4572.jpeg IMG_4571.jpeg
 
OP
OP
skrit

skrit

Contributor
Bull City Bronco
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
508
Loc.
Durham
Thanks for the advice! I'll swing by Dennis Carpenter and pick a new one up.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,617
Agree with all of the above. If there had been less rust, I would’ve said, fix the existing one for all the reasons you were concerned with. But because yours is quite literally almost gone, a new one is called for
And since you were going to remove the existing one to fix it anyway, then remount it in a different manner as well, than a new frame is the only real solution.

And as Jeff clearly pointed out, go to great lengths to seal all aspects of the hinge and mating surfaces.
They sometimes leaked from the factory, they often leak after a renewal, and it’s a horrible place to have water coming in when you think you’re done with pulling things apart.
 
OP
OP
skrit

skrit

Contributor
Bull City Bronco
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
508
Loc.
Durham
As a followup, I picked up the new frame. I'm bolting it in. Those bolts are 1/4" stainless steel hurricane (sidewalk) bolts from Amazon. They are low profile and don't interfere with the bottom of the windshield frame. Will be using the typical rubber seal between the hinge with the correct bulb side back towards the cowl. A layer of low profile waterproof self sealing butyl tape will be between the cowl and lower hinge surface.

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DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
51,617
Those look great! How did you measure for front to back and side to side positioning? Did you already have that written down? Or did it all just line up with the old holes?
 
OP
OP
skrit

skrit

Contributor
Bull City Bronco
Joined
Apr 24, 2006
Messages
508
Loc.
Durham
@DirtDonk
The hinge had bolt holes already in it on the lower hinge. I centered it in the cowl and made sure the 2 main windshield bolts lined up and that there was clearance for those bolt brackets, clamped and drilled.
 
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