Rocker Arm nuts Driving me INSANE!! HELP

[broncnaz]

I think my post on checking the stud was wrong as I believe the fulcrum will slide all the way down on both types. But Mitzel was right about the non adjustable stud which has smaller 5/16 threads then the rest of the stud is 3/8in. the adjustable stud will be the same size all the way down and should be the screw in type.

 

[HotWheels]

mine is the 5/16 thread and 3/8 stud...ok i'm going nuts now...don't wanna detract from what u need bro...good luck!

 

[forestguy]

OK,

I have 3/8 studs and 3/8 threads.

I wasted lots of oil today (about 4 quarts) but got the valves adjusted. The ol' MONYPT runs like a champ now. THe only thing I need to do now is clean the oil of the engine and get her back to lookin good.

Thanks for all your help guys, I couldn't of done it without you. Also, I went and got some positive locking rocker nuts from summit so I never have to go through this again, hopefully.

Thanks again,
Rodd

 

[mitzel]

forestguy
> Also, I went and got some positive locking rocker nuts from summit
> so I never have to go through this again, hopefully.

are you saying you currently have non-locking/free running nuts on
there? if so, then yea, you need to get those replaced immediately.
adjutable valve train must have a locking nut on there. the factory
piece is an all metal locking nut that sorta has a triangular hole
(slightly deformed from round). it should take at least 5ft lbs
breakaway torque to start the nut turning to be within factory specs.


good luck! danny

 

[ransil]

OK,

I have 3/8 studs and 3/8 threads.

I wasted lots of oil today (about 4 quarts) but got the valves adjusted. The ol' MONYPT runs like a champ now. THe only thing I need to do now is clean the oil of the engine and get her back to lookin good.

Thanks for all your help guys, I couldn't of done it without you. Also, I went and got some positive locking rocker nuts from summit so I never have to go through this again, hopefully.

Thanks again,
Rodd

There is a little clip made that snaps over the rocker arm to prevent oil from going everywhere, I think I got mine from snap-on or Mac about $10 or you can cut out the middle of an old valve cover.

 

[forestguy]

forestguy
> Also, I went and got some positive locking rocker nuts from summit
> so I never have to go through this again, hopefully.

are you saying you currently have non-locking/free running nuts on
there? if so, then yea, you need to get those replaced immediately.
adjutable valve train must have a locking nut on there. the factory
piece is an all metal locking nut that sorta has a triangular hole
(slightly deformed from round). it should take at least 5ft lbs
breakaway torque to start the nut turning to be within factory specs.


good luck! danny

These are the rocker nuts I had!! I am very happy with the CompCams locking nuts I got from Summit. I am very lucky to have summit Racing Superstore 15 miles from the house. I have never had to wait for shipping, just the little punks they have working for them.

 

[ransil]

There is a little clip made that snaps over the rocker arm to prevent oil from going everywhere, I think I got mine from snap-on or Mac about $10 or you can cut out the middle of an old valve cover.

This is a pic of the rocker clips.

 

[ransil]

This is a pic of the rocker clips.

Wonder what motor I left the missing one in.

 

[forestguy]

Where did you get those?? They would of saved me lots of clean-up.

Anyway, I have it running great no. The wife and dogs and I are going to take it for a ride this afternoon to see how she runs on the highway.

Thanks again all,
Rodd

 

[ransil]

Where did you get those?? They would of saved me lots of clean-up.

Anyway, I have it running great no. The wife and dogs and I are going to take it for a ride this afternoon to see how she runs on the highway.

Thanks again all,
Rodd

Snap-on or Mac cost was about $10 15 years ago