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roll cage doesn't fit

navi

Full Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
I had a half cab roll cage shipped out here, and just got it back from the powder coating shop. Well, it is too big from front to back by about 1.5"
I asked the roll cage maker about it and they said powder coating heat on the steel tubes can make them bend back a bit to when they were straight. The temp is 420F degrees during the coating.
Anyone heard of this before?

btw the advice is to try and bend it back with ratchet straps.
 

Boss Hugg

Contributor
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Jun 8, 2010
Messages
2,203
Did you prefit it before powdercoating? I would take no issue to bending the tubes to fit. Make it happen.
 

BanditBronco

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Messages
690
Sadly a mail order cage on a 50 year old truck is usually going to have some fit up needed. They literally are all different. manufacturers of bolt in parts do their best to ride the fine line of mostly fitting everything kinda.

I honestly don't think 10 minutes at 420 degrees can affect how the tubes end up laying out. I think that was probably the easiest out for the builder. I do understand it though, that is way easier than telling the customer, "yeah sometimes they don't fit that good".

I think you will be surprised how much movement you can get out of the lower legs with a couple ratchet straps. That is pretty common practice for installing a cage. I wouldn't worry about cracking the powdercoat, it should have more stretch than that.
 
OP
OP
N

navi

Full Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
Did you prefit it before powdercoating? I would take no issue to bending the tubes to fit. Make it happen.

premeasured seemed enough. I would need to removed the seat belt retractors and move the dash forward to do a proper fit, didn't want to.

Sadly a mail order cage on a 50 year old truck is usually going to have some fit up needed. They literally are all different. manufacturers of bolt in parts do their best to ride the fine line of mostly fitting everything kinda.

I honestly don't think 10 minutes at 420 degrees can affect how the tubes end up laying out. I think that was probably the easiest out for the builder. I do understand it though, that is way easier than telling the customer, "yeah sometimes they don't fit that good".

I think you will be surprised how much movement you can get out of the lower legs with a couple ratchet straps. That is pretty common practice for installing a cage. I wouldn't worry about cracking the powdercoat, it should have more stretch than that.


The powder coater said as much...
"We have been powder coating cages and tube suspension parts and 1/.2 cages since I have been here. Polaris / can am / Toyota and more and have never heard this. At only 420 degrees this is not nearly enough to heat a tube red hot to make it bend. I have been in the powder coating business 25 years and even in Sheetmetal is is rare to see any movement in the metal."
 

JB Fab

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Mar 21, 2004
Messages
1,292
Yes, I've 'built to fit' several cages, upon installation (after powder coating) there were fitment issues that required ratchet straps to pull the sides in. My understanding is that it is more of an issue with ERW than DOM.
 
OP
OP
N

navi

Full Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
Yes, I've 'built to fit' several cages, upon installation (after powder coating) there were fitment issues that required ratchet straps to pull the sides in. My understanding is that it is more of an issue with ERW than DOM.

Looks like I'm doing some ratcheting, regardless of the cause.
I got some big ass ratchets normally used for tying rail loads...hope they can do the trick. ;D
 

okie4570

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NW OK
Not sure who built your cage, but I do know that the fiberglass half cab top has different dimensions than the original steel top. Bailie Bilt cages takes that into account, and needs to know which top you have prior to building.
 

gnpenning

Bronco Slave
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,328
Loc.
I have more questions than answers.
Several years ago a friend bought a cage that he bolted in not wanting to drill through new paint later. After getting it ready for paint everything was taken apart. Sent the roll bar out for powder coating and the body for paint. Upon assembly the bolt holes didn't line up. Don't recall which pipe was used.


Like mentioned ratchet straps are your friend.
 

bronkenn

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Bronco Guy
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Apr 27, 2017
Messages
2,681
Loc.
Southeast Ohio
Yes, I've 'built to fit' several cages, upon installation (after powder coating) there were fitment issues that required ratchet straps to pull the sides in. My understanding is that it is more of an issue with ERW than DOM.

Same here. Ratchet straps worked well.
 
OP
OP
N

navi

Full Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
Same here. Ratchet straps worked well.


Dayum!
I call these my pipe movers.
97ede47e25051f17d3b294e1a9d68222.jpg
 

71 CA Bronco

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Joined
Nov 25, 2015
Messages
764
Those straps might be over kill. It appears that if you rig it lower it would pull in fairly easily.

This appears to be a very common issue. I think more so after welding. Metal bends, expands and shrinks. Your tub could have shifted as well. My rear bars were so far off after I welded them in place, when I bolted the cage down to the tub my tailgate wouldn't latch. A little persuasion with porta power and straps fixed that problem.
 
OP
OP
N

navi

Full Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
Those straps might be over kill. It appears that if you rig it lower it would pull in fairly easily.

This appears to be a very common issue. I think more so after welding. Metal bends, expands and shrinks. Your tub could have shifted as well. My rear bars were so far off after I welded them in place, when I bolted the cage down to the tub my tailgate wouldn't latch. A little persuasion with porta power and straps fixed that problem.

I was gentle.

The home depot type, 1" straps I tried first didn't do anything at all.
The maker recommended not going too low fwiw.
 

Timmy390

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Jan 1, 2011
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Conway, AR
Those straps might be over kill. It appears that if you rig it lower it would pull in fairly easily.

This appears to be a very common issue. I think more so after welding. Metal bends, expands and shrinks. Your tub could have shifted as well. My rear bars were so far off after I welded them in place, when I bolted the cage down to the tub my tailgate wouldn't latch. A little persuasion with porta power and straps fixed that problem.

Yes overkill.....but ues'em if you got'em ;D

Very common after welding. Had that issue with the cage I put in my Samurai. Things moved during welding. PITA

As for powder coating...don't they heat things up to 400 degrees plus? That's going to let metal stress relieve it's self. Relax if you will and things will move. Might also have to do with how it's hung during the heating process? Or I'm talking out my backside....

Tim
 

JeffG

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May 7, 2004
Messages
512
Loc.
San Antonio, TX
I would at least recommend removing the seats, bulkhead and door straps, swinging the doors out of the way.

Why do you have it sitting in the bed backwards? Perhaps you used the bronco to pick it up from the powder coater. Anyway, I like the color choice!
 
OP
OP
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navi

Full Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
I would at least recommend removing the seats, bulkhead and door straps, swinging the doors out of the way.

Why do you have it sitting in the bed backwards? Perhaps you used the bronco to pick it up from the powder coater. Anyway, I like the color choice!

yeah, I picked it up and it wouldn't fit in the front, so I strapped it in the back.
 
OP
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navi

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Jul 17, 2020
Messages
155
The cage is in, barely, it needed to be cranked on, put the windshield down, horsed it in there.

One thing, I thought there was stronger steel underneath the floor than just sheet metal.
Do people just bolt to the floor usually, or is my bronco possibly missing some thicker steel that should be there?
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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48,743
Congrats on getting it installed. Got pics?

Regarding the structure, you're giving Broncos too much credit. Sheet metal it is, and mostly just one layer over most of the truck. The only places where it's double thick are where Ford could not figure out a less expensive way to spot weld two panels together.
So no, the floor is just one layer over most of it's area, with things like strips and corrugations for rigidity. But not for strength for mounting a roll-bar, since Ford did not offer one. Or likely not even think one was going to be used by the owners.

Then again, maybe someone was thinking along those lines since that one area just in front of the rear wheel wells is flat without corrugations?

Luckily, as it turns out most of us have never put the roll-bars to any kind of a stress test by rolling over. Because over the last sixty years most of them were indeed as you suggest, just bolted straight to the floor. Some without even utilizing larger than normal washers to spread the load. But the issue was known from the beginning, so some of us did practice better mounting strategies. And some, not so much...

Some used larger washers, some of us used reinforcing plates, and some actually went the whole way and made custom lower mounts to connect the roll-bar feet to the frame of the vehicle.
And then there were the custom cages that had floor braces that mounted the seats and seat belts to the cage, rather than to the floor. The thinking being that if the cage detached from the body, the passengers stayed with the cage. Not sure if that's actually a better mousetrap, but it does make a certain sense.

Then you still have to contend with your head bouncing around during an accident and banging on the vertical tubes of 90% of the roll cages out there. Having that main tube right behind your ear is not exactly the best placement. Looks good, but you hope you never have a bumpy enough ride to conk your noggin on the bar. Or worse still, an extension bracket for the shoulder harness!

My recommendation would be to at least make some reinforcing plates to go under each mount. Based on the size of the foot pad, and available space underneath.
If you want to go next level, have custom anchors fabricated to bolt the cage to the frame. More work, but probably the best of the methods for a bolt-in cage.

Paul
 
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