Scoop's 72 Patina Build

[Slowleak]

I think I'm going to leave the dash pad off. But I need to take the top off first to get to the back side screws.

If you don’t want to take the top off, you can cut the heads off of those screw by slipping a thin cut off wheel between the windshield and the dash. I have done several that way with a mini die grinder and cutoff wheel. Just put something up against the windshield to protect it in case you get crazy......

 

[sprdv1]

Nice Gary... Jumping right into it..

It's ALIIIIVE!!

After a full brake job, all wheel bearing replaced, new battery, new fuel pump, new distributor, new wires, new coil, and after replacing the carb with a used carb i already had, it's running and driving very good!

Now I'm off to the LEBC Central Texas Meet & Greet in Lakeway. This Bronco has not been registered and on the street since 2003. I hope it makes a 40 mile round trip OK!!

 

[Scoop]

I got some work done on the 72. PO named it Baby Kat so I'll probably stick with that even though I don't usually name my Broncos. First thing was I found a nice "matching patina" front bumper and got it installed. Plan is to eventually narrow the bumper about 3-4 inches each side but that's down the road a bit!

Next was pull the top. I've got a better top located so this one will get scrapped. It's got enough rust to make it a lot of work to repair.

I'm using motorcycle straps and hooks in the rafters to lift the top off. Simple but it works!

I made a top dolly on wheels to move it around easily.

Here she is topless!

Getting the top off got me access to the screws to remove the dash pad. As I said before, this is the worst condition dash pad I have ever seen!!

Much better now!

Next project is to install the Duff's 3-speed floor shifter and then the roll bar before I put the new top on.

 

[NGABronco]

But I need to take the top off first to get to the back side screws.


And while you have the top off, you might as well________________________________________!!

Fill in the blank!!!;D

Ha Ha !!! That's what I said a few posts back!!!! ;D;D;D

 

[Scoop]

Ben, LOL! I need more blanks to fill in!

. . . repair the rust (minor rust) on the windshield frame . . .

. . . repair some holes (not rust) on the new top . . .

. . . repair a couple spots on the top of the bed sides . . .

. . . remove, repair and paint the dash . . .

. . . paint the interior (much easier with the top off!) . . .

. . .

 

[sprdv1]

I'm using motorcycle straps and hooks in the rafters to lift the top off. Simple but it works!

I like the rope ratchet things.. Just add a secure tie off up top

 

[NGABronco]

Ben, LOL! I need more blanks to fill in!

. . . repair the rust (minor rust) on the windshield frame . . .

. . . repair some holes (not rust) on the new top . . .

. . . repair a couple spots on the top of the bed sides . . .

. . . remove, repair and paint the dash . . .

. . . paint the interior (much easier with the top off!) . . .

. . .

HaHa!! Gary if I wasn't guilty of it, I certainly wouldn't bring it up!!!!%)%)
That's them "While I'm at it" kinda things!!!
Good Luck and MC & HNY!!!;D;D;D

 

[Scoop]

So I've been making some (slow) progress on the 72. The more i work on it the more I like it!

The white wagon wheels needed some work - the paint was chipped and they had some rust starting. I painted them Wimbledon White. Not perfect but much improved. I also broke the bead on all 4 tires and added balancing beads. The new tires had never been balanced. Breaking the bead on the tires made it much easier to paint the wheels. Plus I installed the rear flares - WH Gorilla Flares.

The fenders were already cut big so the 31's look a bit small. 33's would probably look better.

The door panels were both in pretty bad shape, so stripping sanding and painting was in order. Also added new door latch cups, arm rests and window handle knobs from Tom's.

I really wanted to get the Duff 3 spd floor shifter in today but looks like I'm missing a few parts. I got it used and the seller is looking to see if he still has them. I may have to fab a bracket if he doesn't have them.

Next is front flares and maybe the roll bar.

 

[fordfan]

Looks great Gary! I can tell you are having fun too...

 

[JeffG]

Looking good Gary! Its amazing how tidying up a few areas like removing the dashpad and getting new door parts really adds a good look. You plan on driving it to the next meeting on Jan 19?

 

[Scoop]

Looking good Gary! Its amazing how tidying up a few areas like removing the dashpad and getting new door parts really adds a good look. You plan on driving it to the next meeting on Jan 19?

Yes, that's the goal! ;D

 

[T-Bird]

The Patina on the paint looks really good. I'd just clear coat that and drive it.

 

[Scoop]

I got the front flares on today. The flares give it a more finished look compared to the rough cut fenders.

I started working on the roll bar today - removing the wrapped padding - but it turned out the bar was tweaked and not usable. So now I need to find a roll bar. I'm going to run a hard top so I just want a single hoop bar. Does anyone make a reproduction Stroppe roll bar? They are kind of cool and a bit different.

 

[Howard2x4x4]

That's a dandy buggy! Well done Scoop!

 

[sprdv1]

Nice work sir....

 

[toddz69]

Does anyone make a reproduction Stroppe roll bar? They are kind of cool and a bit different.

Not that I'm aware of - might check with Andrew for sure. I agree that a Stroppe bar would be a neat addition to this rig.

Todd Z.

 

[fordfan]

Does anyone make a reproduction Stroppe roll bar? They are kind of cool and a bit different.

The original Stroppe roll bars were made of DOM and the way they were bolted to the body tub at the top of the quarter and floor and the rear bar bolted at the rear crossmember and the top of the quarter, they add a lot of strength to the body tub. They even make the doors close better because of the extra support to the striker post. The hard part of reproducing them is they have to fit the tub so accurately!

 

[toddz69]

The original Stroppe roll bars were made of DOM and the way they were bolted to the body tub at the top of the quarter and floor and the rear bar bolted at the rear crossmember and the top of the quarter, they add a lot of strength to the body tub. They even make the doors close better because of the extra support to the striker post. The hard part of reproducing them is they have to fit the tub so accurately!

And if I recall what Broncojack told me, they use an amazing 26 bolts to attach to the body! The closer you look, the more you realize ol' Bill knew what he was doing with things like those bars. Mounting plates attaching in multiple planes, tabs attaching to the body in multiple locations - all good stuff, and like you say, it seems to really strengthen the body tub. I wanted some of the same features on my custom cage 10 years ago and there was apparently a misunderstanding between my fabricator and I because he didn't add them - one of my only regrets.

Todd Z.

 

[Scoop]

Found this:

Stroppe Factory Replica Roll Bar Kit

$379 with free shipping and DOM upgrade is $80. Anybody familiar with this vendor - Extreme Custom Fabrication in Dubuque IA?

 

[toddz69]

I couldn't find any specific info on their website or FB page except one reference to "Mike". I feel like maybe it's Mike Kirkus, who had Complete Off Road in Illinois (I think) but I'm not sure. To me, that cage might capture the look, but not the features of the originals: no mounting plates to bolt to multiple planes, no tabs to tie into the quarter panels and I'm not crazy about a sleeve on the main hoop.

Todd Z.