Separating Cylinder Head help

[DrDanWWW]

Well, I bought a late 200: E1BE 6015 BB. I believe I will just use the head and not attempt to tackle changing out the bell, clutch, flywheel, starter - bc it has the lower starter. I will have the head rebuilt.

So... The last time I removed a cylinder head was 40 yrs ago! Do I have to remove the push rods before I lift off the head? Or can I just unbolt the head and yank it off?

Any other BIG mistakes I can avoid??

BTW, my EB is '66/170 = simple. Man, does that 1981-3 engine have a lot of emissions crapola on it. Anybody need any of it?

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would remove the rocker arm shaft and the push rods.
The early engines came with the desirable adjustable rocker arms and the cupped push rods.
I would keep the 200 take off parts like that on the shelf. The distributor is better than the old one, but you need a matching carb.
Who knows, you may decide to rebuild the 200 like I did.
Visit Ford six.com to get the most out of your engine. Good luck

 

[Bitch'nBronco]

Drain as much coolant as possible, not necessary but it'll save you from dumping a bunch on the floor and in the cyls when you pull the head.

 

[DrDanWWW]

Good tips! Thanks.
And, just so everyone knows I am doing a real engine teardown, i just busted off a deep exhaust manifold bolt. Any new miraculous ways to extract a broken off bolt?

 

[Speedrdr]

LOTS of penetrating oil (Kroil comes to mind) and drill bolt and try an ease-out. Best case, it turns the broken bolt out.

Randy

 

[m_m70]

is it broken flush with the head, sticking out or down inside the bolt hole??

 

[DrDanWWW]

Just down inside - probably right where the threads start. Do you have an idea? It's a long one. I have at least 2" of bolt in there. I don't have a welder. I was just going to drill it, use an extractor, and a propane torch. I have two more bolts that are rounding off.

 

[73azbronco]

penetrating oil, heat, hammer. Might even try tightening JUST A LITTLe, which might break the rust free.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, it will be easier to work on the broken bolt with the head on the work bench. We've all been there. Be very careful with the end bolts that pass through the flange. I have a ruined head because an ear is broken off. Good luck

 

[Timmy390]

Hi, it will be easier to work on the broken bolt with the head on the work bench.

This ^^^^^

Tim

 

[DrDanWWW]

Helpful, thanks. The flanges came loose. It is those four center long bolts. I have the engine on a stand - it's not too difficult to line up.

 

[m_m70]

if the bolt is broken inside the head I would suggest all of the above (penetrating oil and heat) and use a bushing inside the hole (like 1/4" OD with 3/16" ID) to center the drill (once pilot hole is drilled, step up to 1/4" drill). Be extremely careful if using an easy out. If it breaks off it's not an easy fix......

 

[Timmy390]

Use a very very sharp pointed punch. Then drill small and go bitter and bigger. Take your time.

The more you can drill out the better the "extractor" will work.

Working on LS engines I see this on 60% of them. I refuse to do it because I have a terrible track record but my buddy that I help....he's a pro and follows the above and it works every time.

Tim

 

[DrDanWWW]

I got the cylinder head off after drilling out the bolt/stud. This E0BE exhaust manifold has three studs because the emissions component on the exhaust makes it impossible to get a bolt in there. Nuts helped. I used a cut off wheel to cut off the nut. Thanks again for the suggestions. The head is already at the shop being rebuilt.

Now I have a short block E1BE engine for anyone who wants it.