Set 20 bearing dependability

[Yeller]

My experience with the famous Set 20 axle bearing leaves a lot to be desired. I've seen countless failures, leaks, retainer failures, bearings get hot and have the axle break at the flange (at 70mph this will cause an underpants change when it stops), all sorts of things happen. To me they are not that dependable unless on a stock bronco or car but even then they seem fairly failure prone after 50,000 miles. What have your experiences been?


This is a loaded question, I've got a few projects coming that will be in the 2800-3500# axle weight category. Should a Set 20 be acceptable or should the extra dollars be spent on a full float conversion? I say full float conversion but am I just being clouded by historical events creating some paranoia?

 

[Rustytruck]

Haven't these bearings been in use since 1978? they were used in F150 and the e-series vans weren't they? I only used the stock Bronco ball bearings and tires up to 33". Are the tapered bearings failures attributed to not removing the inner axle seals? do you add extra gear oil to lube them or is that done when the truck is turning and or canted in some way? you never want bearings to run hot so that problem needs to be rectified
What is used in the ford explorer axles?
If breakage is iminate and risking getting stranded out in the middle of nowhere it would be prudent to upgrade higher than the risk. this might be worth a call to Currie enterprises. I think this is a problem when your running 100 to 150 pound tires and wheels some people are running.

 

[WILDHORSES]

Hi Steve, Set 20 is a staple item here. Not many failures selling literally thousands of them. Now you have me curious what type rigs are having trouble with these? Tire size? I'm all for going to a full float. Short of that what option do you have? Stock ball bearing, Set 20, full float. Is there something else out there I'm missing? We do get the occasional leaker which is usually fixed with a second stab at it and silicone. There is probably a cut off for the Set 20 with tire size but we consistently run them with 36-38s. My .02 is they are very dependable but you can't go wrong with some bigger bolder 1 ton stuff.



Jim

 

[toddz69]

My experience with the famous Set 20 axle bearing leaves a lot to be desired. I've seen countless failures, leaks, retainer failures, bearings get hot and have the axle break at the flange (at 70mph this will cause an underpants change when it stops), all sorts of things happen. To me they are not that dependable unless on a stock bronco or car but even then they seem fairly failure prone after 50,000 miles. What have your experiences been?


This is a loaded question, I've got a few projects coming that will be in the 2800-3500# axle weight category. Should a Set 20 be acceptable or should the extra dollars be spent on a full float conversion? I say full float conversion but am I just being clouded by historical events creating some paranoia?

I've run SET20s now for almost 30 years without any failures but I don't run them near as hard off-road or with as large a tires as you do. But I do drive a lot of highway miles which can heat them up.

My bearing leaked in my brand new Currie housing almost 20 years ago but some hylomar solved the problem. Started leaking again a few years ago so I had to re-seal it but that's about the only problems I've ever had.

I wish that someone made a decently priced FF that incorporated a set of discs with a good parking brake. Currie's JK-based stuff seems good for what I need but man is it pricey.

Todd Z.

 

[Apogee]

In my experience, the SET20 tapered roller bearings tend to be sensitive to the level of preload placed on them by the retainer. Too little and you get slop, rapid bearing wear and oil leaks. Too much preload and you get excessive heat, short bearing life and oil leakage once the bearing fails. There's a Goldilocks zone for preload on the external oil seal, and for my applications I've found that to be .030" to .045" of "crush" or preload on the external oil seal. I've never run a SET20 with an inner seal and packed with grease, so I can't comment on that.

Due to the preload concerns, it seems like most of the leak issues I contend with have been caused in part by a disc brake conversion that doesn't properly preload the axle bearing. The outer rubber skirt on the external oil seal must pucker outwards into the housing end like a bellows, otherwise they do tend to leak. Axial scarring in the housing end due to previously stuck/corroded bearings also allows for a direct path for oil to leak, and the seal isn't compliant enough to handle that, hence the prevalence of RTV in some applications.

At the end of the day, full-float has it's own issues to contend with, but the parts will certainly provide for a stronger and more rigid solution than any semi-float axle combination regardless of bearing type.

Tobin

 

[Madgyver]

i'm running them. changed once, probably 12 years ago. 37"s here

 

[Yeller]

Hi Steve, Set 20 is a staple item here. Not many failures selling literally thousands of them. Now you have me curious what type rigs are having trouble with these? Tire size? I'm all for going to a full float. Short of that what option do you have? Stock ball bearing, Set 20, full float. Is there something else out there I'm missing? We do get the occasional leaker which is usually fixed with a second stab at it and silicone. There is probably a cut off for the Set 20 with tire size but we consistently run them with 36-38s. My .02 is they are very dependable but you can't go wrong with some bigger bolder 1 ton stuff.



Jim

Jim, I've had issues with tires as small as 25" and as large as 39".

The small ones were on a 2200# road track car. The car was not used for "racing" but was driven like a race car on track days. The 1st failures were with the ball bearing units, the axle supplier (very popular and reputable) said we were over side loading the bearing in the corners, which I don't doubt the car was seeing close to 2g's consistently. Went to set 20's as recommended, were always battling leaks and or pushing the retainer out, which destroyed the brakes. Manufacturer warranted them no improvement. changed from the 9" to an 8.8 and no more issues.

We had them for a time on our promod crawler, 3300# car 37's and we were crushing the retainer/seal. We were changing them after every event. Built a FF and over 12 years later is still running.

the road failures have been on 35's on bronco's and f150's. All of those guys that were experiencing issues are now all FF.

I may just hang with a bunch of Neanderthals that are just brutal on equipment, I know if it was that bad all of the time no one would run them. like I said I may just be jaded by a string of circumstances.

I've run SET20s now for almost 30 years without any failures but I don't run them near as hard off-road or with as large a tires as you do. But I do drive a lot of highway miles which can heat them up.

My bearing leaked in my brand new Currie housing almost 20 years ago but some hylomar solved the problem. Started leaking again a few years ago so I had to re-seal it but that's about the only problems I've ever had.

I wish that someone made a decently priced FF that incorporated a set of discs with a good parking brake. Currie's JK-based stuff seems good for what I need but man is it pricey.

Todd Z.

I'm with you Todd, the lack of reasonable options is difficult to swallow. If the 2 projects I have coming up were 37" plus tires and not 33's we'd just suck it up and make them 8 lug with later model HD pick up rear axles. Just hard to justify on a <5500 pound truck that does occasional lightish towing pulling a bronco and still offroads so the ground clearance and weight penalty is an issue.

Todd, FYI Solid now offers a 14 bolt hub that is 5x5.5 that should accept explorer brakes, and spindles are available to be added to any 9".....

So I guess I'm just having a public discussion to talk through an issue, which y'll are great at, lots of experience and voices of reason here. Maybe since I have most of the parts build a semi float 9" based on a standard width F150 housing that is 35 spline, did I mention the 1st build should be well north of 400hp/450tq power;D. If it turns out to be problematic build another FF housing and sell the semi float parts, which should be easy to do. Or just build a 14b with the above mentioned hubs and shave it..... and call it done. So much to consider LOL

 

[Yeller]

While were on this subject anyone race and need a 9" 4.30 gear, 35 spline pinion, 1350 yolk, pinion support and pinion bearings? Pinion is assembled and ready to throw in a housing. I will make you a DEAL.

 

[Boss Hugg]

While were on this subject anyone race and need a 9" 4.30 gear, 35 spline pinion, 1350 yolk, pinion support and pinion bearings? Pinion is assembled and ready to throw in a housing. I will make you a DEAL.

While we're on THAT subject... I have a SD Dana 50 with 4.30 gears... Pulled it from the JY not realizing it wasn't a d60.