Single vs dual shocks

[sanndmann3]

I’m no expert but I think there’s one missing on the ride side of the pic...


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Extra shock on the drivers side because 90 percent of the time there are no passengers... duh! lol

 

[sanndmann3]

Definitely, go quality over quantity. These work nicely on ours.

Tell me more please. What terrain do you usually run?
What model # for front/rear?

Looking for something that soaks up the whoop -de -doos runnin fast in the sand...

 

[ntsqd]

If you're going to run fast in whoops and chop then a 2.0" bodied damper is not likely going to do that for very long before it overheats, even with a remote reservoir. Just not enough oil in the damper. Another issue is the valving needed to do that will need at least a 5/8" shaft diameter or you will have the very real risk of bending the shaft just from driving at speed. Go with at least a 2.5" bodied damper. Find a real damper tuner in your area and talk to them about it.

 

[swmrdrn]

And a 50 year old bronco woild be about my last choice to run fast in the whoops. That's what cheap pickups are for.

I had the 2.0 Kings valved by Down South Motorsport For use as singles and for slower speed comfort on my WH progressive springs. They were about the same money as comperable billstiens but took a month to get because they are made to order. One benefit is that they are rebuildable.

 

[68ford]

Keep in mind that no matter how many shocks or how creative you get with the valving, if you want to go fast through rough stuff you really need to just spend the money and get bypass shocks. There is no way to duplicate a variable rate/valving shock.

 

[Boss Hugg]

y'all can forget the fast whoops and stuff. I'm not racing. I'm driving on the hwy and rock crawling.

I DO appreciate all the input tho.

 

[68ford]

y'all can forget the fast whoops and stuff. I'm not racing. I'm driving on the hwy and rock crawling.

I DO appreciate all the input tho.

1 cheap soft shock per corner for a good ride and a disconnectible sway bar. By far the best you can do for street and rocks.

 

[ntsqd]

Disagree.

One Bilstein 7100 per corner, valved appropriately. Remote reservoirs if your budget allows, but not really necessary unless your fitment requires the short bodied version. Were I starting from scratch on the valving I'd order them 360/80 front and 275/78 rear. With WH having what appears to be slightly different, EB specific valving I'd order the dampers from them and eliminate the valve stack tuning.

 

[68ford]

I still am a firm believer in soft suspension with a sway bar.
I don't think it is a coincidence that almost every single production smooth riding vehicle is exactly that, soft springs and soft shocks and a sway bar to control lean. You can not control lean with shocks. You can slow down quick sway. But if you go around a freeway onramp even with stiff shock it will eventually over take the valving and lean. I've been down this road multiple times from wild horse soft springs with a 2.5 reservoir front and 2.0 rear. Then 2.5 coilover front and 2.5 smooth body rear. then coilover front and 2.5 double bypass. To where I am now. 2.5 coilover and 3.0 bypass front and 3.0 bypass rear. Bypassing a lot of oil at ride height so it simulates a very soft shock at ride height. Only 200 over 200lb front coils and long soft overloaded rear leafs. Trust when I say friends say the bronco now rides nicer than a 7 series BMW.

 

[JWMcCrary]

I started out with a suspension kit that had duel shocks front and rear. I switched the front to a single Bilstein when I changed the radius arms. A few years later I changed the rear to a single Bilstein and that's where I saw the most improvement for my use. I'll never spend the money for dual shocks again.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't disagree that the soft springs and a sway-bar are the best path forward. I disagree on the cheap shocks. Cheap shocks are exactly that and using them short-changes the rest of the suspension system.

A soft suspension with good dampers on the street allows the tire to track the bump and not upset the chassis in the process. Cheap shocks can't do this.

I see 347 stroker engines in Broncos, driving 4 grand+ worth of built axles, and then Schlep Boys/VatoZone/O'Really's special shocks. They built the best they could afford for an engine, and axles. And completely missed the boat on building a decent suspension. And then wonder why I can go 70+ on the fwy with one finger on the wheel where anything over 45 terrifies them.

 

[Boss Hugg]

And then wonder why I can go 70+ on the fwy with one finger on the wheel where anything over 45 terrifies them.

I've been running cheap Monroe's since I started driving it and I've felt good at 70mph. I've always wondered how these shocks would compare with even cheaper store brands.

 

[ntsqd]

You've clearly missed my point.

 

[Boss Hugg]

You've clearly missed my point.

No. I'm just saying I've been fine with my cheap Monroe's. Could it be worse with a little cheaper shock?

I'm certainly going to spend the coin for bilsteins because of what I've read and heard from others. I'm looking forward to seeying how much better the Bilstein 5100s are going to be for me than the Monroe's.

 

[DirtDonk]

I missed if you said, but are you considering 5100's, or one of the other models Bilstein shocks (like 7100 for instance) instead?
Cost differences are pretty high, so I was assuming you were just talking 5100's at least for now.

I've set up more than a few customers with dual 5100's, but as far as I remember have not had any feedback yet from their use.
Some were right off the shelf with standard valving, while others were chosen for having slightly lighter valving to work better in a dual-shock application.
But duals are duals, and still cost twice as much, which is what you were trying to avoid right from the beginning of this discussion.

My question then, pertains to valving vs vehicle setup. Are you running heavy?
In other words, do you have a front winch bumper and winch? Tall suspension? Stiff suspension? Or do you just like to race around a lot in your Bronco?
If yes to some or all of those, the standard front 5100's might be too light for you on the street. Perfectly fine on the trails most likely, but too light on the street and allow a little (or a lot depending on your setup and habits) extra bounce here and there.

I can attest personally that they still have a nice solid feel to them, and ride quality is as good as I'd hoped. But with my winch and bumper the front just feels a tiny bit soft. Like it allows a little bit of wallow now and then under certain road conditions.
When it comes to it, I don't feel like I have to change them right away, or that they're dangerous by any stretch of the imagination. But I might still try a stiffer valved version later. Or maybe even go duals someday like I'd always planned in the old days.

Just something else to mull over before spending your hard earned money.

Paul

 

[68ford]

If a single 5100 is too soft and letting the truck feeling it is bouncing on the street, it is totally over sprung. 1 5100 shock should be more than enough on the street in a 4000 pound bronco.
But this brings up another issue. I believe 100% that every aftermarket leaf spring built for an EB is too stiff. They have to be stiff enough to work for a guy with no top, backseat, spare tire and only 1 stock fuel tank, all while working for a guy with a full.hard top, extra crap, 2 big tanks, full size spare on a heavy bumper and a gas can or two.
They only ride decent on the fully loaded vehicles.
Unless you're the loaded guy, I am positive your rear springs are way too stiff. Most fronts as well especially over 3.5 lift.

 

[68ford]

Example: my rear leafs are softer than all bronco leafs, I run soft valving at ride height and my EB weighs 5200 pound and is 600 to 700 pound hevier on the rear than front depending on how full my 50 gal tank is. Never feels bouncy. Because I'm not over shocked compensating for also being over sprung.

 

[DirtDonk]

I know I've seen some of the info in your build, but what shocks are you running, and what are your valving numbers? Just so we're all on the same page.

I'm sure it's true that my front springs are a little stiffer than they would normally be in the first inch or so of travel, because my heave bumper combo has used up most of the soft rate coils just sitting static. So from nice and squishy to fairly stiff is my life right now.

Paul

 

[68ford]

Rear has Ford ranger Deaver race pack 10 leaf pack. 12in or so longer than stock so the progress and get stiffer over a greater distance. But to keep it simple, they are soft. Shock is a 3.0 dia 16in stroke 3 tube bypass. .012 compression .010 rebound. Compression tube active at ride height almost completely opened as well as rebound tube.

Front is 2.5 dia 14 stroke coilover .010 compression .008 rebound. Both compression and rebound I believe is still too stiff. Going to put a popoff valve in for rebound and .008 onto the compression side of the piston.
Bypass is a 3.0 dia 14 stroke 5 tube bypass. .012 compression .010 rebound. All tubes open all the way. The 2 rebound tubes are both active at ride height so it flows a lot of oil around the piston.

Coils are 200 over 200

 

[68ford]

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