Son of a motherless goat!!

[gnpenning]

Had good luck with both ways. Thought there might be more that have tried it. Tried the wax first. Tried the crayon when I couldn't find any wax. Kids didn't even miss them.

 

[Pedestrian]

Welding is the only method I have found to work consistantly with corroded bolts.

 

[bronco_daddy]

Mig welder?

OK...all of you have provided excellent tips and techniques...a great resource CB is and all its members

Harbor Freight has a 90a Wire feed Welder...$100...write ups are decent and appears perfect for this little task and typical Bronco stuff minus heavy metal welding...

The addition of Lincoln .35 wire w/solder seems to be a great setup for it and here is my reasoning:

Timing Cover $65 JBG
Seal $5.00 JBG
Oil Pan Gasket $15.00 JBG
Propane Torch Set $65.00
Time...I have none to "F" around with this plus the worry of the timing cover bolts, though I just bought a new Cloyes Billet Timing Chain and Gears for it while it was open.

So, going the Wire Feed route I "technically" save a chunk of change and time "in theory" and I have a new play toy also

Bob-

 

[DuctTape]

OK...all of you have provided excellent tips and techniques...a great resource CB is and all its members

Harbor Freight has a 90a Wire feed Welder...$100...write ups are decent and appears perfect for this little task and typical Bronco stuff minus heavy metal welding...

The addition of Lincoln .35 wire w/solder seems to be a great setup for it and here is my reasoning:

Timing Cover $65 JBG
Seal $5.00 JBG
Oil Pan Gasket $15.00 JBG
Propane Torch Set $65.00
Time...I have none to "F" around with this plus the worry of the timing cover bolts, though I just bought a new Cloyes Billet Timing Chain and Gears for it while it was open.

So, going the Wire Feed route I "technically" save a chunk of change and time "in theory" and I have a new play toy also

Bob-

I'm really really good at justifying new tool purchases. Good luck with the bolts, these rigs definitely aren't plug and play!

 

[bronco_daddy]

thank you...figured it is time to weld as a welder and a Bronco seem to be a necessity....then I can practice all day long at the fire station ;-)

 

[jim3326]

Harbor Freight has a 90a Wire feed Welder...$100...write ups are decent and appears perfect for this little task and typical Bronco stuff minus heavy metal welding...

I would put welding a nut to a 5/16" bolt more in the heavy welding column. You have to produce a lot of heat quickly. With the lightweight welders you don't get a lot of heat fast. It can be done but to help the welder and get better penetration, pre-heat the bolt and nut to a few hundred degrees.

Jim W.

 

[kruzer]

I had the same problem on my 83 town car that had been setting up. I had to cut the bolt bosses to get the pump off. Then used the heat method and pb blaster. it worked well. Also when I went to get new bolts and studs I found there are two odd lengths that no one had. I made one and had one that did not break. Take your time you can do it.

 

[DirtDonk]

And just wait until you do all that work on the old timing cover, or buy a new one, only to find out your new front accessory drive requires a different one!

What system are you going to be running? And does it mount up to the stock setup?
Just checkin'

Paul

 

[bronco_daddy]

Hey Paul...

Got the timing cover off, got the one bolt out with heat and PB Blaster back and forth and it came out like there was never a problem. The cover has the two remaining broken bolts in them flush to the cover, they are the top two for the water pump.

Accessories? The only thing I am doing is putting an RJM 165a Alt in with their weatherpak and a new alternator bracket setup. The EB came with a dual crankshaft pulley and I bought the new timing cover from your boys at Wild Horse (so if there is a problem I can nag you to death like an old wife with hairy moles on her chin) so I am not expecting any issues when it goes back together.. got the new case seal, gaskets, oil pan gaskets, new water pump, new hoses, thermostat...while I was right there , changing out the oil pressure switch, timing chain.....

Bob-

 

[Rustytruck]

When you put this all back together put a thin coat of silicone on the threads and shanks of all thes bollts it will stop the bolts from coroading into the cover and act as antisieze on the bolts. Save alot of headaches later.

 

[bronco_daddy]

Rusty....

Anytime I build something, antisieze goes on...father owned a bunch of diesel repair shops and he lived by that

 

[Pa PITT]

That mixture is 50% 50% of ATF & Acetone ..Heat from welding the nut on will most likely do it .. But man you need to be a goo welder.

 

[DirtDonk]

Funny thing about anti-seize and fathers. A little bit goes such a long way, I'm still using the can my dad bought in the sixties!
I'm at about a half a can now, and I use it quite a bit.

I get a bigger kick every year now, when pulling out some tool or other garage implement that my dad used, or his dad before him used. My favorite knife is still the one that his dad had custom made by a knife-maker in Arkansas in about 'ought-eight or so.
Fancy materials were not so readily available back then, so it was forged from a file! Cool stuff.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Accessories? The only thing I am doing is putting an RJM 165a Alt in with their weatherpak and a new alternator bracket setup.

Ok, gotcha. But this next statement had me thinking you were about to install some fancy-schmancy front drive system.

So today I decided to put in my 3G alternator that I have had sitting in its box for 6 months....the EB has AC so I needed to pull the double bracket as I have a new billet system to install also.

What billet system are you going to install?

Paul

 

[ryansbronco]

When you put this all back together put a thin coat of silicone on the threads and shanks of all thes bollts it will stop the bolts from coroading into the cover and act as antisieze on the bolts. Save alot of headaches later.

I use HighTac on the paper seals for the water pump and timing chain
then rtv on the bolts that go into water jackets
on the oil pan go for the one piece. It will be much easier and I have never had on leak.

 

[garberz]

I use HighTac on the paper seals for the water pump and timing chain
then rtv on the bolts that go into water jackets
on the oil pan go for the one piece. It will be much easier and I have never had on leak.

I didn't pull the pan when I did my timing chain. I cut the front of the pan gasket off. I bought a new POS cork oil pan gasket and just used the portion that goes underneath timing chain cover, weatherstrip adhesive to pan and a little RTV in the corners. Leak free.

Mark

 

[bronco_daddy]

gasket set had the replacement pieces for the pan, just the areas that go under the timing cover...nice set

I have always used gaska-cinch when setting my gaskets...100s of motors I have built on that. Definitely the RTV on the oil pan corners and timing case..

I left the pan up, the only problem I see is setting the timing case to the pan as its a tight fit with the pan up and probability of making a bad silicone seal is my concern...will see on a dry fit.

Paul...the billet is for the 3G alt brackets..no pulleys. I am starting to hate all of this as the more time I spend, the more I am yanking stuff out to paint or replace and the wife is getting a bit pissed...so is the UPS guy...sons bedroom is filled with new stuff to put on. I am changing out brackets as the EB came with AC and the alt and compressor shared a common bracket. I am ditching the AC so I wanted a cleaner setup for the bracket.

Hell, if all this occurred just doing the alternator, hate to see what will occur when I do the hydroboost I have sitting all nice and powder coated....

Question: how big of a PIA is it to rebuild the stock PS box? I am going to rebuild the steering column as it has a little play in it and the box has a but of slack before the pitman arm starts to move. I do need to deal with the steering shaft as you know Paul, it is either replace the u-joint of just dump the whole shaft and go with a double joint system and ditch the rag joint also.

I should just start on the hydroboost while I have half the engine compartment out...this domino effect is getting out of hand but the EB is well over half all new now...just want it super safe for my youngest son to take back and forth to school and then later move him to a pickup truck for his motorcycles and then Daddy takes total possession of the EB

Bob-

 

[DirtDonk]

Never done a PS box myself, but plenty here have and have reported that it's not that big a deal.
The only time it seems to get expensive is when you have to replace the big parts. Input shafts and/or sector shafts get expensive.
Funny, but when I rebuilt my original manual steering box the first time, it cost half-again more just for the sector shaft than it did to buy a whole new box from Ford! Go figure...

Give it a shot and see what you think. Or at least wait for some others who've done it to chime in. But other than the money, sending it off to one of the rebuilders isn't that traumatic.

Paul
Paul