Steering fluid to radiator and hydroboost brakes

[broncnaz]

Just add your cooler and possibly change the fluid if it looks discolored or smells burnt. the power steering system is pretty basic really just seals to worry about. But over time heat kills seals. Hydraulic systems build heat no matter what but to much is not good in any case.
If you build lots of heat and ended up running it through your radiator then your adding that heat to your cooling system and may end up with engine temp issues.

 

[RajinCajun]

But plumbing the entire set up for $50? Good luck doing another one that cheap. WH's sells 2 fittings w/3' of hose for $45. That's a better deal than my local supply house. That type of hose is Air/Brake hose for big trucks. It's $7 a ft. and the reusable fittings are now $20 ea. I used 7' of hose and four fittings for my two HP hoses. $130. Still need to plumb the low pressure side. I'm not bitching about the cost. Just be realistic about what your going to spend. These types of hoses will last about forever if they're not rubbing on anything. And being able to make corrects lengths is a plus. The reason I posted WH's link in post #2 is because that's (IMO) the best type of hose and fittings to use, and WH's offering these parts, makes it's simple to purchase the correct stuff.

I spent $450 to plumb my entire hydro boost conversion. A cheap cooler, male AN fittings for the Hydroboost, pump and steering box. HP hose, reusable AN fittings, low pressure hose, a Tee, hose clamps, and brake line tubing and fittings. Oh, I almost forgot about the $45 adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. It works awesome, one of the best mods I have done. Worth every penny. Makes it so nice to drive. Just be prepared to spend a bit of money to make it right.

Mark

We did two rigs for $145 with a 6-8' piece of hose, and a few spare fittings left over (straight fittings only, the 90's and 45's were to high to keep as a spare). It was done two weeks ago here in Abilene. I did only use one 90 fitting and the others were straight, that was a huge help because the 90's listed at $20. I admit that I already had a Saginaw pump, a cooler, and a reservoir that had the 2nd return ready. I had to build two new pressure lines and one return line. The two pressure lines from the pump to the hyd boost, then pump to box, and a short piece of push-lock for the return from the hyd boost to the reservoir was right at $50.

 

[Toddpole]

Thanks this is great to hear! I would love to have the part numbers if it's not too much trouble. That's awesome to hear you did all the lines for like $50. One hose on WH was like $45 so I was considering the cost there.

I'm still going to have drums in the back (for now) but I figure triple brake pressure will be a huge improvement no matter what I have!

We built all the lines for hydroboost and steering for about what RaginCajun mentioned. He and I spent $140 and had almost as much left over for spares as what it took to build the hoses.
The hose we used, that takes reusable ends, is an SAE 100R5 one wire cloth covered hose. -6 size has a working pressure of 2250psi with a minimum burst of 9000psi. Goodyear part #GR5-06. Gates part #6C5C. If you're going to use AN/JIC fittings, which I highly recommend, you'll need fittings for your hose that have an FJ designation. I use Parker. Their part # for a straight fitting is BN06-06FJ. 45* is BN06-06FJ45T. 90* BN06-06FJ90T. You'll need adapters to connect the hose fitting to the pump/hydroboost/steering box. Most of those are inverted flare or bump tube to AN/JIC.
Hose - Goodyear GR5-06
Gates 6C5C
Fittings - Str. - Parker BN06-06FJ
Gates 06C5-06FJX (not positive on the Gates numbers. I couldn't find anything online. Your hose supplier should know what you need.)
45* - Parker BN06-06FJ45T
Gates 06C5-06FJX45
Hope this helps. I tend to ramble and be confusing.
PM me if you have any questions.
Todd

 

[jlylec]

Man this is awesome info. Thank you! If you don't mind I may hit you up in a week or so when I'm ready to order all of this stuff.

 

[pbwcr]

A pump that gets that hot will not be fixed with a cooler. Get a new pump or box because what you have has a serious problems.
PW
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Message got cut off, but when in the mountains last weekend my power steering fluid was boiling. The Saginaw pump overflowed from expansion and my steering got really fatigued. I could spritz water on the pump and it instantly boiled so I'd call that HOT! Hopefully it's not the product of something else, but I have NO cooler on there now so I'm hoping adding this will fix it. I'm planning on powering hydroboost brakes with the same Saginaw pump too so I may go a little bigger on the cooler than I otherwise would.

 

[Broncobowsher]

The pump output need high pressure fittings. The hydroboost to steering gear needs high pressure. The rest of it is all returns and low pressure is a lot easier to work with and a lot less expensive.

Of the two coolers listed above, the B&M is the better choice.

99% of the fluid flow comes out of the steering gear box. That is where the cooler should go. Some hydroboost units are sensitive to restriction on the low pressure side, the flow out that hose is so minimal it doesn't need a cooler. Typically the cooler can add enough restriction to cause issues so that is another reason to skip the cooler.

 

[bronconut73]

The pump output need high pressure fittings. The hydroboost to steering gear needs high pressure. The rest of it is all returns and low pressure is a lot easier to work with and a lot less expensive.

Of the two coolers listed above, the B&M is the better choice.

99% of the fluid flow comes out of the steering gear box. That is where the cooler should go. Some hydroboost units are sensitive to restriction on the low pressure side, the flow out that hose is so minimal it doesn't need a cooler. Typically the cooler can add enough restriction to cause issues so that is another reason to skip the cooler.

Hmmmm....restriction....does that mean the B&M stacked plate cooler is better since its design will reduce restriction through the cooler or is there more to it than that?
In other words is there a cooler that can be used that will induce so little restriction that it will be OK or not?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Hmmmm....restriction....does that mean the B&M stacked plate cooler is better since its design will reduce restriction through the cooler or is there more to it than that?
In other words is there a cooler that can be used that will induce so little restriction that it will be OK or not?

No point in it. Just put the low pressure return off the hydroboost straight into the pump reservoir and be done with it. That's why you see people looking for the Saginaw pumps with 2 return fittings. Because it is the right way to do it.

 

[broncnaz]

As long as the cooler tube size is equal to or greater than your return line size you will be fine. The other added benefit of adding a cooler is extra oil capacity which helps keep temps a little lower in itself.

 

[jlylec]

As long as the cooler tube size is equal to or greater than your return line size you will be fine. The other added benefit of adding a cooler is extra oil capacity which helps keep temps a little lower in itself.

Yeah this is what I was thinking. It can't hurt as long as the cooler itself doesn't otherwise negatively affect the system.

 

[welndmn]

Hmmmm....restriction....does that mean the B&M stacked plate cooler is better since its design will reduce restriction through the cooler or is there more to it than that?
In other words is there a cooler that can be used that will induce so little restriction that it will be OK or not?

In the steering system, tube and fin coolers are better.
Look at the fluid coolers PSC sells, that style has been found the best for steering.