Steering Wheel Angle / Column U-Joints

[pcf_mark]

First question for anyone who uses aftermarket solid u-joints in their steering column. I have replaced my lower shaft ages ago with Flaming River stainless steel joints and shaft. Works great, looks great.

Do you find they transmit a whole lot of vibration through the steering wheel? When I had the stock tires it was ok but now that I have much larger tires the wheel is alive with a slight but noticeable tremor at all times.

Second question - how do you adjust the steering linkage to center the wheel? On a traditional tie rod front end you can move each end a little at a time and center the wheel while keeping the toe setting. On our trucks this is not an option because if you twist the drag link you can adjust tow in and out but not relative to the steering linkage. The link between the steering box and drag link would need an adjustable feature. Do I take my wheel off or pull the column out and move it over a spline or two where it goes into the u-joint? Or an I just missing something here?

 

[bmc69]

You need an adjustable drag link to re-center the steering for the same reason you need an adjustable track bar, or relocated track bar mounts, to re-center the entire axle.. Putting both on the '68 project in our shop right now.

I use the complete Borgeson u-joint steering shafts in all my rigs. Can't say I've noticed an increase in any vibration being transmitted..

 

[pcf_mark]

At least I now know it is not just me. I looked at it for a good 20 minutes and said "nah can't be done down here".

Maybe I'm over sensitive to the vibration but it does exist. I'll try to shoot a video. Is your column solid mounted also? I switched to a van column when I went A/T and just bolted it right to the bottom of the dash. Maybe I need some bushings to absorb the vibration from the steering box?

Thanks!

 

[DirtDonk]

It definitely exists. That's the whole point (or at least most of it) of a rag-joint as a substitute for solid joints in factory shafts with power steering.
Some of it is tires, some of it is hydraulic happenings in a power assist system. Perhaps you're getting more sensitized to it, or perhaps your power steering system is aging a little and producing slightly more vibration. Or it could be as simple as the tires now have some miles on them and are showing it in the form of more road harmonics making their way up through the shaft.
Mine is not bad (hardly noticeable in fact), but that's likely because it's all practically brand new. But I do get more road vibes showing up at the top end now that the tires are wearing funky.

Ford should definitely have used an adjustable draglink I think. But they were being simple and short-termed and inexpensive-minded so it didn't happen.
The dropped pitman arms and dropped trackbar brackets do serve to help re-center things, but they're imperfect and every Bronco is different.
So the adjustable bars are pretty much a necessity over the long haul for keeping the system fine-tuned.
And you can even move your pitman arm one spline either way, without greatly effecting your turning ability. It's not optimal perhaps, but even Ford used a different position over the years.
Early rigs (up to late '73-ish maybe?) had their pitman arms pointed 1 spline (or 10°) to the driver's side. Later rigs had it pointed straight back. In lieu of an adjuster you could maybe find success that way.
But adjustable is really the only "best" way to go now that they're readily available and you don't have to custom make one anymore like I did. Was not easy finding someone that would do it once they heard it was for steering linkage!

Paul

 

[WILDHORSES]

Whatever is going on with the front tires/wheels especially the balance can usually be felt in the steering wheel. I was reminded of this last week when we drove a few hundred miles on a trip. I could feel the shake, vibration in the steering wheel. Before I left I swapped out tires/wheel. 10 times better with different tires. I have also noticed this type of vibration is much more likley the larger the tires are.

As for steering wheel centering IFFFF you have equal turning right to left I would remove and reposition the wheel itself. Good luck with the project.

Jim

 

[Prime Time]

for what its worth , my Wrangler I recently got ( Girly car) developed a vibration I felt up thru the wheel and also had a funny bounce / roll when going over bumps , kinda felt like alignment or balancing issue , it came with cooper tires that looked square , I replaced them with new radials and everything cleared right up , I would guess not having a rag joint would transmit more vibration , I vote for pulling the wheel off and centering it that way , just my .02cents

 

[DirtDonk]

When work has been done to the system, or a lift has been installed, sometimes re-orienting the steering wheel is the only way to get it done. But the most important aspect of all this is the on-center position of the steering box. So I always recommend centering the box first, then the wheel off of that.

Paul

 

[bronconut73]

My steering had a little vibration through it.
It turned out to be my Saginaw pump. Always thought it was some thing else.
But when I did the Explorer Serp swap my steering immediately became smooth as glass.
So my WH slip shaft with u-joints was not the culprit, my Saginaw box was.....weird huh?

 

[pcf_mark]

I was thinking the pump may be part of the problem. I should include these is with new steel wheels and tires and all new bushings, tie rods and shocks. It is not like a severe issue or fatiguing vibration it is simply more "lively" than other classic cars I have driven.

Sometimes my pump will miss a beat - I'll be turning and I will hear it groan and have reduced boost. The box was rebuilt in the last 6 months so that is not it. The pump is an Explorer unit I pulled from a yard along with the serpentine.