steps getting the cab lined...

[komodo72]

I'm in the process of stripping out everything from the inside of the bronco so i can get it line-xd. and i was wondering to help cut down on price and stuff what kind of prep work can i do? also do they just line it over all the holes for the bolts and ect. d@mn i had another question about this but i forget now.

 

[JokerOfDeception]

the guy i took it to didnt give a rats izzass haha i just ripped tore and pulled everything out, sanded it a lilttle bit, po15'd it then took it to em with nothing but one seat in it. still 500 bones tho, some guys got it on here for 4 something and a reach around i think.

 

[LSUpete]

If you're doing all of the prep work yourself, why not just use Durabak and apply it yourself? You'll save at least $300.00!!

 

[Guest]

You know, I was wondering about liners myself. Lets hear it from the people who did did the roll on liner. let us know about the brands you guys used and any tips you guys learned on the way.

 

[Sharkman]

My cousin did a roll on job, I guess he did not prep well enough and it is starting to peel off and bubble in a couple of places. Looked ok at first but 6 months later it looks like Doo Doo.<br> I did the gator guard in my P/U and I am very happy with it. I'll be putting it in my 74 Bronco as well.<br><br>Steve

 

[rflud]

Here's the prep you can do before you go to get it LineX'd:<br><br>1. Remove everthing you can from the inside.<br>2. Put masking tape over all the holes you want covered. This is what they do and this will ensure that they don't forget to cover any holes.<br><br>Putting Por 15 on before you LineX is a waste of time and money. They take a sanding disc to the area before they apply the LineX. Besides, the LineX is air and water tight so it won't be rusting from that side anyway.<br><br>I paid $467 (including tax). It was well worth it. I took it down and it was done 1 hour later. Leaving me time to do other things. And if you have any trouble with it you should be able to take it back to them for repair.<br><br>Go for it, you won't regret it.

 

[MattJM]

I prepped mine myself and it cost me $300 to get it sprayed. I didn't do any taping, they did that. But I did take everything out and took a sanding disc to it down to the bare metal inside the whole tub. I didn't let it sit long though after I sanded. Took it straight there and drove it sitting on a toolbox...got a lot of weird looks. Turned out great.

 

[Nuke]

[quote author=MattJM link=board=5;threadid=14014;start=0#105502 date=1044476853]<br>I prepped mine myself and it cost me $300 to get it sprayed. I didn't do any taping, they did that. But I did take everything out and took a sanding disc to it down to the bare metal inside the whole tub. I didn't let it sit long though after I sanded. Took it straight there and drove it sitting on a toolbox...got a lot of weird looks. Turned out great.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Matt, were did you get it done?! And how long ago? Can anyone get it on that deal?

 

[Rustytruck]

After you strip out everything you dont want sprayed take some Tide and some stiff brushes and steel wool preferabaly the stainless type you get in the supermarket in the kitchen supplies. scrub the shoot out of the thing especially in all of the tight little corners nothing sticks to dirt and grease. in all of the bolt holes like seat belt and seat mount holes take a bolt and coat it with silicone gaskit sealer and screw it in the holes down flush and make sure there is silicone on top of the bolt too. Nothing sticks to it so after they spray the lining you can take a piece of pipe and sharpen the edge and use it like a cookie cutter and cut around the bolt then pop the plug off of the top of the bolt and unscrew the bolt and you have a clean hole and threads. It doesnt matter how much you pay if they dont do the prep work right it will peel. I was told Line-x was better because it is sprayed hot and since I work with Ureathanes I tend to believe it is better but I do not have the experience to verify that claim. Do not have your bed sprayed when it is cold it can make a difference in adheasion of the material wait until it is over 65 outside. Also think about all the little stuff that goes with the job as you may get those done free if done at the same time as the tub. Like the lower parts of the steel doors or the fiberglass inserts or the bottom of the roll bar or maybe the whole thing. Structurally it is better to spray under the roll bar as the ureathane will cushen the impact of the roll bar pads and help to keep the bar from shearing through the floor boards it will also eliminate squeeks. Someday rusty truck will get its replacement tub and for the money and work spent I will get it sprayed with line-X

 

[67ster]

I talked to the folks at Durabak , very helpful . Use soap and water , sand with 100 grit , prime bare spots, (no rustoleum) 65 degrees or better , you can roll it but they suggest a rocker shutz or undercoat gun which you can buy for less than 25 bucks . Thin with zylene about 5% . A word of caution , once you open the can , you have approx. 4 hrs. pot life . I ordered quarts so I wouldn't ruin the whole batch and would have some for future use . It cures slower than the Linex or Rhino but that is due to the thinner , they do sell an accelerator .

 

[komodo72]

geez now i find out 65 degrees or better. i already stripped everything and besides the sanding and stuff its ready to go. but its like in the 30's here so i just gotta wait awhile? is it really that bad if its cold. i guess i can wait.

 

[MattJM]

The place is called Hicks Total Performance. Its back in Mooresville. They put in stuff called speedliner.