Still no spark

[mike mac]

So I'm still at a loss as to what i burned up by leaving ignition on for several days. I replaced the coil and my pertronics magnetic pick ups. also sent my Holley 2d ecu to Holley for testing and it is ok. This is very frustrating and have traced just about every wire and ground but still no luck. Any ideas are welcome. Unless someone is in S.F. Bay Area and wants to earn a couple bucks. I'm losing my patience with it. Thanks.

 

[stock1970]

man, there has to be someone close to help you out.. good luck.. bump to the top..

 

[broncnaz]

After replacing compnents.If your igintion has power when the key is in the run position they you should have spark. Unless you fried the pertronix again.

 

[DirtDonk]

You still running the old radio noise supressor on the coil? If so, temporarily disconnect it and see if that helps.
Do you have a test light or volt meter? There are tests of course, but you gots to have the tools.

I'm not that far away, globally-speaking, but far enough to not be able to just pop on by anytime soon. Don't mind at all though, so I'll see what I can do, time-wise.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Along the lines of what broncnaz was saying, you could conceivably burned out the ignition switch. Not as likely as other things, but if it's an old, semi-worn out switch to begin with, you never know.
Also, an old and tired resistor wire (original ignition coil wire from the key), that could have failed too. If either of those happens, you won't get any power to the components you've replaced.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[SwedenBronco]

I had a bad connection in the resistance wire that runs to the electronic unit for the ignition, the wire was broken just were it went into the connector plug.

 

[mike mac]

I have a painless wiring pack with all new ignition. I've never had any prob. since I installed it 2 yrs. ago. When I first started fix i had power to fuel pump now it seems to be dead as well. Also not reading a tach. signal when cranking. Without tach. signal the ecu want send fuel. But pump should still turn on I believe. Did the entire build myself and this has got me lost. Damn electrical.

 

[broncnaz]

Got to have a bad wire somewhere. Maybe something is shorting out. If so that can fry igintions and fuel pumps so what may have been good is now bad.

 

[mike mac]

Bronco for sale!

 

[SwedenBronco]

I don't know how Painful your wiring is, but I've heard mixed experience about them. I friend of mine has one on his Corvette TPI engined CJ-3, he had to re-crimp most of the connectors to get it to work as supposed to...

 

[Viperwolf1]

Lets start at the basics. Disconnect everything from your coil except ignition power (12V) at the positive terminal. Leave the high tension wire on the coil set the end of it close to ground. Get another piece of wire and ground one end of it. Now take the other end and touch it to the negative terminal of the coil for just a second. When you pull it away you should get a spark. If you don't get a spark your coil or ignition wire is bad. Otherwise you've just ruled out the ignition wire and coil as the problem and you should then look at pertronix or any other wires that were attached to the coil.

 

[eric0o1]

if you are using one of our harnesses, do you happen to know which one? Check the coil fuse on the fuse block. It goes overlooked a lot of times because factory systems rarely had coil fuses. We implement one for 2 reasons: #1 circuit protection, #2 theft deterrent (you can pull the fuse when parked for periods of time)

If the fuse is good, then pull the fuse and check both contacts in the fuse block with the key on, one should have 12v. If one does not have 12v then there is a problem with the ignition switch.

Is the coil internally resisted or are you running the ballast resistor that came with the kit?