Stop (Brake) Light Switch bushings

[jerry]

For your reference, I include a portion of page 33-02-03 of the '70 factory service manual:

A little more background: I've done the power brake conversion, so my push rod is not exactly like this one.

The issue: If I assemble this as shown in the diagram, but do not install the 2A309 bushing - stop light operates properly.

Of course, that bushing seems like a good idea to prevent metal on metal wear, so I just installed and went to install this bushing from Tom's. With it in place, it takes up all of the gap, keeping the switch on continuously.

One idea I had (but wanted to run by the group) - shave down the flat end of the push rod a small amount, providing the necessary gap between the rod and the switch. But of course I could be missing somehing obvious too. haha

Thanks in advance!

 

[4xfun]

You might want to consider sanding the nylon bushings to reduce the thickness. Grease the bushings to make sure that every thing slides easily. Quick solution and If you screw up, you have only lost a couple of dollars. Easier than pulling off the master cylinder.

 

[ntsqd]

I've never understood how Ford expected that switch to function without a gap between the pin on the pedal and the hole in the push-rod.
Over the years I have experienced those switches getting harder and harder to actuate. Got pulled over once because light braking didn't turn on the brake lights. Had to demonstrate that the brake lights worked. Officer was puzzled until I told him that it was a Stupid Ford Trick and that I'd fix it.
I'm not a purist, any more I won't use that switch. Instead I'll use the simpler GM switch and make a bracket for it.

 

[ntsqd]

I've wondered about that, but there is nothing there to cause that rotation. Easier to just chuck it and use a simple switch that works.

 

[Oldtimer]

To clear up the confusion I caused . . . .
@ntsqd read my comment about the flat on pushrod rotating into switch to activate brake light, between when I posted it, and when I deleted it 30 seconds later, because upon reflection I realized there was nothing to cause that rotation.

 

[ntsqd]

It would be a perfectly reasonable method to activate the switch if there was something that could cause that slight rotation. Really wouldn't take much rotation.

FWI I ran the Ranchero without the bushing for nearly a decade. No abnormal or excessive wear noticed.

 

[jerry]

You might want to consider sanding the nylon bushings to reduce the thickness. Grease the bushings to make sure that every thing slides easily. Quick solution and If you screw up, you have only lost a couple of dollars. Easier than pulling off the master cylinder.

Not a bad idea. I actually got a little smarter, and purchased two of these bushings just in case.
My thought was to take my Dremel and grind down the flat end of the pushrod a hair...

 

[toddz69]

I have the same issue on my truck - I just leave that bushing out and deal with a little more clatter in the bumps so that my brake lights work.

Todd Z.

 

[ntsqd]

Can use a wave washer to put a side-load on either of the 2B129 nylon washers. That will stop the rattling.

 

[toddz69]

Can use a wave washer to put a side-load on either of the 2B129 nylon washers. That will stop the rattling.

Will give that a shot!

Todd Z.

 

[jerry]

So, I went the "unpopular route".

Started conservatively, took a little off the flat side facing the driver:

With this, I was able to get the brake switch to work correctly.

I might take another small amount off later. Right now, there is very little play when pushing the pedal (as compared to not having that 2A309 bushing installed).