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strapping and towing 101, old dog new tricks

kb6677

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There were several titles I thought of for this thread but anyway, here goes:

Thursday night a close friend and his family left the shop in TN heading to the Fall Crawl in Harlan, KY. About 3 miles after they left the shop and had just turned onto a main road they were hit head on by a drunk driver. Thankfully, they will be ok. My buddy has a broken wrist and concussion, his wife and two daughters are bruised and shaken but will be fine. The engine came back into the firewall on the pas. side which took most of the impact and hit his wife's foot. The drunk did not survive.

My friend was driving his '96 F350 crew cab 4x4 'stroke with his eb on the trailer. The truck was totaled. The bronco broke all three straps on the rear from the impact-friend figures he as going 5-15 as he held it straight and slammed on the brakes when he saw the s10 coming at him-have not heard how fast the drunk was estimated to be traveling

For years I have been a strap on each axle corner guy except when towing my tractor-it gets chains and load binders. Well, starting next trip I will have a chain around the rear axle and a load binder. I realize folks with show rigs will not want to throw a chain around the rear but trail rigs etc. fair game.

Again, thankfully, last week my buddy was moving some stuff from my garage to his new place and had a 300 gallon storage tank strapped in front of the eb. He was busy at work and did not have time to take the tank off, so the bronco crunched it and did not go through the front of the open trailer into the back of the truck.
Just passing this on fwiw, I am thankful I still have a good friend and his family around to hang out with. :)
 

bax

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Wow karl. Good to hear your friend and his family are going to be OK. I agree, a good tight chain on the rear to stop the forward load is always a good thing to have. I guess this ruined the trip to Harlan for you?
 

half cab

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I can only imagine what that S10 looks like after hitting an F350 head on...Sad to hear the drunk was killed but am glam you friend n his family is ok.

When I first started out driving a big truck yrs ago I was hauling steel and never had a chain brake or binder fail but, did hear of it and then it was probably driver fault as to not checking binder!
 
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kb6677

kb6677

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Wow karl. Good to hear your friend and his family are going to be OK. I agree, a good tight chain on the rear to stop the forward load is always a good thing to have. I guess this ruined the trip to Harlan for you?

He was still close to Nashville(home) when the accident happened so local friends picked them up today after they were checked out last night and his wrist was set. We had planned on doing a day trip tomorrow but some other things have come up. :( Looking fwd to Windrock in Nov. :)
 

fatboy

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So glad to hear about your friends and his family's minor injuries. A sad day for sure. The other stuff can be replaced, not so a person. Thanks for the reminder about not getting lazy with the straps.
 

notorious

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Glad to hear your buddy and family is OK. I was a medic for many a year just north of Nashville and I can't tell you how many accidents I have been to. Lets just say, I'll always drive a large truck for a daily driver for just that very reason.
 

Prizefighter

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The bronco broke all three straps on the rear from the impact-friend figures he as going 5-15 as he held it straight and slammed on the brakes when he saw the s10 coming at him-have not heard how fast the drunk was estimated to be traveling

Glad him and his family are safe. So where did the Bronco end up in the wreck if all three straps broke? I've always wondered how far forward my Bronco would come in an accident. I have ramps in the back that are held in the up position so that would absorb a lot of the force if my Bronco went backwards, but what about forwards?
 
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kb6677

kb6677

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Glad him and his family are safe. So where did the Bronco end up in the wreck if all three straps broke? I've always wondered how far forward my Bronco would come in an accident. I have ramps in the back that are held in the up position so that would absorb a lot of the force if my Bronco went backwards, but what about forwards?

He had strapped a 300 gallon fuel storage tank in front of it when he left my place the week before-taking some stuff to his new place he had stored at my place during the move. The tank was left on the trailer as he was busy at work before they left. The bronco hit the tank(visualize the tank sitting up and down, not horizontal- he had some other small stuff on each side that he removed when he got home) and basically caved it in- folded it like a folded piece of paper. This kept the bronco on the trailer. He has a front "headache rack" on the trailer the tank was against also. The two together kept the bronco from coming into the back of the truck.
 

ntsqd

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Glad they're OK and it sounds like the EB is fairly OK. Sorry for their truck. If drunks only took out themselves I'd be OK with that. It's their collateral damage that is unacceptable.

Essentially the fuel tank became a crush zone cushioning the impact of the EB into the headache rack.

Not saying or implying this was the case with your friend Karl, but I see people let their straps get oily/dirty/muddy/grimy and continue to use them for the next several decades. Coming from sport rock climbing where to you DO NOT EVER step on the rope this just rubs me wrong. Anchor straps are subject to the same internal abrasion, chemical & sun damage as climbing ropes and should be treated the same way. Keep them clean, wash them in mild detergent occasionally, don't drive on them or step on them, keep them out of the sun when possible, and replace them periodically (I'd say no more than 2 years). Costly? Sure. A runaway vehicle is more costly.
 

Ratch

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Glad your friend and his family are ok, how bad did it hurt the bronco?
 
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kb6677

kb6677

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good ideas ntsqd- I think I may need to replace some of my own straps :) Ratch-winch bumper and stinger on the front of the eb- all good :)
 

JWMcCrary

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Sure glad to hear everybody is OK.

I've always used straps on the axle at each corner with them crossed at the back. One thing that I have noticed which is worth mentioning here. I always check the straps at every fuel stop, some trips the straps would be loose at every stop, other trips they would stay tight. Took a couple years but I finally determined what it was. With the tires aired down to 6 psi or less the straps would loosen up but if tied down with 25 psi in the tires they stay tight.

This thread has me rethinking a chain on the rear as well.
 

englewoodcowboy

Lick Creek Restorations
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Glad everyone is safe.

I am glad you started this thread because out of curiosity there is not much out there on the web showing or explaining this.

I will add some points from my experience (I own a trucking company and load securement is top priority with me).

Chains VS Straps.

Chains have 2 major advantages over straps but they have their place. Chains do not chaff easily and they do not stretch. Where they have advantages for novices is once a chain is taught it does not have any give so the secured item in an incident has no room to gain inertia within its bindings to break them. I have seen chains snap like light cord but it was because they were loose and the load had a chance to gain momentum and pop break them. This is where straps always fail, simply due to improper tightness or chaff protection as well as quantity and proper strength ratings. I personally only use straps for vehicle securement primarily due to ease of use and less likely to damage the vehicle as the OP pointed out and for equipment like my farm tractor etc., it is chains only.

What I have seen is what most do not do is use the proper connections for them. For example, I currently use 4 straps and do not use axle wraps. My trailer is 7' wide so it lends itself perfect to strap the way I do which is I form a loop over each tire. Sometimes I cross the straps in front if placement is correct to allow for it or I position them to oppose the opposite end of the vehicle firmly clamping it in place. The tire is the chaff protection and this is a great way to transport and secure however it is not the best, its just my preference. I feel the best way when securing at the tires is to cross the strap in an "X" with the loop over the top of the tire. This allows each point to be a securement in itself as if only one was on, the vehicle cannot roll and you are not pulling any undo stress on the suspension. You are clamping each tire well to the trailer and the vehicle is along for the ride.

Some like to strap to the frame and load the suspension, I am not a fan of this from my ATV days as I have blown shocks and was told that is not a great way to secure. I have also gone light on that type of securement and hit a rough road and had the suspension compress enough to release a strap.

Another issue I have seen is inadequate strapping. You may have a strap rated for 10K in a straight line pull but most straps when doubled over loose holding strength as the fold (typically where you are looping the strap over something is the weak point). If you look at axle wraps they are super reinforced and allow your strap to pull straight line maintaining its full strength properties. Most certified straps will have this info printed on the label telling you pull strength, loss etc. and it is critical information for us to know to secure properly.

I will also add another issue I have seen is lack of redundancy. One thing I always tell my drivers is you can never have too many straps all the time but you can have too few just once. When in doubt add another but in a vehicle keep in mind a 2" strap X 2 is typically more than enough to handle a 4K to 5K vehicle so going with 4 straps total leaves you with great redundancy and protection.

This is one of those items that there are many ways to skin a cat so I am sharing my preference and experience. If it works it works.
 

fordfan

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Pictures are worth a 1000 words. This is a great example of what not to do. 90% of all loads will move forward (especially in an accident, unless someone hits you in the rear). Vehicles need to be firmly secured front to rear and NOT just side to side. Could you imagine what would happen to these Broncos if a drunk hit the truck head on!
 

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ntsqd

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Just a mental image when thinking about strap rated strength vs. vehicle weight: In a sudden stop you can generate up to about 3G's of deceleration, more if you hit something or are hit by something.

What 3G's really means is that something "weighs" 3 times as much under those conditions. So your 5000 lbs Bronco just became a 15,000 lbs load to those straps. That "weight" is short term, but it's very real to those 10,000 lbs rated straps. Yeah it's cumulative, each added strap adds it's own 10,000lbs rating to the assembly of straps taking a load in any particular direction.

So assume a 3G stop with two straps to the rear axle/tires/however you've anchored the EB down. A 15,000 lbs load pulling on 20,000 lbs cumulative load rating doesn't leave much margin when the minimally acceptable Factor of Safety is 2 times the load. If you've set those straps at an angle relative to the direction of the load (crossed them in a 'X' at the rear) then the effective load capability of those straps is reduced. Say they're at a perfect 45° angle, that means that each strap is now only able to hold about 7,000 lbs. Whoops! Our 15,000 lbs load is now being held back by straps that only add up to 14,000 lbs. rated load.

There is a difference between WLL (Working Load Limit) and what the strap will really break at, but do you feel lucky? The WLL is the mfg's way of adding in some protection for the both of you. Don't assume that you can ignore it! Two decades of grease/grime/being driven on in the mud will have reduced what it will really break at down to and perhaps under the WLL.

Dynamics was never my thing, but then think about an Impulse Loading. This takes that 3X loading and multiplies it by at least 2X and probably more. So your 5,000 lbs. Bronco on a loose strap in a 3G stop is now at least a 30,000 lbs. missile! It's no wonder straps or chains break when they're loose.
 

Pa PITT

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.. Glad your friends are ok..
.. Strapping down is a real chore, when we go to New Mexico. As some one said. every time we stop we check all our straps & Chains. 500+ mile trip we don't feel we can have to many strap points. .
.. We 1st strap down the Axles & then come back across the Bumpers to keep the body from rocking ... & We have stopped for fuel & had chains or straps that have came off.
... Sure nice to look & those extras still holding.
 

englewoodcowboy

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Pictures are worth a 1000 words. This is a great example of what not to do. 90% of all loads will move forward (especially in an accident, unless someone hits you in the rear). Vehicles need to be firmly secured front to rear and NOT just side to side. Could you imagine what would happen to these Broncos if a drunk hit the truck head on!

Agreed 100% You must have opposing strapping no matter what, this is an insufficient way to strap for sure.
 

wepuckett

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Glad your friends are ok.

When we moved across town I bought axle wraps for my straps and also brought the trailer up to the weld shop at the comunity college I was taking a welding class at and had them advise me and guide me on welding on D rings or strapping points sorry mind went blank on wording there. So I have 2 points dead on up front for the front axle and a point on either side in the rear so the front is straight on and rear the straps are crossed. I have a 13inch angle iron rail around the trailer but with the tires we all run that won't do a ton if it gets moving good. I also hook the winch to the front bumper so if I stop it doesn't go backwards at all. I do need to upgrade my straps to the clicking hook ends so nothing can slide off but that should happen before I get it on the road.
 

Broncitis

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May 18, 2004
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Yes, the actual tie down points are often overlooked.

The strongest strap or chain is worthless if the tie down fails.

Many enclosed trailers have flush mount D rings that are only secured with four 1/4 bolts to the 3/4" plywood floor (sometimes with a metal backing plate, sometimes not).

I've also seen many inadequate tie down points on open training trailers, including 1/2" standard grade 2, unwelded eyebolts!

A customer brought his Bronco to me on a trailer equipped with those. Before I returned it, I convinced him to have me add some proper D rings and for him to buy a set of appropriate straps.

In the accident that Karl mentioned that our friend had last week, the hitch and safety cables also broke, there was some serious forces at work.

My main goal is to keep my load safely secured during normal driving and emergency stops and evasive maneuvers. During a head on crash, roll, or other serious crash, all bets are off.

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