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Striker Plate Screw Removal

Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
I have new door striker plates but cannot get the screws loose on the original 74 plates with either a manual hammer impact driver or an electric impact driver. I'm waiting for delivery of an adapter to fit a large Phillips bit into an air impact driver.

Has anyone else had this much trouble with these screws? If I have to drill the heads off, will there be enough screw left showing to grip it with vice grips? Is there any way to get behind the screws to cut them off?

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

AZ73

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 28, 2012
Messages
3,574
Soaked from behind with PB blast for a day, then used a #4 Philips with a hammer impact. You can spray them from behind just in front of the inner wheel fender. I got my #4 from Harbor Freight.
 
OP
OP
J
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
Thanks! That's the info I needed. I didn't know you could spray from the back, so I only sprayed from the front which did next to nothing. I will spray from back several times tomorrow and see if they loosen up.
 

bax

Contributor
Old Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
14,498
Heat. Turn them cherry red and use the hand held impact driver with the # 4 tip.
 

DirtDonk

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Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,914
Yeah, until you've had your head up inside the wheel well a few times, that easy visibility is a mystery. But once you've seen the backside clearly, you get the light bulbs going of above your head!

On particularly messy ones (maybe most of them are these days?) you might even try hitting it with a wire brush to clean off the major gunk before shooting it full of rust fighting liquid.

Good luck. I'd actually had the benefit of owning old cars before, so one of the first things I ever did with my Bronco when I bought it was take the old hammer-impact driver to the screws. Didn't need adjustment, just wanted to make sure they were loose and that if I ever needed to, could adjust them.
Came in handy years later.

Just like pulling glass fuses out, cleaning the contact points and then putting them back in. Did that even before loosening the strikers. Works wonders on a weak electrical system.

Good luck.

Paul
 

andyp

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
894
Those things are a real pain. I couldn't get myself to bang on the hammer correctly. Got my buddy who has done a lot of them got them loose. Sprayed the crap out them also.
 
OP
OP
J
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
Thanks, guys. I will try the PB Blaster from the back in a few minutes and use heat ad a last resort.

I knew that body-frame bolts often need to be sawzalled off, but didn't expect this much struggle with the striker plates. One of our plate knobs is barely hanging on and will completely fall off soon if not replaced.
 
OP
OP
J
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
I may be about to try heating the screws next, because we're trying the PB Blaster from the back and no joy yet. If I have to drill and tap I will, but that's about as tedious a process as there is. Thanks for reminding about it.i
 

hankjr

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
1,761
I tried all the PB and hand impact to no avail. I don't have a torch so I ended up welding a 1/2 nut to the top of the bolt. That worked well

Hank
 

1buckeyefan1

Sr. Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
635
I pounded on mine a bit too..to no avail after soaking, etc. I finally took the #4 impact bit from my craftsman hammer kit and popped it on my 1/2" air impact. Spun them right off.
 
OP
OP
J
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
I can try welding a nut on, and I'm still waiting for delivery of the adapted to connect our air impact wrench to the big Phillips bit.

I'm not sure whether my welder is up to the task of welding a nut onto the large screw head. It's a baby Miller 125 hobbyist for sheet metal and steel up to 3/16".
 

hankjr

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Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
1,761
My welder isn't much larger. I think I set Voltage high and wire feed on the low side. I also dint fill the nut cavity all at once. It took a couple tries and nuts to get the joint strong enough

Hank
 
OP
OP
J
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
The body/frame bolts are a few weeks in the future. The two in the front floor pans just became visible after being hidden for decades by previous repairs.
 

DirtDonk

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Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,914
Glad I asked then.
There is a more reasonable method that can be utilized in many cases.

Obviously, the first thing to try is simply removing the bolts almost all the way, then smacking them with a hammer to see if the old mounts just pop out. Some do, most don't...
Check underneath if you have not already for any nuts. No nuts from the factory, but some PO's put them there because they think someone was smoking something and left them off of their particular Bronco.

If you're re-using the hardware (no body lift in other words) then you can use a big punch, or a sacrificial longer bolt threaded most of the way in, then smack away with the hammer. If in doubt in this case, use a bigger hammer!;)

If any of the four front mounts do not come out the easy way, before you resort to a reciprocating saw, try a drill from straight underneath.
With the bolt completely removed, the only thing holding the lower washer/sleeve/insert/mount thingies in is the mushroomed and rusted interface between the upper and lower sleeves/inserts.
Drilling straight up from underneath with a big enough drill to remove the majority of the material (1/2" bit might be enough, but I think the recommendation is larger, like 9/16" instead) and drill away.
When you drill through to the middle the mount should just fall right out at that point. If not you could punch it out from above.

Takes longer to describe than to do, but drilling has proven to many to be easier to get the business done than a Sawzall trying to cut through the rubber bushings, then the metal sleeves.

Good luck no matter which way you do it. With any luck they'll all just pop right out.
And pigs can fly sometimes too!;D

Paul
 
OP
OP
J
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
13
Loc.
Durango
Thanks, DirtDonk and Monster Billy. I will try with the air impact driver later today, now that my adaptor got here.

The advice on the body frame bolts will be useful. The only one I have tested is the passenger side front floor pan bolt. The head has been under and over rust for 40 years and no socket will grip it. The corners just round more when you turn the wrench. The only thing that will grip it is vice grips, which will tear the head up. But. it's either that or drill the head off.

Drilling from the bottom makes sense. The best metal bits I have are Dewalt split points that go up to 1/2". But if I drill 1/2 " with them, then I can enlarge the hole with a standard 9/16' bit.
 
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