Stroker 408 build questions

[MikeKC130J]

Will be going in 70 bronco 1 in body lift 3.5 sup lift, not doing and crazy rock crawling or hard core off roading, mild off roading and highway driving. No tires bigger than 35. Will be building ( having built) a 4r70w, gears 4:11 or 4;56 not decided which still more research to do.

Question: Do I go with a 351W block and have all the machine work done? Or purchase a 408 Long block ? I know their are a few different places that sells them just not sure which to go with.

I will be going with EFI. Not too sure which EFI to run a FITEC set up or the ford set (lightning upper and lower?) up have read that the multi port fuel injection is night and day difference. I defiantly do not know anything about EFI including the tuning and computers, wiring harness ECT so any info is greatly appreciated.

 

[fordguy]

Will be going in 70 bronco 1 in body lift 3.5 sup lift, not doing and crazy rock crawling or hard core off roading, mild off roading and highway driving. No tires bigger than 35. Will be building ( having built) a 4r70w, gears 4:11 or 4;56 not decided which still more research to do.

Question: Do I go with a 351W block and have all the machine work done? Or purchase a 408 Long block ? I know their are a few different places that sells them just not sure which to go with.

I will be going with EFI. Not too sure which EFI to run a FITEC set up or the ford set (lightning upper and lower?) up have read that the multi port fuel injection is night and day difference. I defiantly do not know anything about EFI including the tuning and computers, wiring harness ECT so any info is greatly appreciated.

as a starting point, talk to blueprint engines. they have good prices and good warranties. they sell holley sniper with some of their engines. you can get a feel for prices from their website. blueprint has earned a reputation as a honest vendor from what i read.

 

[5001craig]

Personally, I'd go with an aftermarket block if/when I do it again. That's the one (or maybe a couple other) thing(s) I would have done. Then have it built. Start with fresh cylinders. Not .020, .040 or more over.

But I do like mine.

 

[nvrstuk]

Like 5001craig...if I was doing mine over again i'd go aftermarket block...course for $2,000 MORE it was an easy decision to go with a stock 351W roller block. I"ve built two aftermarket block strokers and they are nice

the aftermarket blocks have some real advantages but at the time $2K was a big factor...not complaining tho...

 

[rcmbronc]

I am building a stroker right now which has totally gone out of control. As long as you do not plan on getting too aggressive with it then this is what I would do.

Look at the Blueprint 408 short block. Maybe even there long block with there aluminum heads. There heads look pretty nice for the money. Install a hydraulic roller cam and then personally I would top it with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI.

Just my opinion. I believe it would make a great engine.

 

[MikeKC130J]

I am building a stroker right now which has totally gone out of control. As long as you do not plan on getting too aggressive with it then this is what I would do.

Look at the Blueprint 408 short block. Maybe even there long block with there aluminum heads. There heads look pretty nice for the money. Install a hydraulic roller cam and then personally I would top it with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI.

Just my opinion. I believe it would make a great engine.

thanks for the suggestion what cam numbers I am not getting agressive not looking to make reasonable TQ HP.ive seen some folks on here and their cam specs and to tell you the truth i have an idea how a cam works i don't know which is correct for my build. trying to stay in the 9.5:1 comp ratio its not a deal breaker if i go a little over.
thanks

 

[rcmbronc]

Lots of variables for cam shaft. Tire size and gear ration. Best to call a cam company like Comp Cams.

If you have a roller block then I would look at this one

http://www.compperformancegroupstor...Product_Code=35-324-8&Category_Code=F50CEFIXE

If you have a standard block then you need retrofit rollers. They will need to help with picking that also. Sorry.

 

[rmk57]

Op says mild off-roading and highway driving, not sure why you would need an aftermarket block for that. Any Windsor block would fit the bill.

 

[sykanr0ng]

If you have a standard block then you need retrofit rollers. They will need to help with picking that also. Sorry.

The OP does not yet have a block, so all he needs is to find an F4TE roller block and not need a retrofit cam and link bar rollers.

 

[MikeKC130J]

The OP does not yet have a block, so all he needs is to find an F4TE roller block and not need a retrofit cam and link bar rollers.

is their any specific year for the F4TE block i need to be looking for?
I have done some research and it is a mixed batch about the cracking of the block at the cam bearings. That is why I was maybe looking at an initial crate 408 stroker from blueprint. With the F4TE block i will have to have all the machine work done and heads cam rotating assy installed ect, so i figured by the time all the work was done it would be close to the cost of the 408 long block? I may be way out on that statment i still have to price what the machine shop charges.

 

[mustanggarage]

that was the question I had. I went through it all. I found a decent used 5.8 engine on ebay for 500. then I figured about a thousand for the machine work and installing the cam bearings and freeze plugs. about 2000 for a set of AFR heads, 1600 for the stroker kit, then the roller rockers, pushrods, timing set etc etc. and you are easily over 5000.00. the stroker I built for my 89 convertible was even higher because I went with pretty high end stuff. then I found this engine on summit racings site. from blueprint engines. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mll-bpf4084ct

it is already built, dyno'd and everything. you need to change the oilpan and pickup but that is only about 150 from wildhorses. so that is what I did. I ordered it on a monday, it was delivered that friday. free shipping. I still have some things to do before I can drop it in my chassis but hopefully it will be a good setup. wheres that fingers crossed emoji.

 

[rguest3]

F4TE - 1994-1997. It is a 351w but later called a 5.8L.

 

[jagbucket]

Money wise i think you will find it cheaper to buy prebuilt such as the summit product. my build is over 4k now and still have final machine shop bill, intake(proflo4) and head gaskets to go. Also time wise its been at the shop for two months which is fine with me but if you are in a hurry a crate motor is no a contest winner.

 

[edmedlin]

I went with the ATK 302/365hp roller that dynos at 385hp and 370 lb/ft of torque at 3500 rpms. It came with Dart Pro1 heads and I have had it for almost 2yrs without any issues at all. It also has the MSD pro-billet all in one distributor that eliminates the ignition box. The cam is a little aggressive, but a 2200 stall converter does the job great. Hard to beat $5700 for a drop in good performer.
https://youtu.be/IkVlBAOTF_I
•Camshaft Specifications: 220/224 @050 .512in/.512ex 112LSA

 

[mustanggarage]

I just got the dyno sheet for my blue print engines 408 stroker. long block. it came with an oilpan and timing cover but I replaced those so it is basically a long block. but 5325 from summit racing with free delivery and here is my dyno sheet. I guess they under estimated the hp and torque it produces.

 

[markw]

With those numbers on the dyno I'd do the Blueprint. Save yourself the hassle. That's a great engine.

 

[Letsgocrawling]

Will be going in 70 bronco 1 in body lift 3.5 sup lift, not doing and crazy rock crawling or hard core off roading, mild off roading and highway driving. No tires bigger than 35. Will be building ( having built) a 4r70w, gears 4:11 or 4;56 not decided which still more research to do.

Question: Do I go with a 351W block and have all the machine work done? Or purchase a 408 Long block ? I know their are a few different places that sells them just not sure which to go with.

I will be going with EFI. Not too sure which EFI to run a FITEC set up or the ford set (lightning upper and lower?) up have read that the multi port fuel injection is night and day difference. I defiantly do not know anything about EFI including the tuning and computers, wiring harness ECT so any info is greatly appreciated.

thanks for the suggestion what cam numbers I am not getting agressive not looking to make reasonable TQ HP.ive seen some folks on here and their cam specs and to tell you the truth i have an idea how a cam works i don't know which is correct for my build. trying to stay in the 9.5:1 comp ratio its not a deal breaker if i go a little over.
thanks

is their any specific year for the F4TE block i need to be looking for?
I have done some research and it is a mixed batch about the cracking of the block at the cam bearings. That is why I was maybe looking at an initial crate 408 stroker from blueprint. With the F4TE block i will have to have all the machine work done and heads cam rotating assy installed ect, so i figured by the time all the work was done it would be close to the cost of the 408 long block? I may be way out on that statment i still have to price what the machine shop charges.

I have read many threads on the stroker combos and have found it entertaining to say the least. There are so many variables of what works and what doesn't for sure! I'm no guru but my buddy who is a motor guy put a combo together for me that works great, at least I can share some of this info and hope it makes sense lol. I had 4 W blocks to choose from, first year to a 96 can't remember exact years but they were spread out. I do remember my motor guy saying any one will work though. Some people said the earlier years had better cast iron, that being said my builder decided to go with the block that had the most meat in the critical areas. After sonic or ultrasound checking the decks, bores, main webbing, cam tunnel webbing the 96 had way better mass at all points of measurement go figure, BTW the 96 was out of a bronco so it was a roller. Before I go any farther my motor is a 408 lol. The camshaft is a modified voodoo solid roller #40350733 actual #s are .629 lift on both intake and exhaust and 249@.050 duration on both intake and exhaust, 114 lobe separation...I remember the motor guy calling it a strait up deal. One point not to forget in any camshaft installation the cam needs to be degreed period, this will get every possible bit of performance and generate less heat in the motor! This camshaft idles at 800 rpm and does not sound radical at all, but with a 3" exhaust at idle it vibrates the walls of the house lol. the cams manors are amazing instant response off idle and pulls to 6800. To give you an idea I accidently ran a really rough long crawl obstacle in high range just off idle. Believe it or not...tranny did go to 240 though lol. Yes this cam reference isn't for everyone but I just think a lot of folks just go by what everyone else is doing which is ok. keep us posted MikeKC just my .02