Superduty Dana 60 Axle Swap

[SavageBurro]

Also, in case you were not aware - you can get a factory 10.5 elocker from Ford for like $600 that will fit that 10.5.

 

[meanjean73]

If you don't want the hassle of narrowing the rear, you could use a 14 bolt rear or an older Sterling 10.25 rear (ie 94-97) that is already 67wms. Of course, you'd have to convert the bolt pattern in either the front or rear to get them to match. Then there is potential need to shave to 14 bolt, upgrade from drum to disc, whether you spend the extra for e-brakes...... Always trade offs.

Good idea. I’ll have to look into cost associated with converting to disc and bolt pattern change. I watched several people on YouTube cut up a 8.8 rear end and it didn’t seem too daunting?

Being I have already purchased these axles I’m trying to go with these but if it becomes too difficult I need to admit defeat and look at another option.
Thanks for your feedback.

 

[meanjean73]

Also, in case you were not aware - you can get a factory 10.5 elocker from Ford for like $600 that will fit that 10.5.

I did not know that. What year?

 

[Yeller]

Here is my idea to make these axles fit my build, maybe you all can tell where the flaw is or what Im missing?
Front axle
Cut down the Dana 60 3.06" shorter on the passenger side and use a 78/79 inner axle shaft with my factory 30 spline outer shaft. (Both use a 1480 series U-joint). This moves the center section to within 1.5" of the factory location with a driveline angle off the T-case around 5 degrees. Narrow by removing the passenger side C and re-welding into place. New WMS to WMS 66.19" vs the factory 69.25"

Rear axle
For the 10.5, buy another short shaft to replace the longer driver side shaft. Narrow the axle 2.32" by cutting the tube near the center section and welding back together. There will be a truss over the center section for the 4 link. The truss could help beef up the area where the tube was cut and butt welded back together. This would provide a new WMS to WMS of 66.55" vs the stock 68.87" and move the pinion shaft closer to center line of the frame.

Additionally this would make these axles roughly 8" wider than factory, very manageable width to keep the tires from poking out excessively.

That will work fine. With proper back spacing on wheels you can be narrower than the guys doing full width f150’s that are 65” wide and have. Properly welded the but welded the butt welded tube will be stronger than the tube was originally, your weld filler wire has a higher tensil strength than the original tube. The plan will work, just keep in mind that yes the ujoints are significantly stronger, but the week point is still the outer axle shaft, it’s the same diameter as your Dana 44 axle. This is why the newer superduty axles have even larger ujoints and 35 spline axle shafts throughout. If you’re not going planning on pushing the truck hard you will never have an issue. Same goes for the unit bearings that I discussed previously. Saves a ton of dollars too

 

[SavageBurro]

I did not know that. What year?

2011 and newer. Part BC3Z-4026-B

 

[meanjean73]

That will work fine. With proper back spacing on wheels you can be narrower than the guys doing full width f150’s that are 65” wide and have. Properly welded the but welded the butt welded tube will be stronger than the tube was originally, your weld filler wire has a higher tensil strength than the original tube. The plan will work, just keep in mind that yes the ujoints are significantly stronger, but the week point is still the outer axle shaft, it’s the same diameter as your Dana 44 axle. This is why the newer superduty axles have even larger ujoints and 35 spline axle shafts throughout. If you’re not going planning on pushing the truck hard you will never have an issue. Same goes for the unit bearings that I discussed previously. Saves a ton of dollars too

Found on another forum some guys pull the needle bearings out of the UB and go with 35 spline outers and use slugs. Since the axle no longer spins inside the UB the needle bearings don't do anything and the UB doesn't need to be bored out for the larger shafts? The debate was if a thin tube needed to be installed to prevent deflection under load to replace the needle bearings? Some said yes, some no. It's the internet to who knows?

I did find a error in my original idea, my math was wrong. If I shorten the axle 3 inches, it only moves the pinion over 1.5", not 3. Same concept of adding larger tires and the ground clearance relationship. At this point not sure if its worth the money or effort to gain 1.5" of lateral movement. Just run the axles as is or find another option?

 

[Yeller]

I’d run them as is and play with wheels to get the overall width your after.

If memory serves me correctly the bore on the spindles is still too small to get a 35 spline axle through, it uses a D44 spindle bearing. The old school full stuff uses a larger spindle bearing and the only change needed to install 35 spline is to change the lockout. If removing the spindle bearing would work there would not have been the reason for someone to develop a splined spindle to add strength to the spindle, basically making the spindle the drive flange. Which does work

 

[Madgyver]

I’d run them as is and play with wheels to get the overall width your after.

this my plan. i got me some raceline wheels for the d60 swap

 

[meanjean73]

this my plan. i got me some raceline wheels for the d60 swap

What backspacing/offset are you looking at?

 

[ThisEndUp]

Just curious, those of you who have installed a Full Width D60HP in your EB with a 3.5" or 5.5" suspension lift. What front pinion angles are working for your set up? Thanks BeeBo