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Suspension lift install guidance

Cougar

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2003
Messages
166
Loc.
Loveland, CO
I bought a Superlift kit that just has the add a leafs for the back. So I'm probably in the same boat as the Ranchos. Where does the harshness come from? It seems like it would have to be the rear since there isn't much you can do with the front coils except to get a progressive rate set. I might just pony up for a set of new leaf packs. Someone please let me know...the credit card is ready! ;D
 
OP
OP
trophybass

trophybass

Full Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2003
Messages
825
Loc.
Plant City, Florida
77BroncoWag said:
hope your fillings hold;D
First EB I bought had one of their kits on it.
OWwwwwww. 15 years later my back still remembers it:eek:
:eek: Come on guys it my first EB. besides anyone with an EB who didnt scrimp on $ and learn the hard way must have bought one already done and didnt learn anything at all.;) Just kidding guys. Thanksfor not flaming me too bad about this whole thing.
 

72bronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 23, 2001
Messages
2,292
There's a few unanswered questions in the last couple of posts I'll try to address:

First, on the issue of double shocks. Double shocks really aren't necessary unless you do desert racing where the suspension has to move up and down rapidly for extended periods of time. Single shocks would fade due to the heat buildup. The downside is that double shocks will give you a stiffer ride. But for street, rock crawling, or moderate offroading a good quality single shock would probably be a better choice. Everyone raves about Bilstein shocks and that's what I have on my Bronco.

Second, on track bar drop brackets. Using a track bar drop bracket will put the track bar geometry back to stock, which keeps the front axle centered under the vehicle. Without one the axle would sit off center. There are other alternatives however, depending on budget and complexity. An adjustable track bar can be used instead. Some don't like the additional stress the drop bracket could put on the frame and opt for a custom bracket to raise the track bar mounting point on the axle itself. The same thing applies to a drop pitman arm. You can opt to do a tie rod over conversion that would raise the tie rod by 3 inches and avoid having to use a drop pitman arm. Plus by raising the tie rod you decrease the likelyhood of bashing your tie rod on unfriendly objects.

On the bronco lean there are lots of threads you can search. Also check out the following link:
http://www.broncofix.com/Tech/lean/lean.htm

The hardest part of the install for me was getting the front axle reconnected to the radius arms. Not really all that difficult. The trick was to disconnect the front drive shaft so I could put in the radius arms and have more movement to get the axle into place.

On the harsh ride issue, most complaints are from guys that run add-a-leafs. Add-a-leafs do not do anything to increase articulation plus they actually stiffen the existing springs. A good set of leaf springs will actually contain more leafs (mine have eleven), which gives you a softer ride and increases the suspension's ability to flex. It's definately the way to go, but the trade off is $$.

Not all coils are the same either. Some of the cheaper lift kits have very stiff coils. Lots of guys like the BC Broncos coils and that's what I run on mine. They ride very nice and actually are NOT progressive rate coils, they are just very soft.
 

Lttrbox

Full Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
593
Loc.
IF
Hell, sounds to me like you got it under control. I did mine myself, with no help and had never seen one done. I also added the F250 mounts and a wristed arm while I was under there. Since my normal job accounts for around 14 hrs a day 4 days a week, this suspension job took me nearly 2 months to do. Oh ya, did I mention it was an Idaho winter and I had to relearn how to weld. Finally got it done though.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Cougar said:
The problem I have right now is putting the radius arm back into its bracket on the driver's side.
Be careful. I remember installing my lift with new bushings,etc. Had to use a crowbar to pry the radius arm into place on the drivers side. If I had known what I was doing, I would have realized that I had the problem that creates the Bronco Lean. Be sure that you follow the article. Put the front diff on jackstands, and lower the radius arms to the floor. It is extreamly important that the end of BOTH arms touch the floor. If one arm doesn't touch, you will get a lean. My Bronco sat 2 1/2" lower at the drivers rear.

It took me two years to finally learn what caused the lean. Took the front diff back off, and found that the radius arms were 2" different at the ends. Messed with them enough to get them parallel, and now the Bronco sits within 1/4" of level.
 

jcwalsh1

Full Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
384
Loc.
Shawnee, KS
LIFT

Start putting WD40 on all the bolts/nuts NOW!!!. I started a WH 2.5" lift this past weekend. Having another pair of hands would have been a great help. I finished one AAL in 5 hours. The best tool I had was a 2 foot pipe to put on the end of my socket wrench. The U-bolt nuts were smoking from the friction. I did not have a 15/16" socket and had to borrow one. You will need at least two jacks and a pair of jack stands. A torch was also helpful. I know the front will be even more challenging.

You should plan on replacing all of the bushings and shocks.

Use the Jack stands. All the kicking and shoving to get the leaf bolt back into the axle hole I almost knocked the jack over. Having them made me feel a lot better.

JW
 
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