Switching out 44/9 for 60s. PLEASE give some input on 44/9 value

[mountainview68]

I just picked up a non running 79 F350 and am going to be swapping the 44 and 9" for the 60s. I am trying to put a budget together to get this done. I am going to have to fork out the money to get the 60s geared and locked, etc. When I am all done I will have the 44 and 9" left. What would someone REALISTICALY pay for them. This is a big factor in how soon I am going to start this swap.

PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INPUT

1968 Big bearing rear housing with 31 spline Yukon axles
4.88:1
True High 9 rear end with spool with thrustblocks and forged yoke(http://www.truehi9.com/)
Drum brakes
Needs ebrake cables hooked up
Setup for cage off road rear shock mount and duff long link traction bar( bar not included but brackets are welded to the housing)
Housing couted in POR 15

1977 Disk brake front
New hubs, rotors, Calipers, bearings, seals,
Warn Hubs
Superior Evolutions with CTM joints
OX Locker
4:88:1
Stainless brakelines
Bullet Proof steering
All the best stuff
Housing coated in POR 15

 

[truehi9]

Why are ya pulling the Hi9?

Thanks

 

[mountainview68]

Because I am Going to run them full width, 8 Lug. I don't want to cut the front down and convert to 5 lug.

 

[truehi9]

Ahh. I figured maybe you wanted to go 35 spline. If that was the case we could've rebored your exsisting case for ya, free.

 

[crab]

my guess is to match the front 60 lug pattern so he can run Hummer Bead Locks?? Not sure I would go with 60 rear over the hi9. Depends on how strong a wheel spacer/adapter is in comparison to the strength of the 9 over the 60??? If still running 31sp axles might be better off just going 60??
Good luck.......at least you have good trading stock;D
BTW.........Ryan is double checking to make sure it is a 60 front, so don't get to excited yet!

 

[mountainview68]

Ahh. I figured maybe you wanted to go 35 spline. If that was the case we could've rebored your exsisting case for ya, free.

You must be a dealer. It seems like I got the 9 out of minnesota. If I change direction and run 5 lug front, are you able to reset the gears?? How much?? I would go 35 spline detroit.

 

[truehi9]

I am Weivoda Auto and developed the truehi9. I lived in Fargo when I registered which is on the border of Moorhead MN, which is connected to Dilworth, MN.

We are machining the Hi9 cases ourselves now so the machine stays set up for the cases. Sometimes if we run out of 35 spline cases we just rebore 31s to 35 spline. Since it is very easy we could rebore your case to help you out if needed.

The gears can easily be reset, the main cost would be the Detroit. The Detroit would cost about $500.00. So with carrier bearings, adjusters, labor and shipping $700.00.

Maybe those wheel adapters would get you wide enough and make your 8 lug wheels work?

(fixed the location)

 

[mountainview68]

I was hoping that by swapping them full width it would save me some money. I REALLY like the 9 and do not regret the purchase. I just can't seem to keep the front end parts together. I just dropped over a grand rebuilding the 44 after the tru trac and ring and pinion broke.

 

[truehi9]

Heres some adapters I found but I'm sure there are others.

http://www.truckn-store.com/product.asp?returnURL=default.asp&ID=98089

 

[truehi9]

Some guys have had pretty good luck with the after market 31 spline axles. Maybe try the adapters on the rear and just do the front. Then if you start breaking rear axles you could just switch to 35 spline later. Just a thought.

Looks like you've got a pretty healty motor. ARRRRRR.

 

[mountainview68]

I did not realize they made adapters to convert 5 lug to eight lug. Not a bad idea. I Just got new 5 lug beadlocks though. I guess I have alot to think about now. I really would like to be able to run 35 spline and not worry about it. Would it be better to find a buyer for my existing high 9 and get a new high nine that is already 35 spline with the detroit??

 

[crab]

To bad ford never built a full width 8 lug 9".......or did they?

 

[blue67]

Keep the rear and take Hi9's offer up if you granade the 31 spline. The front 60 (if you score it) will be pricey if built correctly, unless you have the skills to do all the work yourself. First off the 60's carrier is a pig. You'll lose clearance on it North, South & West if looking at from the front of the steed. To clear everything you'll need to cut off (shorten) of the drivers side and move it over to clear the oil pan, shave the bottom (gain back the clearance of the 44) and decide on if you want to run coil springs or coilovers. The adapters are are a savings for the rear that Hi9 suggested, but if you try to put it on a trailer with it being full width you'll be limited in more ways than one.

Been there and have just about completed that.

My .o2

 

[trailpsycho]

You said that you grenaded the true trac, thats a completely different animal than the ARB you installed in its place. I would run with what you have. You will have alot more switching everythign else around. There are alot of folks who run similar set-ups that dont have problems...but I guess thats difficult to comapre due to power and tranny factors.

 

[mountainview68]

%)

You said that you grenaded the true trac, thats a completely different animal than the ARB you installed in its place. I would run with what you have. You will have alot more switching everythign else around. There are alot of folks who run similar set-ups that dont have problems...but I guess thats difficult to comapre due to power and tranny factors.

I am not sure if the ring and pinion breaking had something to do with the tru trac breaking, or maybe the opposite. All I know is 550lb ft of torque has not been friendly to my front end. I started with Yukon axles and broke them, switched to superior and CTMs and broke the Ring and Pinion/Tru trac. What is the next week link??? If I would have just started with a 60 I probably would be money ahead%) Everytime it breaks it cost me alot of money, and leaves me without 4 wheel drive on the trail.

 

[Steve]

I gotta wonder, is the problem the axle parts or your right foot? Please don't take that badly, I'm serious. From your sig you do have a very healthy motor that will, if used with a heavy right foot, break parts no matter how you build it.

I run a "built" D44 front (locked, alloy shafts, CTMs and hydro assist) and a "built" 9" (locked, 31 spline alloy shafts). Mine has a mildly built 302 with EFI, a C4 and an Atlas 4.3. I run beadlocked 36x12.50 TSL/SX tires aired way down. It's a trailer queen that's run the toughest trails in Moab and elsewhere and I haven't broken anything in the drivetrain for several years. (I know I just jinxed myself there... ) But then I like to crawl and use finesse and not try to power over everything.

If you're convinced you need a D60 up front, PM cobronco on here, he did that swap a couple of years ago and converted his to 5 on 5.5 pattern so he could stick with a built 9" in the rear, which is what I'd do if I were you.

Good luck whatever you decide to do.

 

[mountainview68]

I gotta wonder, is the problem the axle parts or your right foot? Please don't take that badly, I'm serious. From your sig you do have a very healthy motor that will, if used with a heavy right foot, break parts no matter how you build it.

No offense taken, you build big motors to use them. I do absolutely no crawling. I admit I am a little heavy on the throttle at times. I think I broke my front end pulling out a stranded superduty at Sand Lake. Not 100% sure though. I want to be able to hammer down on the throttle and not have things come apart, that is why I am looking to upgrade. I am sure that I could rig up the throtle cable at 1/2 throttle, but what is the fun in that.;D

 

[Steve]

I am sure that I could rig up the throtle cable at 1/2 throttle, but what is the fun in that.;D

LOL, can't disagree with that. ;D Maybe you need Rockwells.