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Tell me about my power plant please

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,337
Looks pretty stock. Has EGR, aftermarket dipstick, replacement brake lines. C4 vacuum modulator lines, EGR and distributor vac advance are not plumbed correctly. Some parts appear to be missing. Here's a diagram.

Oh and you have a vacuum leak at the PCV valve.
 

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daddycreswell

daddycreswell

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2,772
Loc.
Lebanon, TN
Looks pretty stock. Has EGR, aftermarket dipstick, replacement brake lines. C4 vacuum modulator lines, EGR and distributor vac advance are not plumbed correctly. Some parts appear to be missing. Here's a diagram.

Oh and you have a vacuum leak at the PCV valve.

Alright, thanks so how do I fix that leak, what problems can be assoicated with the EGR and distributor not being plumbed right. I am having a problem with it running right, it drives out strong up 50 mph anything over that it starts to spit and back fire. I noticed that the ALT hand on the dash would jump up and down when this was going on. Any help would be great.
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,408
Your carb is a Motorcraft 2100 - probably the best 2 barrel carb for Broncos. Stock and works great as is. No need to upgrade this - but a rebuild might be in your future if you are having problems with fuel delivery.

I see power steering, manual brakes and what looks like the stock intake.

It also looks like the fuel filter that is going to the carb (the small silver cylinder in the front of the carb) is pretty old. You might want to swap that out (only costs a couple of bucks at the parts store). This might help your issue at 50mph too.

Does your heater work? It looks like the heater control valve is corroded. Thats the valve that is near the back of the engine - on the passenger side - near the valve colver. Its a simple valve that opens and closes and allows hot coolant to flow into the heater core (which is inside the cab by the passenger footwell). The valve is connected to a cable that goes through the firewall into the cab and is operated by the knob that says "Pull for heat". If you pull on that knob the lever opens and coolant can flow to the heater core. Again - about $10 at a parts store and swaps out with just a flat head screwdriver.

Your alternator looks fairly new - thats the silver circular shaped motor on the front of the engine (passenger side). You also have a new voltage regulator - thats the shiny silver box thats mounted to your firewall on the passenger side.

Also looks like your starter solenoid is new - thats the small black cylinder thats bolted to the fender behind the battery. This gives the starter power when you turn the key.

I can't tell much about the ignition - anyone want to chime in? It looks like your coil is pretty old - might not be a bad idea to carry a spare. Thats the thing that sits on top of the intake (passenger side of the carb) and has an ignition wire connected to it. Some people suggest moving this off of the intake where it can get more cool air - but yours seems to be just fine there.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,337
First plug that open port on top the PCV valve (on front driver side valve cover).

Then, since you don't appear to have the thermostatic switches, I would run only a single vac line to both the modulator and the vac advance on the distributor. Connect that to the outer ports. Modulator to full manifold vac (where it is now) and distributor to the port on the passenger side of carb. Plug the inner ports.
 
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daddycreswell

daddycreswell

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2,772
Loc.
Lebanon, TN
Your carb is a Motorcraft 2100 - probably the best 2 barrel carb for Broncos. Stock and works great as is. No need to upgrade this - but a rebuild might be in your future if you are having problems with fuel delivery.

I see power steering, manual brakes and what looks like the stock intake.

It also looks like the fuel filter that is going to the carb (the small silver cylinder in the front of the carb) is pretty old. You might want to swap that out (only costs a couple of bucks at the parts store). This might help your issue at 50mph too.

Does your heater work? It looks like the heater control valve is corroded. Thats the valve that is near the back of the engine - on the passenger side - near the valve colver. Its a simple valve that opens and closes and allows hot coolant to flow into the heater core (which is inside the cab by the passenger footwell). The valve is connected to a cable that goes through the firewall into the cab and is operated by the knob that says "Pull for heat". If you pull on that knob the lever opens and coolant can flow to the heater core. Again - about $10 at a parts store and swaps out with just a flat head screwdriver.

Your alternator looks fairly new - thats the silver circular shaped motor on the front of the engine (passenger side). You also have a new voltage regulator - thats the shiny silver box thats mounted to your firewall on the passenger side.

Also looks like your starter solenoid is new - thats the small black cylinder thats bolted to the fender behind the battery. This gives the starter power when you turn the key.

I can't tell much about the ignition - anyone want to chime in? It looks like your coil is pretty old - might not be a bad idea to carry a spare. Thats the thing that sits on top of the intake (passenger side of the carb) and has an ignition wire connected to it. Some people suggest moving this off of the intake where it can get more cool air - but yours seems to be just fine there.

Thanks Heus33, I am taking your info and putting it on my pictures for the future.
 

Old School

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
440
Loc.
AZ
Flowmaster mufflers. Proud kid.

Just try this- unplug the egr valve, stick a golf tee in it and take it for a ride to see if your stutter changes at all.

Neither the carb nor fuel filter look too fresh. Neither does the distributor cap. Any of those could cause it to run rough- especially at higher speeds
 
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daddycreswell

daddycreswell

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2,772
Loc.
Lebanon, TN
Flowmaster mufflers. Proud kid.

Just try this- unplug the egr valve, stick a golf tee in it and take it for a ride to see if your stutter changes at all.

Neither the carb nor fuel filter look too fresh. Neither does the distributor cap. Any of those could cause it to run rough- especially at higher speeds

Thanks Old School, Where is the EGR located at??????????? Yea I was taking pictures of the everything today and noticed the fuel filter looked pretty bad. I'll change that out.
 

Old School

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
440
Loc.
AZ
The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve is the round valve about 2.5 inches in diameter mounted at an angle below the back side of the carburetor.

It has a vacuum line going to it. You can remove the vacuum line, plug it and take the Bronco for a ride. That's not your fix but if the miss goes away or changes, it will help find it.

The valve you referred to is the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve.
 

Revelation

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
4,812
What is with the matching stains on the kids shorts, shirt and hat?;D
6068331206_23ef73d129.jpg
 
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daddycreswell

daddycreswell

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2,772
Loc.
Lebanon, TN
First plug that open port on top the PCV valve (on front driver side valve cover).

Then, since you don't appear to have the thermostatic switches, I would run only a single vac line to both the modulator and the vac advance on the distributor. Connect that to the outer ports. Modulator to full manifold vac (where it is now) and distributor to the port on the passenger side of carb. Plug the inner ports.

Ok I can handle the PCV valve, but the rest is french to me, I have no clue what your talking about. Is there a place where I can get a diagram of the 302 so I can become more familiar with the parts of it?
 

Revelation

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 9, 2004
Messages
4,812
Yea just picking at you, Get all dressed up in Vol orange, get in Blue Bronco, Look like a Gator fan! Go Gators, Beat Bama!
 
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daddycreswell

daddycreswell

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
2,772
Loc.
Lebanon, TN
Ok so I tried Old School's advice and put at golf tee in the line running to the EGR and drove it around, still doing the same thing and it's crazy that it does it at 50 mph and above.
 
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