Timing advance thingy (69)

[rednck21]

cant get my 69 to run right...lack of power and it backfires. my dad thinks it has something to do with the timing. so i get to looking around under the hood and the timing advance has a hose running to the base of the carb and a hose running down by the frame and it was plugged off. thought this seemed odd to me. should this other hose be hooked up somewhere? any ideas? ?:?

 

[Hnrys69]

I blocked off my vacume advance and at the carb. Fords advance sucks. Block it off and run upwards of 15-20 degrees and try that.

 

[edjolly]

That "thingy" is the vacuum advance diaphram, and the line should run from it to an engine vacuum source on the intake. There is a multi-port manifold on the front of my intake, you may have one also.<br><br>Ed<br>

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

You've got a dual diaphram dist. Which hose is attached to the carb and which one is hanging? The hose that doesn't go to the carb should be attached to the manifold at a fitting a few inches behind the carb. if everything is stock. <br>The timing should initialy be set to 6~8 deg btdc with both vac lines disconnected and all vacuum ports plugged. This is a good time to check for vacuum leaks with some gummout or WD-40, or something like that.<br>Of the two lines from the dist, the on furthest from the dist cap (closest to the radiator) is the vacuum advance and attaches to the base of the carb. When you hook this one up, the timing should jump up to about 12 deg btdc. <br>The other line, that attaches closer to the cap, is vacuum Retard. It goes to the fitting on the manifold. It's an emissions thing and only functions while decelerating.. It will not affect performance or MPG whether it's hooked up or not, Sometimes it can cut down back-fireing when decelerating but that's the only diff you would ever notice. I would hook it up proper 'cause nothing says "Amature" as loud as things hanging lose, or cut off and plugged off under the hood. The only reason to plug it off is if the diaphram in the dist is leaking. The advance diaphram is just as likely to leak also.<br>A remanufactured dist with all new advanvce, 'tard, and new points adjusted and tested to OEM specs costs about $30. Alot of parts stores have vacuum hand pumps on hand to test things like this.

 

[74bronc]

I would say screw it and get a single port vac. advance dizzy to throw in there and not mess around with a piece of smog gear. It probably needs to be replaced anyway.

 

[JTCamp]

Where should a single vacuum advance line be hooked up to? Ported or manifold? Also, how would it run without it? <br><br>John

 

[c2computer]

I have mine hooked up from the distributor to the ported on the carb. I belive this is so you don't run your dist too advanced when you are idling, am I right?

 

[dji]

If it's a single it goes to the carb. My dual screwed up and I went with a new single. Big difference.

 

[rednck21]

[quote author=Skuzzlebutt link=board=5;threadid=10071;start=0#72794 date=1034338460]<br>You've got a dual diaphram dist. Which hose is attached to the carb and which one is hanging? The hose that doesn't go to the carb should be attached to the manifold at a fitting a few inches behind the carb. if everything is stock. <br>The timing should initialy be set to 6~8 deg btdc with both vac lines disconnected and all vacuum ports plugged. This is a good time to check for vacuum leaks with some gummout or WD-40, or something like that.<br>Of the two lines from the dist, the on furthest from the dist cap (closest to the radiator) is the vacuum advance and attaches to the base of the carb. When you hook this one up, the timing should jump up to about 12 deg btdc. <br>The other line, that attaches closer to the cap, is vacuum Retard. It goes to the fitting on the manifold. It's an emissions thing and only functions while decelerating.. It will not affect performance or MPG whether it's hooked up or not, Sometimes it can cut down back-fireing when decelerating but that's the only diff you would ever notice. I would hook it up proper 'cause nothing says "Amature" as loud as things hanging lose, or cut off and plugged off under the hood. The only reason to plug it off is if the diaphram in the dist is leaking. The advance diaphram is just as likely to leak also.<br>A remanufactured dist with all new advanvce, 'tard, and new points adjusted and tested to OEM specs costs about $30. Alot of parts stores have vacuum hand pumps on hand to test things like this.<br>[/quote]<br><br>makes sence....the hose that runs from the advance to the base of the carb was split at both ends. i cut an inch off each end and it made a good difference. there is a fitting in the back of my manifold but i wasnt sure about it. would it be better to get a new single line unit or the factory 2 line unit?? any special cap and rotor to buy? this ignition and timing thing is new to me :

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

If you do need a new dist, a single is simpler so there is less to go wrong but engine performance will be the same with either dist.<br>If the engine still doesn't run well after you get the timing relatively close you may need a new timing chain and gears.<br>

 

[rednck21]

got a friend of mine to look at it today....he adjusted the timing and i replaced the plugs...HUGE DIFFERENCE ;Dhe didnt have a timing light so its not perfect but its alot better. its still got the points style dist...would the electronic be a good upgrade?? is it worth it?

 

[Gordys74]

[quote author=rednck21 link=board=5;threadid=10071;start=0#73361 date=1034564124]<br>got a friend of mine to look at it today....he adjusted the timing and i replaced the plugs...HUGE DIFFERENCE ;Dhe didnt have a timing light so its not perfect but its alot better. its still got the points style dist...would the electronic be a good upgrade?? is it worth it?<br>[/quote]Both of my 70's model trucks have points ignition and I kinda like them. Point sets are cheap and I replace them every fall. With a magnetic screwdriver it doesn't take very long. So far both run reliably.