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Tips for removing 302 with an NP435

Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
38
Loc.
Huntington Beach
I would like some tips from some of you who have been down the road a time or two removing engines from your Bronco.
I have a 71 Bronco with a 302, Novak adapter, NP435 and Dana 20.
The engine needs to be pulled because of knocking that just happened...long story but this is a fairly new engine (<1000) and spared no expense in the build to a 347.
One of the bolts to the engine is simply a bitch to get to. I cannot keep a socket on it and cannot get a wrench on it and be able to turn it. So, I was going to just disconnect the adapter. I didn't do the installation so I'm not sure if that is a good idea. I read another thread on here where people many options but no one that I read just unbolted the adapter.
If you had this configuration in your Bronco and had to pull the engine for engine work, what would you do? More importantly, what would you avoid doing?
Thanks to anyone who can respond.
 

BUCKWILD

Full Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2016
Messages
354
Loc.
Butte county
remove the cross member ( put a jack under the 435) remove the nuts fron the motor mounts and then lower the trans some it will make access easier. put the crossmember back in and leave the jack unter the trans to suport it
 
OP
OP
H
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
38
Loc.
Huntington Beach
remove the cross member ( put a jack under the 435) remove the nuts fron the motor mounts and then lower the trans some it will make access easier. put the crossmember back in and leave the jack unter the trans to suport it



That's good info for pulling the trans but my goal is to pull the engine. Am I missing the point?
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
Unbolting the engine from the transmission so you only have to pull the engine was the point he's making. Pulling the entire drivetrain is a huge pain in the rear end compared to a few minutes fighting 1 bolt and pulling the engine.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,708
Get most of it ready. Pull the motor mounts and lower the engine extra deep into the frame. Access the bolt. Lift motor.

Now if there are other reasons for pulling the transmission with the motor, I've done engine/trans/transfer case a few times. Not bad. Take the shifters off. Drop the crossmember. Add a come-a-long from the transfer case to the lifting hook to get the tail up and over the grill. Need a good flat concrete floor and move gently as you do have a lot of weight up high.
 

gotdads68

Full Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2007
Messages
220
On mine I fought the shift tower of the transmission against the forward-most floor support and the lower engine pulley against the grill maybe. You'll likely have to let it tip pretty low in the rear to make it work, it's kind of a long/awkward setup.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
Pull the radiator and fan and shroud off. They just get in the way and easily damaged. Flop the hood up and tie it in place. I have had one come down on me and was quite the learning experience.
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
8,231
What broncoB says, wiggle the assembly to drop the engine forward and off the mounts, then unbolt, the tranny. Also, they sell very short swivel sockets that do work in that tight spot. Might have to use an impact on it but be careful and not shatter the swivel. I had one and it was on a 351 touching the firewall. As noted, pull the radiator to protect it and give you room.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,452
Which bolt is giving you the fits? I never had any real trouble just pulling the engine and never had to do any contortion trickery to get it out.
I know the upper bell housing bolts are tight to the body, but they weren't so tight I could not get them out.

The tricks of the trade the others are talking about all sound like they'd help a lot. Taking the whole thing out as one unit has been done many times as well, but it's a HEAVY sucker and as awkward as it gets when trying to move it around and angle it out just right.

Good luck either way. Hope your solution ends up being simple.

Paul
 
OP
OP
H
Joined
Dec 15, 2012
Messages
38
Loc.
Huntington Beach
Thanks everyone for the responses. It took me an hour today and using 3 different wrenches to turn it gradually and get it out. Now time to pull the engine.
Paul, this was the bolt on the drivers side just down from the top most bolt. the problem was the bolt was too close to the firewall and sockets would not go on fully and I was afraid of jacking up the bolt head. Finally got it lose by using one wrench to move it a little, then another to move it more than another to move it just a little more then I could go back to the first wrench.
This was the first time I've ran into such a challenge so figured I'd post to get some tips. Thank you everyone.
 

langester

Contributor
MASTER OF MADNESS
Joined
Mar 2, 2013
Messages
2,672
If you don't have one already , you might think about installing a set of body mounts with the built in 1" lift. Might make your life alot easier next time. I sure wouldn't be without mine. Good luck!
 
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