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Tires too big

bmc69

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Jun 11, 2004
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I ran 35" tires on a '69 Bronco that was my daily driver for several years. It had the factory 4.10 gears but a 250 6-cyl transplanted in place of the 170. The truck cruised nicely at 55 and could manage 65 if pushed hard.

Just a point of reference.
 

rekoj71

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Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Messages
361
Personally I don't think you will like the look of the stance if you go less than a 33" tire if you keep the 3" lift. If you switch to a 33" though you will probably still not like the performance unless you also get a gear change. SO if you are going to get a gear change anyway you might as well keep the bigger tires and swap to the deeper gears as suggested above.
 

warthog6x6

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Jun 5, 2016
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88
Loc.
Decatur, Texas
i might be interested in your wheels and tires (35x12.50). If you decide to change you can PM me. I am planning on using either 33's or 35"s. Wart out.
 

okie4570

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One of the u14 66' that I have has a 200 6cyl, 4.56 gears and 225/75/15 tires. It goes great, but it is WOUND UP at 50mph.........so find that happy medium between what I've got and what you've got lol :)
 

RPM289

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Joined
Jan 4, 2008
Messages
835
X2. I second this.

One other thing I want to highly encourage you to do - Enjoy your Bronco and slowly make changes. What I mean is you can start looking at what everyone else has and decide you want to upgrade everything about it (engine, axles, suspension, etc.) then get yourself into a major overhaul. I know because I'm in the middle of that process. You have a solid Bronco it seems, make the few changes you need to be able to have fun while you drive it. Change the gears out, see if you can find a 250, and drive it while having fun the whole time.

I agree with this one I personally like the look of the bronco and a 6 is a great engine, go with a gear change and enjoy riding around in your bronco. Then if you find a bigger 250 - 6 or go 302 gears will still work with them.
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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Well like I said I have a friend that will give me a 302 but it needs to be rebuilt and I think I have a transmission that came with the bronco for a 302. I just didnt know the cost of rebuilding a 302 and what all is involved in swapping from a 6 to 302!
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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Here is another thought. When I bought the bronco the PO had installed the new straight 6 and new clutch as well. I am not sure how much it was driven after that. after talking with a buddy of mine he suggested that it could be the clutch that needs adjusting. Sounded like to him the clutch could be slipping not allowing all of the power to be transferred so therefore the motor was pegged out but only going 20-25 mph. What do yall think???
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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I was wondering this too. How would it effect the driving if the transfer case was shifted in to 4 wheel drive but the hubs not locked in. I know the hubs are not locked in because I just installed a disc break conversion kit but to be honest I have not even checked to see if it is shifted into 4 wheel drive. I have not even tried out the 4 wheel drive to see if it even works. I am going to check this tonight.
 

okie4570

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The transfer case doesn't act differently if the hubs are locked or unlocked. If you're top speed is 25mph and the engine is wound up, it sounds like you're in 4w low. Is the shifter positioned up towards the dash?
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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Like I said I will have to check this when I go home. Its got me curious so I am going to run home after lunch and check this out.
 

Prizefighter

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Feb 24, 2010
Messages
1,192
Maybe the transfer case is shifted to 4-low range?

Great suggestion! When I bought my Bronco it was in 4 low, the previous owner said he left it in 4 low always since it was used around the farm. I think it was also because the engine was low on compression and he was trying to get all he could out of it.

Bdhand, your engine is freshly rebuilt? Another reason to keep it. Sounds like he put some money into it before he sold it to you.
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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Yes the engine is brand new and supposed to be bored over just a bit for the 170. That is what turned me on to this bronco was that the drive train was all complete. All I had to do what cosmetic on body and all the interior. I will check it and let you know. If I can figure out what is going on I would love to keep the straight six and the bigger tires!
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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ok so the 4 wheel drive seemed to be in the N position. I shifted it to the 2H position and I will drive it this evening when I get off and see if that changes anything. Here is a photo of the clutch rod. I am thinking it needs to be adjusted. I think it is too far out and therefore not letting the clutch all of the way out!! Thoughts???
 

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okie4570

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The bronco won't move in the N position. Even though your transfer case shifter is labeled

4L
N
2H
4H

There's actually two L shift "locations" above the N. Both will make the bronco travel in Low gear. Both of my 66' are like this, not sure if other year pre J shift transfer cases are like this or not. How far off the floorboard does the clutch pedal engage?
 

norm02

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Feb 8, 2016
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Here is another thought. When I bought the bronco the PO had installed the new straight 6 and new clutch as well. I am not sure how much it was driven after that. after talking with a buddy of mine he suggested that it could be the clutch that needs adjusting. Sounded like to him the clutch could be slipping not allowing all of the power to be transferred so therefore the motor was pegged out but only going 20-25 mph. What do yall think???

Something isn't right. The 170ci is not a powerful engine but it should do more than 25mph even with much bigger tires than that.
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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The clutch engages towards the top of the travel of the pedal.

So if there are two L positions then it must have been in one of them. What is the best way to get it in 2H. Pull all the way down to 4H and then one click up to 2H???
 

okie4570

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Here's some clutch adjustment info from a 66' dealer training handbook. When you have time this evening, get in and you'll be able to find those positions I'm referring to. Transmission shifter in N, clutch in and both of mine shift smoothly into all transfer case ranges smoothly except for 4H, which I just let out on the clutch slightly and it slips right in.

20160801_160434_zpscci4z6ta.jpg
 
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Bdhand

Bdhand

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This intimidates the heck out of me cause I am not familiar with all of this. When they say clutch travel should be 6 5/8 to 6 7/8 travel is that from all the way pushed in to the top or what??? Also I was told that the rod shown in the picture should be loose almost rattling in between its connection and the release lever. How do I know when loose is loose enough?

you guys ROCK by the way. Thanks for the help!!
 

DirtDonk

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It will never be that loose because the spring is holding the lever against the rod.

Yes, the total pedal travel is just what you said.
If you look up near the top of the pedal arm just below the pivoting point under the dash, there is (or should be) a rubber bumper that stops the pedals upward (toward the driver) travel. This bumper is on an eccentric bolt so as you twist the bolt it moves the pedal closer to the floor or farther away.

Generally speaking, you start with the bumper adjustment, get the clutch pedal as close to the level of the brake pedal as possible (for a starting point) and verify that the available travel from there to the floor is no less than 6 5/8"
Easy to do with a tape measure. You don't have to be precise down to the thousandth of an inch here. Just get it within that range somewhere and you're good.

Then you measure the pedal free play (with your hand is best usually) by lightly pressing the pedal until you feel it stop up against some heavy resistance. Should have at least 1 3/16" before you feel resistance.
If you feel less than 1 3/16" that's when you adjust the rod down at the clutch release lever sticking out of the bell housing.
The "free play" we're talking about here is the distance, or gap, between the throwout bearing and the clutch cover fingers/springs. The bearing can't handle spinning all the time or it will wear out quickly. So this free play you can feel up at the pedal is always very important.

I believe the reason for doing it without the spring installed is more for ease of adjustment than for any truly technical aspect regarding the function.
But I could be wrong, so maybe someone can verify.

Shortening the rod should increase free play.

Paul
 
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