TRO? with stock height suspension and F150 knuckles

[MnCampNHunt]

We have a set of F150 knuckles and a the two P/S boxes to make up a 4x4x2 box. The new plan is to keep it at stock height (new springs and bushings) and run 32x11.5 tires now that a 1990's fiberglass body has been acquired - has cut style rear fenders. 1970 and 1971 frames to work with. Intent is a daily driver / resto-mod (PS/PB)

So question - since the F150 knuckles have a lower arm for the tie-rod ends - can we go TRO (tie-rod over)?

Being a Minnesota truck, we don't want to go heim joints due to the salt on our roads in the winter.

To minimize the cost - what direction do we go with the linkage?
(previously thought we might weld up our own 1-ton TRE system - hoping to avoid that now that the decision to stay at stock height)

Guessing we will need a reamer .

Thanks in advance for the input

 

[MnCampNHunt]

Not planning on any body lift either. Have not yet purchased springs.

 

[SteveL]

There's a 1-ton ch*vy tie-rod swap that should work. Yes will need a reamer and possibly tie-rod conversion bushings from the vendors.

 

[toddz69]

It should work ok. I only have a 1.5" lift on my truck now and still retain the TRO on F150 knuckles, although I use a cut-down F150 linkage, which is similar to the Chevy stuff.

Todd Z.

 

[SteveL]

Hey Todd, I also have the cut down f-150 set-up. Doesn't the chevy swap come from off the shelf parts without the need for cutting or machining?

 

[toddz69]

Hey Todd, I also have the cut down f-150 set-up. Doesn't the chevy swap come from off the shelf parts without the need for cutting or machining?

Generally yes. You need to modify the taper on the old steering stabilizer hole that becomes the drag link hole, but that's about it. I do like that the F150 drag link doesn't appear to 'roll' as much as the Chevy stuff does with initial steering inputs.

Todd Z.

 

[MnCampNHunt]

When you talk about "cutting down" the F150 linkage (obviously it is for the wider axel) :
do you butt weld the cut parts back together?
Sleeve and weld them?
Or machine on threads to use some adjusting sleeve?
We can handle the cutting and welding of a Chevy 1-ton "kit" - but that large dia tubing and the bigger TRE's is more than we need.

 

[toddz69]

When you talk about "cutting down" the F150 linkage (obviously it is for the wider axel) :
do you butt weld the cut parts back together?
Sleeve and weld them?
Or machine on threads to use some adjusting sleeve?
We can handle the cutting and welding of a Chevy 1-ton "kit" - but that large dia tubing and the bigger TRE's is more than we need.

Machine threads and add adjusting sleeves.

Todd Z.

 

[MnCampNHunt]

Thx Todd

 

[DirtDonk]

It’s what I did as well way back when.
Used ‘76 F150 knuckles and brakes.
Cut down and re-threaded tie rod driver side to use stock adjusting sleeve.
Cut down and added adjusting sleeve to drag link.

Originally used the original bronco linkage, but really wanted, an adjustable drag link, and also did not have easy access to the tapered shims that we have nowadays to make the smaller rod ends fit into the bigger F150 holes.
The bonus was a longer draglink and beefier linkage.

 

[MnCampNHunt]

Do you recall if you used the same sleeve on the drag link as the TRE (which it looks like is 1"-18) ?
Will have to find a machine shop with a lathe to cut those threads

 

[SteveL]

I think they're the same but I'm not 100% sure. It's been a while.

 

[lars]

Do you recall if you used the same sleeve on the drag link as the TRE (which it looks like is 1"-18) ?
Will have to find a machine shop with a lathe to cut those threads

These days several vendors offer pre-made tie rod/drag link setups based on the GM parts that are basically ready to go. Just ream the knuckles top down and (I think, it’s been so many years since I did mine) pitman arm for the bigger GM TRE and away you go. You can also buy bulk DOM tubing and weld-in threaded sleeves a la carte and make your own. I tend buy the a la carte bits from Ruff Stuff Specialties because they are convenient to me but there are lots of other vendors. I think Ruff Stuff may even sell complete setups and I think Wild Horses does as well- Paul can weigh in. Oh yeah I have F-150 knuckles as well, 2-1/2” lift but I’ve dropped mine without springs installed and I agree TRO should work fine at stock height with those knuckles.

 

[dmoses42]

Tom's has a tie rod that is made for the F150 knuckles. It's $160 I think. It uses 2 short tie rods on the main shaft connected with sleeves. Not sure if you can do TRO with it, I haven't looked into that.

 

[DirtDonk]

With two adjusters, TRO is not a problem. Usually…
With our kit, and probably Toms (which I can’t look up at the moment) you leave the tie rod center link in its normal position, and simply flip the tie rod ends over to the top.
So all you have to do is ream the holes in the knuckles.
Unlike the GM 1 ton stuff which also has to have the right hand side rod end re-reamed to work on top.

Another advantage to the aftermarket setup is that the draglink remains roughly the stock length.
Keeps geometry more friendly, so to speak.

 

[toddz69]

Another advantage to the aftermarket setup is that the draglink remains roughly the stock length.
Keeps geometry more friendly, so to speak.

And if you have a trac bar like @lars, @garberz, and I do that goes all the way over to the end of the axle, the GM and modified F-150 stuff is great because it keeps our track bar/drag link lengths in sync for minimum bump steer.

Todd Z.