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Truck Wont Move after Disc Brake upgrade

rydog1130

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Ok, so just finally wrapped up the disc swap and maybe did too good of a job...truck acts like it has a parking brake on and won't move. Any thoughts on whats going on? I changed prop valve to disc/disc, used prop valve tool when bleeding brakes, truck has no parking brake btw....stuck piston in caliper???
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Not quite sure, tried pushing it in neutral first since it's in a tight space in my garage, no luck. Then started it and put it in gear and truck did not move with foot off the brake.... thats as far as i got...
 

langester

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Did you change anything with the booster, linkage or master cylinder?
 

Apogee

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Crack the bleeders, then see if it will roll. If you have residual hydraulic pressure, that's the easiest way to check. Did you just convert the rear to disc, or did you convert all four to disc, because given the comment about changing to combination valve to a disc/disc unit, it isn't clear?
 

Butros

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Its been almost 20 years since I did the front disc conversion on my Bronco, but from what I remember, if you are running a drum/drum master there is a residual pressure valve on the mater cylinder output. The pressure will keep pressure on the disc caliper which could be causing it to drag or lock the wheel. The residual pressure valve can be removed or you can swap the master for a disc/disc master.
 

Broncobowsher

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Clearance between knuckle and caliper?

99% sure you didn't make enough clearance. You did grind the knuckle for clearance, right?

Caliper is smashing against the rotor.
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Crack the bleeders, then see if it will roll. If you have residual hydraulic pressure, that's the easiest way to check. Did you just convert the rear to disc, or did you convert all four to disc, because given the comment about changing to combination valve to a disc/disc unit, it isn't clear?

converted all 4 to disc, was told MC i had will work for the upgrade
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Its been almost 20 years since I did the front disc conversion on my Bronco, but from what I remember, if you are running a drum/drum master there is a residual pressure valve on the mater cylinder output. The pressure will keep pressure on the disc caliper which could be causing it to drag or lock the wheel. The residual pressure valve can be removed or you can swap the master for a disc/disc master.

A budy of mine suggested my push rod needs to be adjusted possibly? states i should have 1" of up travel on pedal...will look into that as well
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Clearance between knuckle and caliper?

99% sure you didn't make enough clearance. You did grind the knuckle for clearance, right?

Caliper is smashing against the rotor.

yes knuckle was ground for clearance!
 

Broncobowsher

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yes knuckle was ground for clearance!

But enough clearance for fully assembled? That has bit a lot of people.

Also later, as the pads wear (the outer pad) the caliper shifts inboard bottoming out. Only this time it isn't preload, it is only loading the rotor on one side (inner).
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Update: Front tires spin freely, rear is locked up on both sides
 

Broncobowsher

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Does cracking a rear bleeder free them up?
Double check the park brake. Old cables stick.
 

fstik

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Feb 7, 2004
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Residual valve

Its been almost 20 years since I did the front disc conversion on my Bronco, but from what I remember, if you are running a drum/drum master there is a residual pressure valve on the mater cylinder output. The pressure will keep pressure on the disc caliper which could be causing it to drag or lock the wheel. The residual pressure valve can be removed or you can swap the master for a disc/disc master.

This sounds familiar to me, the residual valve was on the rear brakes. I think that was on the front port on the master cylinder, but not for sure. I remember that you would need to take a sheet metal screw and use it to remove the residual valve. I converted to a disc/disc master cylinder instead.


fstik
 

DirtDonk

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A budy of mine suggested my push rod needs to be adjusted possibly? states i should have 1" of up travel on pedal...will look into that as well

Not sure that's a legit indicator here though. The pedal should come up all the way to where it stops naturally just from the spring pressure in both the master and the booster.
I could be wrong, as these booster setups do have some interesting characteristics.
But how does it feel when pushing on it?

Since you did not change anything with the master/booster setup and it worked before, maybe it's ok. Or maybe it was just ok with drum brakes but now that you have more powerful brakes (by a little bit anyway) and more consistent, perhaps a mis-adjustment is now rearing it's ugly head.
Any residual pressure check valves should be removed, but I've driven Broncos with them left in and they hardly even dragged. So a full lockup seems extreme just for a check valve.
But if you loosen the fitting at the master and it releases the pressure, you might be on to something.

Sounds like you ground enough, but when you look over the top of the tires down at the calipers, can you see daylight between them and the knuckles?

Which rear disc setup did you use? If it's the ones with the finicky parking brake, maybe it's causing some trouble even though they're not hooked up.

And when it comes right down to it, a poorly built prop valve can lock up the brakes. I don't know how, but I've seen it happen. Went through all the checks, and finally just changing to a new valve fixed it.
But that was after determining where in all the lines the pressure was being retained.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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rydog1130

rydog1130

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Thanks guys I kind of ran out of time to finish trouble shooting before I left and I didnt have time to to crack the bleeders on the rear calipers. I went with a parking brake delete set up in the back and used front calipers for an 83 Monte Carlo which was recommended by the kit. The master cylinder is from the vac booster set up the graveyard sells that will work for disc set up. I’ll try checking the spacing on the calipers and pads on the rears next time I get back to the shop. I appreciate all the good advice! I may even call street rod manufacturing out of CO and see if they have any trouble shooting tips
 
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