Trying to avoid knocking my teeth out! Please Help

[Imagator]

I had about 1 1/2 inch's of Bronco lean to the fwd passenger side after I added a 2.5 inch lift (Leaf springs AFT and coils FWD) and replaced just about all my bushings. The springs that I originaly used were stock with a one inch arch so I started there in my attempt to correct the lean. I just replaced the Springs with the proper WH 2.5 inch leafs and it helped but didnt level it out all the way. I still have a little over 3/4 inch lean. So I am thinking It is probably the radius arms.

I found the WH Tech article that tells me how to correct it but being the novice that I am, I need a little more instruction. I dont think I will have any problem breaking the front end down but I am worried about two things.

One, is there a certain order or sequence that I should follow?

Two, What is a safe way to take the springs off ? (I put them on but a friend took them Off while I was doing somehting else) I have visions of them comming off and Knocking my teeth out.

As always, your help is extremely appriciated.

 

[Carl]

Once you get the frame supported and let the front axle hang down, the springs are no longer compressed. So you should be able to just take off the upper and lower spring retainers. I think I did the uppers first then the lowers.

As far as a sequence for the radius arms, I'm not sure because mine still leans. I have to go back and do it again. A few tips: Disconnect the front drive shaft. Remove trac bar. I don't think you need to disconnect drag link from the pitman arm. I didn't. Be sure to replace C-bushings with the proper degree for your lift. I think 2.5 lift is 4 degrees. Use longer 9/16" bolts just to get the caps started.

 

[744x4]

Make sure you get the bushings in right also as they are marked for proper orientation the install the radius arms to the axle on the floor and they should both hit the floor at the same time if they dont that is the cause of the dreaded Bronco lean.Loosen and retighten them till they both hit the floor at the same time.

 

[70_Steve]

One, is there a certain order or sequence that I should follow?

I wrote this in a thread a couple months ago. Not perfect, but pretty close.

1. Support the Bronco by the frame, right behind the bumper. I used standard jack stands, and got a little extra height by stacking 4 or 5 18" lengths of 2x12 under the jack stands. See the pic below.
2. Support the front differental with a floor jack and remove the wheels.
3. Unbolt and remove track bar and drag link. To remove the drag link from the pitman arm, I use the 2 BFH method. Place one BFH firmly against one side of the pitman arm, at the drag link. Firmly smack the othe side of the pitman arm with the other BFH. A couple good smacks and the drag link will pop right out.
4. Remove shocks.
4-a. Disconnect driveshaft at the differential. There's two u-bolts to remove. Be careful not to drop the bearing caps on the u-joint. Use electrical tape, or equivalent, to secure the bearing caps in place.
5. Remove coil springs and their retainers. Might be easier to remove the upper coil spring retainer (the strap at the top of the coil bucket) first.
6. Remove the rear radius arm frame mount nut and associated hardware, and pull the differential forward far enough for the radius arms to clear the frame mounts, but not far enough to snap the brake line. (You still have the differential on the floor jack, right?)
7. Unbolt the radius arm caps and remove the radius arms from the differental.

Pretty much put it back together the opposite of the way you took it apart. Some tips for putting it back together:

Read and understand the Bronco Lean article at the link already posted. Clean the inside of the radius arms and caps, and the axle wedges. Lubricate the c-bushings. This will all aid in getting the c-bushings to seat properly and avoid the Bronco Lean.

To install the front coil springs, put the lower spring bucket and lower retainer in place, and start the two bolts two or three turns. Then place the coil spring overtop the retainer, and "screw" the coil spring into position. Tighten up a bunch on the two bolts, but not all the way. Raise the differential so the spring is in position at the top of the coil bucket. Install the top coil spring retainer. There's a Tech Article on installing this retainer. http://classicbroncos.com/springretainers.shtml . Then finish tightening the bottom two bolts.

 

[Carl]

Hey 70_Steve, I like your step 4a.;D That would have saved me a lot of time. What should we use to lubricate the C-bushings?

 

[Skuzzlebutt]

White lithium grease is what most manufacturers recommend.

 

[scottmcwms]

Not to be cynical, but is 3/4" really that bad. I bet everyone here has at least that much lean.

Scott

 

[FerrumCampitor]

Speak for yourself Scott. My Bronco is perfectly level.
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...when I park it on a hill. ;D

 

[bax]

Mine is level too! Until I sit in it.

 

[broncoguy66]

I'm starting to think that the lean comes from soft suspension springs, and depends on the stresses the tiresput in the suspension at the point of parking. I have a wristed arm, I leave it unlocked all the time. I STILL have the lean. Mine leans to the left, I blame it on me pulling myself in and the springs just settling a little on that side.

Putting the C-bushings on and making sure the radius arms are parallel will definitly help. I won't discourage you from doing that. It will help.

 

[bigmuddy]

I have about a 1/4 to 3/4 depending on what day and where I measure it. For the most part to the nekkid eye it is level. Before I did the bronco lean fix it was about 2-1/4 inches of lean. I think a good bit of the fluctuation is the soft suspension, hands down. Keep in mind that if you are hell bent on getting the c-cap bolts tightened down as far you can get them, your arms will never be parallel. I cheated a little and left them slightly loose when I did mine and figured that as long as I could get the lower coil cup bolts in to hold them down everything else was fine. so far so good.

Ben

 

[Carl]

I have about a 1/4 to 3/4 depending on what day and where I measure it. For the most part to the nekkid eye it is level. Before I did the bronco lean fix it was about 2-1/4 inches of lean. I think a good bit of the fluctuation is the soft suspension, hands down. Keep in mind that if you are hell bent on getting the c-cap bolts tightened down as far you can get them, your arms will never be parallel. I cheated a little and left them slightly loose when I did mine and figured that as long as I could get the lower coil cup bolts in to hold them down everything else was fine. so far so good.

Ben

Thats an interesting idea. The torque spec for the radius arm cap bolts is something crazy like 250 ft.lbs. (I think). I don't think my torque wrench will go that high. I might try that with my Bronco.

 

[Simpson]

As long as we are on the subject of lean. One thing I haven't heard in any of the lean threads but, I suspect to be true is the relation of lean to actual tire load. If the rig leans right then the right front tire will carry more of the front end weight and the left rear will carry less. right? I had an oppertunity to put our race bronco on some circle track scales once and was surprized to see a weight differance between sides front and rear. I have also noticed that when airborn as we land (when in control) one front tire will almost always hit before the other. and when crawling over obsticles the total cross articulation side to side is also different. The lean on our race rig I don't really care about but I am starting to consider all these other factors tward fixing the "lean". Anyone agree?

 

[70_Steve]

I Keep in mind that if you are hell bent on getting the c-cap bolts tightened down as far you can get them, your arms will never be parallel. I cheated a little and left them slightly loose when I did mine and figured that as long as I could get the lower coil cup bolts in to hold them down everything else was fine.

Ben, I hate to disagree, but I tightened the c-cap bolts to spec, my radius arms are perfectly parallel, and my Bronco is within 1/8" of level as measured from the quarterpanel seam to the concrete in my garage. I would also like to say I think it's a really REALLY bad idea to leave critical suspension parts loose.