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twin stick install guidance

1970WagonKY

New Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2004
Messages
128
Loc.
Winchester, KY
Okay is just got a great deal on a twin stick--link ot previous post .

Here is my dilema. How hard is it to take out the pill/detents for a T-shift? I am not inept, but I really haven't ever torn in to a x-case. I want to do it right and get the full use of my twin stick, but I don't want to screw up my x-fer case and have a decommissioned bronco for a couple of weeks.

Any and all advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tim
 
Last edited:

eBronc

Full Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2001
Messages
725
Loc.
Austin, Texas
If you just want to remove the detent balls and springs, they can be easily accessed by simply removing the "bolt plugs" that hold them in - but if you want full, independant shift rail action (front wheel drive only, rear wheel low only, etc), then you'll have to pretty much disassemble the whole thing so you can get to the setscrew that fastens the shift fork to the front shift rail, then you can pull the front shift rail out, which will allow access to the detent rod between the two shift rails.

It's not rocket science, but it is something you want to pay attention to when you're working on it.
 

edge4

Full Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2001
Messages
791
Loc.
Gonzales, Texas
It's not hard , but it requires some specialized tools. To remove the inner pill means a full disassembly. Rebuild requires a hydraulic bearing press and a magnetic base micrometer to measure endplay.
 

SteveL

Huge chevy guy
Joined
Jun 24, 2001
Messages
11,776
Loc.
Hawthorne ca
Are there issues with it slipping out of gear once you remove the detents? I've heard of guys having to bungie their shifters to keep em in high.
 

eBronc

Full Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2001
Messages
725
Loc.
Austin, Texas
SteveL said:
Are there issues with it slipping out of gear once you remove the detents? I've heard of guys having to bungie their shifters to keep em in high.

Just go to the hardware store and buy some slightly stiffer springs for the detent balls.
 

rednck21

Newbie
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
Messages
3,915
i took both "pills" out mine when i rebuilt it and installed my twin stick. it does pop out of high sometimes when i decellerate(sp?), so i bungee mine to the center console %) maybe its just my particulay tcase but its hard to get it in 4high. its a trail rig so it doesnt really bother me.

i hear you can take only one of the pills out and it wont pop out of high.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,515
Full disassembly not needed, even for the inner rail pills!!

I found a trick!! smaller hands are needed so if you have sausage fingers this isn't going to work.

I think you still have to remove the transfer case, but all you need to do is pull the inspection cover, then the cluster gear. Shift to 4LO. Take the allen bit that goes with a drill set (less then an inch long and has a 1/4" end on it for the drill) and slip that into the set screws that are hidden way down inside the case. Then use your 1/4" combination wrench to remove the set screws (they tend to be very tight).

With the set screws out, the detent springs and balls removed, you can remove the rails. It may take some fiddling to get them out (I thing one rail must be in nuetral for the other to come out, then the second rail will come out). Do what you want. Put it back together.

I have personally done it this way! It can be done!

But if you have never taken it apart before, you might as well take a few more bolts off and have a good inspection of your 30~40 year old gears and bearings and go ahread and install new seals while you are at it.

And if you leave a bearing out of the cluster shaft, you can pull that pin with the case installed in the truck. I have done that as well.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Broncobowsher said:
all you need to do is pull the inspection cover, then the cluster gear.
What is "cluster gear" ?? The idler shaft gear? The one in the middle with no input or output??? ?:? ;D I'm very interested in this, as I have my transfer case sitting on the garage floor, waiting on a pilot bushing for my NV4500 install, along with my Tom's twin stick (from the Mass Buy so long ago.. :-[ ) I rebuilt my t-case last year, along with the TeraLow gears, and decided at that time, to leave the detent rods in. Now, of course, I changed my mind, but really couldn't make myself feel good about disassembling that entire t-case again.
 

Brewbro21

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
919
I put a little stiffer springs in when I rebuilt/installed my twin stick and have had no problem with it falling out of gear. I have about 4000 miles on it now, with a lot of shifting into and out of front and rear drive.

I tried to also remove the detent rods/pills without dismantleing the t-case but it was very difficult. Even with the t-case apart it was a little tight to get at the allen bolt. You have way more patience then I could ever imagine to take the rods/pills out without tearing apart the case.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,515
cluster gear, counter gear, idler gear. It's the one in the middle that rides on that giant pin.

I did my twin stick after install the teralows. Didn't want to deal with those bearings again so I didn't.
 

Bart

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 12, 2001
Messages
1,682
Loc.
Buffalo Gap, Texas
Like Broncohowsher, I did it at the same time as the terra low setup. But I realized that I had left the dents in. Before I finished and reinstalled it I was able to go back in, remove the idler gear (center) and maybe the rear setup (that I don't remember) and then with a 90 degree allen wrench, take the set screw out without re-removing the front output assembly (this front assembly it the biatch of the Dana 20). Removing this set screw was like one sixth of a turn at a time until the shift fork and the rod seperated. Then I was able to remove the rail and get the springs and balls out and reinstall the front shift rod into the front shift folk. Correct me if I'm wrong here guys but I remember there to be one ball and spring on the rear shifter (between the two rails) and two for the front shifter. One is between the two shift (rails) and one on the other side of the front shifter rail (that's why I had to move the front shift rail after the partial rebuild. I was following the terra low install instructions, they don't mention this part and I forgot to stop and include it until the later sections of the instructions. A pocket magnet helps get these parts out I might add.
 

BroncoDon

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2003
Messages
174
Loc.
Laguna Hills, CA
For all of you that have done the complete twin stick install was it worth going all the way and removing the detent rods from the shift rails?

I am not totally convinced that I should remove them or not.
 

bronconate68

Full Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2005
Messages
361
Loc.
Vancouver, WA
I did this install and it was totally worth it. I don't know about the slipping out of gear. After I twins ticked the case my shift throws are much deeper. I had problems finding the gears before and it would slip into neutral with a bang when I didn't have it in the exact position.

I pulled the idle gears and cut an allen wrench and took my sweet time getting the set screw freed. It is a piece of cake except for the set screws, but the whole thing only took me a couple of hours. I used a copy of the Manual Tqure posted a link to, just in a different form. It is well worth it in the long run. My T style transfer case is a hell of a lot easier to shift now, and I'm not guessing if it is in gear. Plus the cool factor is way up there with a twin stick.


nate
'68
 

Brewbro21

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
919
Oh hell yeah it's worth it. Being able to shift it into front wheel drive is awesome all in itself. Being a short wheelbase vehicle it's not suppose do to well when slick, well having front wheel drive helps that problem a lot. It you don't remove the rods/pills I don't see the reason to do the twin stick upgrade, other than just making it easier to shift.

Do it, plus it's fun taking that case apart. I imagine it needs rebuilt anyway.
 

Brewbro21

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2004
Messages
919
BroncoDon said:
For all of you that have done the complete twin stick install was it worth going all the way and removing the detent rods from the shift rails?

I am not totally convinced that I should remove them or not.

What's holding you back? Other then the inconvience factor. ;D
 

BroncoDon

Jr. Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2003
Messages
174
Loc.
Laguna Hills, CA
Brewbro21 said:
What's holding you back? Other then the inconvience factor. ;D


I'm all thumbs when it comes to stuff like this. But I guess if I never give it a try I'll never know. My other option is to have my tranny guy do it I guess.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Brewbro21 said:
What's holding you back? Other then the inconvience factor. ;D
As I mentioned earlier, I've got my t-case sitting on the garage floor with Tom's twin stick next to it, waiting for me to reinstall it behind the NV4500 I just got up into place. For me, I just have that little nagging fear of removing the detents, then winding up with it popping out of 2H. That would pi$$ me off! :mad:

So, I have to make a decision real quick. Detent or no detent? ?:?
 

airman

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2003
Messages
1,843
BroncoDon said:
For all of you that have done the complete twin stick install was it worth going all the way and removing the detent rods from the shift rails?

I am not totally convinced that I should remove them or not.

Here's the nice part. Install the twin stick with the t-case still in the truck. If you still want to remove the pills after that then take it all the way out. I hope you have a dremel.

Broncobowsher, you are the man! I want to know how many little cuts you had on your "non-sausage-like" fingers trying to get that set screw loose. You are tough.

70_Steve, you only need to take out one of your 2 pills. Take out the one towards the front wheels. That way you can still have front wheel drive but you cant have H in front and L in back. The shifter will only be able to be one step away from the other one in any direction. If you take out both pills they move freely.

Jeff
 
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