twin stick install guidance

[70_Steve]

70_Steve, you only need to take out one of your 2 pills. Take out the one towards the front wheels. That way you can still have front wheel drive but you cant have H in front and L in back. The shifter will only be able to be one step away from the other one in any direction. If you take out both pills they move freely.

Cool idea. I'd not heard of that option! Gonna hang the t-case off the tranny tonight to get measurements for the driveshafts. Then pull it back down to remove the detent rod this weekend.

Thanks Jeff!

 

[airman]

Cycle it through the gears on the bench because I have only heard this and seen it on paper. I have never actually had a T case rail in my hand only the J case rail. But it makes total sense to me. The cuts on the rails to fit the pills have to be the same don't they? The J case only has the back pill.

Jeff

 

[Broncobowsher]

Broncobowsher, you are the man! I want to know how many little cuts you had on your "non-sausage-like" fingers trying to get that set screw loose. You are tough.
Jeff

I never said that I got out without cuts. Lots of sharp machined edges. Nothing more then just superficial scrapes for me.

I am still working on a way to keep the rear asle in low range. It wants to walk out into nuetral. Right now a big bungee holds it in place. When I have time I will dig into it again and work on it. Right now I want to try some good heavy detent springs. The transfer case shifts so easily now I think the springs lost tension.

 

[lonesouth]

Do i have to have a hydraulic press and magnetic micrometer to do this install or can it be done in the average garage? how much would a shop charge to do this install?

LS

 

[BroncoDon]

70_Steve, you only need to take out one of your 2 pills. Take out the one towards the front wheels. That way you can still have front wheel drive but you cant have H in front and L in back. The shifter will only be able to be one step away from the other one in any direction. If you take out both pills they move freely.

Jeff

Very interesting !! I have been doing extensive research on the Twin Stick install before I proceed with removing the detent rods "pills" and have not come across this suggestion before, and I have read everything I can find on the web. It sounds feasible, Anyone done it that way ???

 

[airman]

Very interesting !! I have been doing extensive research on the Twin Stick install before I proceed with removing the detent rods "pills" and have not come across this suggestion before, and I have read everything I can find on the web. It sounds feasible, Anyone done it that way ???

After further investigation, what I said is not entirely true.

Look at the picture from this older thread showing the rails and pins.
http://www.classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61798

From that I can see that removing one pin will give you the ability to do Front L or H depending on which pin is removed but not both. But since you have the pin out already there are some tactical grinds that you can make to do it right. The rails are different on the inside on T's vs J's.

Thanks 70_Steve for getting me straight.

Jeff

 

[trailpsycho]

Is the magnetic dial indicator something that can be rented? And as was asked, is a press necessary or is it something a BFG or vice will suffice for? I am thinking I may try and tackle this and the NV3550 install this w/e. I am tired of waiting on the rebuilder/dealer to clear his schedule for the install, plus it will save me some $$...its been weeks and I almost feel like I am getting the run around. ?:?

 

[trailpsycho]

Dont think you posted the right thread Airman...that thread is for the TRO parts that BCs is offering.

 

[jimslim]

I did the shift rail mod on my t-shift. well jack obrian did the mod its a little diffrent then whats posted and works great. never pops out of gear and I get front low only with out being able to put rear in high

 

[Brewbro21]

You don't need a micrometer or whatever with a dana 20 t-case, There is no room for adjustment, it is a completely gear driven t-case. I didn't use one and my three other buddies never used one and ours are fine.

You will need a press though, if you don't have access you can get one form harbor freight for next to nothing, it pays for itself with this one job alone.

 

[trailpsycho]

Actually I have a J-shift but it is pretty much the same once inside, I believe. The D20 manual I saw on AZBroncos said to use a dial indicator to check endplay...not saying your wrong...it seems fairly straight forward otherwise. However, I think I will wait til next friday when the rebuilder/dealer will be able to do it. We are doing the T/C rebuild and NV3550 swap all in the same day...hopefully. Everything is ready to go, especially me, I am also planning on putting in a new rear main seal while its apart and up on the lift. I would do it myself this weekend at home, but I have a gravel garage and drive, so it becomes very difficult to do major disassembly using jacks, etc. I really struggled to get the third member in and out by myself back in Feb/March using some metal shelving unde the jack...the D20/Tranny will be much heavier and much more awkard. Plus, this guy is a pro. I was pretty pissed off a couple of hours ago when he let me know that he was going to have to cancel on me tomorrow--again....Family-like thats ever a good excuse. ;D For the warranty and the expertise (good learning opportunity), I will wait and assist him next week in a real shop. Sorry for the vent...its just sooo F#$@ing close and I have never been much on patience, now after a couple of years of waiting... :-X :-X OK I am better. Good afternoon all.

 

[Nobody]

Edit: Is it worth it? Yeah I think so. Front wheel drive hasn't as helpful as I had hoped.

NOTE: J-Shift cases do not require the pills to be removed.

On my case, I modied the rear shift rail to retain the pills. This mod prevents one axle from being shifted into HI and the other LO.

While I was at it, I modified the rear shift rail to make a nice pocket for the Rear Lo detent ball.

Notice on the unmodified rail, it's just a gradual slope and no pocket. I filled in with a little weld, then ground a new pocket in with my dremel. Works great, never pops out of gear.

The shift rails are layed out as they came out of the t-case UPSIDE DOWN on my bench

Modified shift rail. Note the nice pocket for the detent ball.

I was able to remove the shift rails with the front output shaft/gear in place. I did remove the rear output for reassembly.

You get a nice surprise when you pull the idler shaft

All present and accounted for. The trick to getting this back together is to cut a wood dowel the same size as the pin. Then pack the bearings around it with grease. Then install the idler assembly. As you tap in the steel pin, it pushes the wood dowel out the other size. NOTE: the steel pin only can go in from the back side.

Good as new

 

[BroncoDon]

Nobody, Thanks for that post and the pictures.