Uncut Fenders Cutting into rear wheels

[Magnolia]

Hey y’all,

I just purchased a 1970 and am going through the process of making it mine. I’ve identified that when anyone rides in the back of the vehicle it sinks enough that my rear tire walls are getting sliced.

Question - Will adding a 1 to 2 inch body lift fix the problem short term?

Reason - I want to do a suspension change out and lift it but that’s not on the list of priorities. I also really want to enjoy driving it for what it is before I go changing everything.


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[eb-nutt1]

Hey y’all,

I just purchased a 1970 and am going through the process of making it mine. I’ve identified that when anyone rides in the back of the vehicle it sinks enough that my rear tire walls are getting sliced.

Question - Will adding a 1 to 2 inch body lift fix the problem short term?

Reason - I want to do a suspension change out and lift it but that’s not on the list of priorities. I also really want to enjoy driving it for what it is before I go changing everything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What size tires are on it and what size suspension lift/tires are in your future plans? I'm running a 2.5" suspension/1" body on my uncut 69 with 33x10.50-15 tires and have plenty of clearance. A 1" body will probably suffice short term, but if your bronco still has the factory mounts, be prepared for plenty of headaches removing them.


Brian

 

[bmbm]

What size tires are on it and what size suspension lift/tires are in your future plans? I'm running a 2.5" suspension/1" body on my uncut 69 with 33x10.50-15 tires and have plenty of clearance. A 1" body will probably suffice short term, but if your bronco still has the factory mounts, be prepared for plenty of headaches removing them.


Brian

I don't have your problem but I intend to move the rear axle back approximately 1.5" on my 66 along with a decrease in spring height.
You might want to provide details on your tire size, wheels and current suspension setup.

 

[beherzog611]

Good day! I wanted to share some pictures and information about my Bronco build. While I’m having endless challenges with 4r70W transmission conversion I feel I nailed it with my rims and tires. I installed Speedway Smoothie Wheels, 17x7, Gloss White, 5x5/5.5, 4 BS with 235/75/R17 mud/snow tires. They fit great in the uncut wheel well. I have a 2” body lift on the Bronco. I’m not sure if a 4.5 BS would be better but these do not rub at all and look great in the wheel well…. Thought this might help with rim and tire decisions. I’m trying to post pictures….help!

 

[beherzog611]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0c3XFT13reOhSHl31vLcYxfEw

 

[beherzog611]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/023JR5qmXvaTzFxq7EDrs7Lwg

 

[beherzog611]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/059EOctZ_XCJijH4mKBW_6u8w

 

[beherzog611]

The hub caps are
Speedway Smoothie Wheel Hub Cap, 1947 Ford
Part #: 25021947
I painted the FORD red…..

 

[beherzog611]

The hub caps are
Speedway Smoothie Wheel Hub Cap, 1947 Ford
Part #: 25021947
I painted the FORD red…..

Sorry for all the posts! I drilled the hub cap out with a 3-5/8” hole saw….. extremely slow on my drill press. Using the hole saw in reverse may work well…. My drill press does not have a reverse!

 

[jba6555]

A common modification long ago was to simply bend that inner edge up inside your rear fender well. Then you have an extra 1/2" of clearance and no sharp edge to cut the tire.

I ruined the rear tires on a half cab I drove in college. I had the top off, threw a tarp in the back, filled it with hot water, loaded up about 6 or 8 sorority girls and drove around with a mobile hot tub. I could smell the hot rubber, but was too young a dumb to realize what was going on. That one had cut fenders and fender flares though. It was the only time I ever experienced the thrill of "power-steering" in that bronco.

 

[duffymahoney]

Axle back 1" will most likely fix your issue and be the easiest. I would do that first.

 

[Magnolia]

What size tires are on it and what size suspension lift/tires are in your future plans? I'm running a 2.5" suspension/1" body on my uncut 69 with 33x10.50-15 tires and have plenty of clearance. A 1" body will probably suffice short term, but if your bronco still has the factory mounts, be prepared for plenty of headaches removing them.


Brian

Rims: 15” Aluminum Pacers
Tires: Toyo A/T 28” 215/75R/15
Suspension: base suspension no modifications as far as I’m aware.
Attached are photos of the wear on the tire along with a ruler marking different drop with different weight.

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[Madgyver]

30"x9.50"s will be better if you're not cutting fenders.
stay away from a bodylift as your solution.

 

[serial car restorer]

Those look like standard offset 15x7 wheels with small, factory size tires. No way those should rub there if everything else is right. I'm wondering about a previous axle swap, with too wide a track.

 

[eb-nutt1]

Factory springs are shot and have no load carrying capacity, hence the severe drop with very little weight added to the rear...you also either have a wheel off set problem, or axle weight problem if it is rubbing both tires equally...it should never rub that tire size even with worn rear springs, they should tuck inside the fender lips fine.

 

[serial car restorer]

Or maybe someone added wheel spacers to the rear?

 

[bmbm]

A common modification long ago was to simply bend that inner edge up inside your rear fender well. Then you have an extra 1/2" of clearance and no sharp edge to cut the tire.

I ruined the rear tires on a half cab I drove in college. I had the top off, threw a tarp in the back, filled it with hot water, loaded up about 6 or 8 sorority girls and drove around with a mobile hot tub. I could smell the hot rubber, but was too young a dumb to realize what was going on. That one had cut fenders and fender flares though. It was the only time I ever experienced the thrill of "power-steering" in that bronco.

We've all wanted to do that. Tires were cheap back then. Commendable initiative sir. Pics would be an outstanding enhancement to my day.

 

[bmbm]

Your wheel width and offset would be good to know. As stated rolling the inner fender edge will probably solve the problem at low or no cost. Moving the axle back just looks better too as tire is more centered in the opening. Unless your body mounts have been replaced they are shot, probably real flat, so if you replace those definitely consider a 1" body lift at same time. It may give enough of a lift look to avoid lifted springs if you are on the fence about that. A 2" body lift can involve other work so why I went with 1". And if rear springs are original then yes they are sagging and also contributing as previously stated.

 

[Magnolia]

Factory springs are shot and have no load carrying capacity, hence the severe drop with very little weight added to the rear...you also either have a wheel off set problem, or axle weight problem if it is rubbing both tires equally...it should never rub that tire size even with worn rear springs, they should tuck inside the fender lips fine.

It isn’t rubbing both tires equally it’s much worse on the rear passenger wheel than the rear driver wheel.

I’m going to pull off the wheels and look for spacers next.

I know my suspension is shot. I was just hoping to hold off on spending the money on suspension and first put disc brakes in but if I have to do both at once so be it.

Thanks everyone for the help this is my first solo venture into working heavily on vehicle. I’m sure you’ll see me with many more questions as time passes.


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[DirtDonk]

You can tell whether or not you suspension has sagged, by a quick measurement between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail.
Grab a tape measure and see what those readings are. If the front is near 7 inches and the rear is near 6 inches, then you really haven’t lost any height or over the years.