Upper trackbar bolt issues... I've never seen anything like this...WTH

[bigmuddy]

Is the thread damage from its resting position in the frame bracket?
If you are replacing the bolt, can you get one slightly longer so the smooth shank rests in the bracket instead?

Good catch .94OR!

 

[catfan]

Is the thread damage from its resting position in the frame bracket?
If you are replacing the bolt, can you get one slightly longer so the smooth shank rests in the bracket instead?

That's a 3 1/2" bolt if you use a 4" you would have to use washers on the outside , 3 3/4 might work but I would saw it off some.

 

[skrit]

Is the thread damage from its resting position in the frame bracket?
If you are replacing the bolt, can you get one slightly longer so the smooth shank rests in the bracket instead?

I'm not sure where the thread damage came from because it was inside of a steel bushing sleeve. It must have embedded itself into it due to a slight size variation - I even had anti-seize on it.

 

[skrit]

I can't see the video. Not supported or something to that effect.
There is always the possibility, though extremely slim, that somehow the bolt has rusted to the inner sleeve. But it's a zinc plated bolt from the other pics, correct? And the sleeve is probably plated as well? Any grease or anti-seize in place? If it was stainless and stainless, I could see things jamming/galling up. But plated on both? The words "slim chance" don't even come close!

But either way, why are you messing about with any kind of alignment? You're not trying to center the axle at this state, are you? And neither toe-in, nor camber/caster are effected by the trackbar. Or are you messing about with aligning the trackbar and draglink? Now that would mean removing the bar most likely!
So unless you really have to remove it, just step back and curse at it from a distance. No more loss of hair of sanity for a few minutes/hours/days/weeks/months/years (oh no!!) if you don't have to.

But if you're messing with the bracket height, start whacking it again!
How long is the shank? How many threads inside? Did you fully torque it during the last installation? Just wondering if the shank had pulled through the bracket and the threads got distorted when torqued.
Looks like a high grade bolt, so a distortion is not likely unless you used an impact gun.
If the sleeve was long enough, and you torqued it hard enough, perhaps the inner sleeve is what's distorted and clamping on the bolt to the point that the threads are catching.
Did the bolt come out at all? Or is it stuck fully right up to the head?

And lastly, speaking of air guns... Do you have an air-chisel? Maybe a punch head on it and let it fly on the bolt.
Just be sure to wear ear protection!

Paul

Paul,

I was trying to adjust the tierod to align the front wheels. I had taken the linkage all apart to clean and paint. I ran some strings parallel with my rear wheels and noticed the front wheels are slightly off (more distance from string to wheel on one side than the other maybe 1/2"). Took the trac bar off to get the axle centered. Matt from Matt's Garage on Youtube had a similar experience based on a new video he posted.

. I'm planning on replacing the stock trac bar with an adjustable to possibly correct the centering.

 

[DirtDonk]

Possibly because of the natural offset/twist, from installing a stock track bar into the bracket at that much suspension extension.
Naturally, as the suspension extends, and the axle goes further away from the frame, while the radius arms are anchored at the other end, the axle (and therefore the lower track bar mount) tilt quite a bit.
So getting it in that upper track bar mount is sometimes quite a chore.
in fact, we usually recommend here that you don’t even try it when the vehicle suspension is that extended, until the vehicle weight is back to normal.
Compress it, or just leave the track bar uninstalled until the suspension is weighted down more.

Maybe the misalignment caused some of the trouble? Just a guess, but it is something that might have happened here.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry, my last post was about what might’ve happened to the upper track bar bolt. Didn’t see your most recent post until just now.

But I will say it here again. Stop trying to align anything until the vehicles suspension is at the normal ride height.
Can’t say that enough.
It’s absolutely useless to try to center the axle now, and then compress the suspension with the full vehicle weight, only to have the front axle shift off to the passenger side by the same amount that you just corrected for.
The adjustable bar is a good thing, for both axle alignment and upper mount alignment. But trying to adjust it at this stage your build is an exercise in futility.

 

[skrit]

Sorry, my last post was about what might’ve happened to the upper track bar bolt. Didn’t see your most recent post until just now.

But I will say it here again. Stop trying to align anything until the vehicles suspension is at the normal ride height.
Can’t say that enough.
It’s absolutely useless to try to center the axle now, and then compress the suspension with the full vehicle weight, only to have the front axle shift off to the passenger side by the same amount that you just corrected for.
The adjustable bar is a good thing, for both axle alignment and upper mount alignment. But trying to adjust it at this stage your build is an exercise in futility.

Understood - I'm OCD . I guess I figured the body wouldn't add that much weight on the front and it's much easier to work on the chassis with it off. The heavy stuff is already on it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok, so is this the stock height build? If stock are you at approx. 7" between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail? If so, then you can set the centering of the front axle after all.
Once you get the adjustable trackbar, set it up for center at the 7" height, and you should be good to go.

Paul