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US Shift Quick 4 Low Range Logic

JSmall

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Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
Looking for a little help programming Table 2 for low range operation. I have made a copy of my Master (Table 1) map to alter for low range operation and use with low range at the press of a button...trying to anyway.

I have never wheeled an automatic so I have been asking Brian (nvrstuk) a few questions. Since 1st is so far away from Reverse with the Winters shifter I would like to do most of my crawling in Drive (3) and have the controller hold 1st longer. Easier to go from Drive to Reverse in a hurry. Does that make sense?

tjsaT2v.jpg


If that makes sense, how would I set up the controller to hold 1st for longer while in Table 2. This is the current pattern.

6CJ02ax.png


From the manual -

"The graph has ten points from left to right, 0 being idle and 9 being Wide-OpenThrottle (WOT). On the left side of the graph is the shift speed. When you hover
over a graph point, you can also see the corresponding shift speed in RPM or
the applicable unit values for items other than shift points. Click on a point in the
graph to select it."
 
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JSmall

JSmall

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Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
With the current Table 2 map it shifts to 2nd very quick. You can see the button that I am trying to wire that will work with the controller to go between maps. I thought I had it figured out, but it ended up not working.
Cvrz3vw.png

fvnbkkq.png


Instead of grounding the purple wire like the directions state, I am using a single click of the controller to toggle maps. That will work until I can get the wiring figured out for the switch.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
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Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,462
I did it a little different. I set the 1>2 shift points below ~20% throttle to 0 MPH. This gave me a start in 2nd gear and avoided the quick 1>2 shift. When I really need that extra gear I would just manually shift there. Which I didn't need most of the time. I also ran a simpler Lokar or column shifter that never bothered me dropping those 2 gears from D to 1.

Side benefit of that was on the street I could idle at traffic lights and not push through (in 2WD high). As soon as the light turned I would go right through that shift point and it would drop the 2nd gear and you would never feel the shift to 1st off the line. Didn't need once I got hydroboost.

I recall I just stretched out the upshift and downshift points a bit so it wouldn't jump around as much when in low range. A lot more gear hold at very low throttle opeinings. Very high RPM for very little throttle opening for the upshift, pretty much made it a lift off the throttle to upshift. Downshifts were also at the edge of the table. You had to work to get a shift out of the transmission. I just didn't like gear changes when trying to do anything technical. Hold the gear and let me modulate the throttle.

Try something and drive it. When you get mad because it shifted where it shouldn't have, move the lines to hold the gear it should stay in.
 
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JSmall

JSmall

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Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
I did it a little different. I set the 1>2 shift points below ~20% throttle to 0 MPH. This gave me a start in 2nd gear and avoided the quick 1>2 shift. When I really need that extra gear I would just manually shift there. Which I didn't need most of the time. I also ran a simpler Lokar or column shifter that never bothered me dropping those 2 gears from D to 1.

Side benefit of that was on the street I could idle at traffic lights and not push through (in 2WD high). As soon as the light turned I would go right through that shift point and it would drop the 2nd gear and you would never feel the shift to 1st off the line. Didn't need once I got hydroboost.

I recall I just stretched out the upshift and downshift points a bit so it wouldn't jump around as much when in low range. A lot more gear hold at very low throttle opeinings. Very high RPM for very little throttle opening for the upshift, pretty much made it a lift off the throttle to upshift. Downshifts were also at the edge of the table. You had to work to get a shift out of the transmission. I just didn't like gear changes when trying to do anything technical. Hold the gear and let me modulate the throttle.

Try something and drive it. When you get mad because it shifted where it shouldn't have, move the lines to hold the gear it should stay in.

I really like the tune that I have in Table 1 so I plan to keep that for now. It drives great around town. I will try a few things for the low range map and see how I like it. I was curious if others have done the same and what the map looks like.

Table 1
QdQ1Yto.png
 
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JSmall

JSmall

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Messages
3,223
All good. Thanks!

I went out and messed with the shift points while in low range, and all the changes I made had the same results. Maybe it's because I have never had an automatic in a trail rig before, but it feels like the trans upshifts to 2nd way to quick. When putting the trans into 1st, it feels just like I would expect..low with the 3.8 Atlas.

As soon as I put it into Drive, it goes through the gears and doesn't feel like it will be low enough while in the rocks. Again, this could be normal, and I have no idea how autos work :eek:
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
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Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,462
That is where I set the 1 to 2 shift point to 0 MPH. Leaves the line in 2nd gear. You don't get that 3 MPH jerky 1 to 2 shift.

Also where I bumped the shift points, let the engine rev a bit more and not just shoot through the gears super quick. You can get more control and go slower by letting the engine rev and not just jump through all the gears. Just off the top of my head, pick all the shift points at low speeds to 2000 RPM.
 
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Yeller

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JSmall

JSmall

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EricLar80

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Jun 14, 2001
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All good. Thanks!

I went out and messed with the shift points while in low range, and all the changes I made had the same results. Maybe it's because I have never had an automatic in a trail rig before, but it feels like the trans upshifts to 2nd way to quick. When putting the trans into 1st, it feels just like I would expect..low with the 3.8 Atlas.

As soon as I put it into Drive, it goes through the gears and doesn't feel like it will be low enough while in the rocks. Again, this could be normal, and I have no idea how autos work :eek:

If you are driving with a light foot then it will switch pretty early because you are not asking for the power to be there. If you want it to shift later, then raise the solid lines up at the low throttle position.

The speed sensor is after the transfer case so the RPMs will be higher when it shifts while in low, but the speed will remain the same. Mine mostly stays in 1st while wheeling with my settings and doesn't shift up until I get on a dirt road to the next trail. If you are in sand then there isn't much you can do except manually put it in gear since you will be on an off the throttle with a lot of wheel spin, so the computer has no idea what is actually happening.

Lastly, you get torque multiplication with the torque converter in an auto trans, so you don't have to keep throttle up as much as you do with a manual transmission with the same first gear ratio.
 
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JSmall

JSmall

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Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
If you are driving with a light foot then it will switch pretty early because you are not asking for the power to be there. If you want it to shift later, then raise the solid lines up at the low throttle position.

The speed sensor is after the transfer case so the RPMs will be higher when it shifts while in low, but the speed will remain the same. Mine mostly stays in 1st while wheeling with my settings and doesn't shift up until I get on a dirt road to the next trail. If you are in sand then there isn't much you can do except manually put it in gear since you will be on an off the throttle with a lot of wheel spin, so the computer has no idea what is actually happening.

Lastly, you get torque multiplication with the torque converter in an auto trans, so you don't have to keep throttle up as much as you do with a manual transmission with the same first gear ratio.

That makes sense. I raised all the shift lines up about 15 mph and got about the same result. I shifted into 2nd quick.

I'm curious if it has something to do with the Quick 4 using the OSS in the trans instead of the VSS in the tcase.
 

EricLar80

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Jun 14, 2001
Messages
2,170
I'm curious if it has something to do with the Quick 4 using the OSS in the trans instead of the VSS in the tcase.

I think you may be right about that, actually. But it shouldn't shift at the same point if you raised it up... If you want the same shift point (in MPH), just multiply your hi gear shift point by the ratio of your transfer case.

ie (15 MPH)*(2.46 gearing) = 37 MPH
 
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JSmall

JSmall

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Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
I think you may be right about that, actually. But it shouldn't shift at the same point if you raised it up... If you want the same shift point (in MPH), just multiply your hi gear shift point by the ratio of your transfer case.

ie (15 MPH)*(2.46 gearing) = 37 MPH

That makes sense. Increasing the shift points helped, but it didn't feel like it was holding 1st like I thought it should. I might not have increased it as much as needed. I will use your math above and see how it feels.

I appreciate the help
 
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