Warn hubs fixed

[bralston]

Okay guys. My warn hubs wouldn't engage so I read a bunch of information on the web and tore them apart. I found two springs, one in the lockout and one behind the big gear. I took the one behind the big gear out and left the flat spring attached to the hub in. Is this going to work?? How will the hub disengage??

thanks, hope I haven't screwed it up

Brad Ralston --

 

[bralston]

Should I have left the big spring out anyone ??

 

[DirtDonk]

Absolutely yes. You did the right thing. From what it sounds like, the original Spicer hub spring was left in when the Warn hub was installed. It's a VERY common mistake and the spring will eventually chew up the back side of the aluminum hub.
The only springs are inside the hub's locking mechanism and the little springy thingy inside the knob cover. Niether of those are normally removed at any time. They stay locked up inside their respective casings.

Hopefully you caught it in time and did not end up with damaged hubs or too much material floating around in the grease.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oops. I just re-read your post and now it sounds like you removed one of the springs from the actual inside of the Warn's aluminum locking splined hub. Is that correct?
If so, then no, your hub will not reliably dis-engage. The spring inside the chrome cap pushes against the inner splined engagement gear, and the larger spring underneath that will push it out. Unlocking it when you put the knob in the "free" position.

What were the hubs doing that you took them apart in the first place? Normally they don't need to be dis-assembled. Chances are it's just worn out. How smooth is the innermost splined ring (the one that engages the axle shaft) spinning in the aluminum slug (the main body that engages the outer hub)?
If it's loose and wobbly, then your hub is worn out and needs replacing. Also a very common thing these days.

Hope it's just gummed up and needs to be cleaned and re-lubed. But the springs stay in there.

If it's the big spring that is not encapsulated in anything (like I described previously) then it's not supposed to be there.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[bralston]

Yeah, I just have two springs now. One behind the big gear to disengage and the other wave spring thats part of the hub cap. I completely cleaned everything out and it still won't engage. I'm thinking I may have to find a stronger spring to replace the wave spring. I just don't see how my wave spring is strong enough to push back the disengage spring. Any thoughts?

 

[DirtDonk]

Does it engage by hand easily? If not then a new spring isn't going to do it either most likely.
And another spring won't be an easy thing to find unless you have a spare set of hubs laying around for parts. If it's the spring that's whacked out, you should probably just get new hubs. If you're the original purchaser, they would be covered under the lifetime warranty anyway.
If not, then maybe someone's got an old set they're throwing away that you can scavenge things from.

When you're testing for locking, are they in or out of the vehicle? Are you making sure that the inner sleeve's splines are lined up with the gear by spinning it? If they're not, then the steel gear won't slide in the aluminum splines.
You probably know that and tried it, but I figured I'd mention it anyway.

How easy is it to push the steel gear into the aluminum slug? It should glide pretty easily, but with some resistance from that inner spring. It'll wobble in the slug of course, but it shouldn't get cocked off sideways enough to bind things up. On the other hand, if the inner sleeve is all worn out and getting cocked off-center, then the steel gear may not slide over it either.
So check the inner axle sleeve to make sure it's not all wobbly (very common wear item) and maybe causing trouble.

You've probably already messed with all that since you've had it apart, but those are the only things I can think of. They're not generally considered repariable items, and Warn does not usually sell individual replacement pieces. Even their "rebuild" kits are usually just new screws and seals, but you can check with them to see if new springs come in them nowadays too. If you try to buy pieces, or warranty them directly (as opposed to through a retail store), they'll usually just sell you the whole assembly, minus the knob set.

One more thing. If you're testing this on the vehicle, how are your wheel bearings? If they're loose enough, their could be enough pressure on the hub pieces to allow them to bind up slightly. It's a long-shot, but probably possible.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[bralston]

thanks man. I appreciate the response. I may just have to buy new ones.