It can be made to work with steering involved, BUT the primary drag-link has to run parallel to radius arms or main linkage in a push/pull orientation. Then you'll either need a GM Square Body's 4WD Steering arm on the driver's knuckle or a bell-crank mounted on the axle housing with a secondary drag-link attached to the right knuckle or the tie-rod.
Which means that either the steering box needs to be mounted back at the radius arm frame mount, or there is yet another drag-link running back there from a front mounted steering box to some sort of idler arm.
There is or was a mid 50's era Chevy (GMC?) pick-up running around NorCA with this lay-out under it. No idea how well it worked as I only saw it parked. With all of that linkage in the steering I have a hard time thinking that it was very precise. Getting all of those relative geometries set up correctly seems like a LOT of work.
One of the aftermarket EB fame builders briefly had a chassis with a front Watts linkage and mostly std steering. It was a flash in the pan, gone before many saw it. They had the whole Watts linkage laid flat, the toggle link at the middle of the linkage rotated about a vertical axis.
If you model the linkage design (single ply cardboard and thumb-tacks on graph paper is how I did it) and play around with it you'll see that it does not move in a truly linear path. the middle of it's travel path is very close to linear, but the ends of the travel path are quite curved and in directions opposite of each other. The length of the toggle link seems to have a large effect on the shape of the travel path, but the ratio of the link's lengths is also critical to the shape of the travel path. God help you if you move one o the frame mounts out of "square" with the rest of the linkage.
Also, the height of the toggle link's center bearing determines the Roll Center of the suspension. Where that ends up due to other factors that force it's location is not always desirable.
