Wedge shim under spring to straighten?

[DC_Gearhead]

Has anyone tried putting a wedge shim under the front spring to make them align better after a lift? I’ve been looking at my crooked springs for a while and it annoys me. I have a 3” lift. Well I was rebuilding and regearing my front diff and decided to check my pinion angles on front and back. It was a good time since I was rebuilding my drive shafts and axles too. Well my rear was 10 degrees so I bought a 4 pack of 7 degree shims to get my rearend to fix that, then when putting my front in back together I had the idea to cut up one of those extra 7 degree shims to put under my spring cup. They were $4/each.

Does anyone see any issues with that? I cut the shim to cover the flat part where the cup sits, so it seems like it would work. The surface is pretty flat, but I was thinking i would grind /file it flat as well.

Pics of my idea and my beautiful drive shafts. People really underestimate how much of a PITA it is to rebuild those drive shafts with the carden joint.

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[Apogee]

I don't see any issue with putting as thick or thin a shim as you like, tapered or not, under the spring cups, as the radius arms and track bar locate the axles, so aside from the spring, there are no other forces there. This isn't like the old rule about not using blocks to lift front leaf sprung rigs, as there are no such forces on the spacers you're proposing.

FWIW, I'm pushing my lower spring cups rearward to account for the axle being pushed 1.75" forward, but I have some blocky CAGE radius arm mounts that I can add an additional tapped hole in, so my cups will mount directly to the rear portion only and I'll put what looks like it's going to be a 1/2" steel plate under the cup to get me where I want to be with respect to ride height, though that could certainly change as I add weight up front with a new bumper, winch, etc.

 

[DirtDonk]

Was it Ron Boggs that used to make and sell them back 20 years ago or so?
Never very popular probably because of the cost for the thick expensive high-strength steel used.

Paul

 

[DC_Gearhead]

I don't see any issue with putting as thick or thin a shim as you like, tapered or not, under the spring cups, as the radius arms and track bar locate the axles, so aside from the spring, there are no other forces there. This isn't like the old rule about not using blocks to lift front leaf sprung rigs, as there are no such forces on the spacers you're proposing.

FWIW, I'm pushing my lower spring cups rearward to account for the axle being pushed 1.75" forward, but I have some blocky CAGE radius arm mounts that I can add an additional tapped hole in, so my cups will mount directly to the rear portion only and I'll put what looks like it's going to be a 1/2" steel plate under the cup to get me where I want to be with respect to ride height, though that could certainly change as I add weight up front with a new bumper, winch, etc.

Great idea for moving the cup. It’s really not a huge deal. Since I had it apart I figured I’d try to get the geometry right. I put one of the shims in tonight and it improves the angle some. Not a drastic change but noticeable for sure.


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[DC_Gearhead]

Was it Ron Boggs that used to make and sell them back 20 years ago or so?
Never very popular probably because of the cost for the thick expensive high-strength steel used.

Paul

Hey Paul. It’s been a while.

I’m only doing it because I’m bored. Basically I looked at the steel shims sitting on my bench and said to myself “what else could I use these for?”

Amazon changed things. A couple years ago those wedge shims were like $40 each. Last week, I bought 4 for $20 on Amazon. They are 6x2-1/4 and 7 degree.


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[DirtDonk]

I forgot to ask one of the first things I thought of when I read your question initially. Are the springs bowing in one particular direction? Or just around?
Coil springs have tendencies, and FORD radius arm/trackbar setups make them work overtime.
Looks like you have an adjustable trackbar so you’re OK centered-wise.
Theoretically then, you shouldn’t have a sideways bow. But it wouldn’t hurt to verify center when you’re at ride height.
The main bowing typically is from the tilt of the radius arms and spring cups angling downward, which bows the springs generally out towards the front.
But, coils being coils, that bowing might take on any direction. So you can play around with shims and axle center and maybe get things pretty close.
The shims I remember from Ron back in the day were quite thick and quite angular. No idea what the degree angle was on them, but it was pretty substantial.
I like your idea of utilizing existing spring shims. Seems like they would give the spring cup more support. Make sure you use some good quality bolts. If the old ones look at all compromised, I would get new ones.