• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

WH twin stick shifter won't shift

BRONCITIS74

Full Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
340
I have a 74 Bronco with a Wild Horses twin stick shifter. The stick on the right that controls the back wheels works fine. It shifts from N to 4Hi then up to 4Lo. The shifter on the left, that controls the front wheels, will shift from N to 4Hi, but makes a terrible "clunk" when shifting back to N. The lever won't even go into the 4Lo position. It all worked when the AX15 trans and twin stick shifter was installed. I haven't used 4wd for quite awhile and am wondering if any of you guys have experienced this. What needs to be done? Does the Dana 20 transfer case need to be rebuilt? All help is appreciated...thanks
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,335
Make sure the shifter isn't contacting the floor or anything else. Might be a loose shift fork inside the D20.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,335
So the transfer case needs to come out and be looked at?

Only if you've eliminated all the easy stuff. After you're done looking at it you might take the bottom cover off and see if that front shift fork wants to move independently of the rail it's attached to. It shouldn't.
 

FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
1,443
Loc.
Polk County, Missouri
Had you done anything work mod wise to it since you put the twin sticks in? Make sure you are using the same shift (in and out of 4wd) technique that you used when it was new.

I can not see it going bad from setting or lack of use. It all the shift lever hdwr tight (or not to tight), bushing good? Levers not hitting anything floor wise?

Are you unlocking the hubs and shifting out of 4wd on dirt? Are you backing up just a bit to unload the drive line? Maybe a idle roll shift and out?

There are some published techniques for twing sticking.

"Dana 20 shifting: General most people find the Dana 20 hard to shift. Installing a twin stick will make it easier. It should help to understand what's going on inside the T-case. The Dana 20 is a non-synchronized transfer case. When shifting sometimes the gears are hitting each other head on and when that's the case it's simply not going into gear. Just a slight movement of the vehicle forward or back is often all that is needed to get the gears to be in position to mesh. Sometimes it will take a few attempts."
 

Attachments

  • twin stick 1.jpg
    twin stick 1.jpg
    102.9 KB · Views: 38
  • twin stick 2.jpg
    twin stick 2.jpg
    87.2 KB · Views: 31
  • twin stick 3.jpg
    twin stick 3.jpg
    106.3 KB · Views: 42

BUCKWILD

Full Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2016
Messages
351
Loc.
Butte county
I believe that is an adjustable linkage on the shifters ( i could be wrong but most are) You need to check the linkage adjustment also
 

FordBronc

Contributor
Bronco's, yea I have a couple.
Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
1,443
Loc.
Polk County, Missouri
If it is a J shift D20 twin stick, no adjustment option that I have ever seen. T shift yes twin stick does/should have adjustable linkage.
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,058
Start with the obvious...
You do have the rear axle in low range before trying to shift the front into low.
I know the T-shift has interlock pills that (unless you took the transfer case apart to remove them) prevent the front axle from going into gear unless the rear axle is in that range first. And the opposite, can't shift the rear unless the front is in neutral first.

Don't know J-shift enough to answer that one.

As for the front clunk when going to neutral, was that because you had the drivetrain bound up and the extra leverage of the twin stick allowed you to force the bound gears to disengage? That is what it sounds like you did. Best thing there is to just slip the front into neutral while cruising along in a straight line. Not while stopped.
 
OP
OP
BRONCITIS74

BRONCITIS74

Full Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
340
Thanks for all the tips, guys. I will try them and let you know what happened.
 
OP
OP
BRONCITIS74

BRONCITIS74

Full Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2015
Messages
340
I got it to work!! Shifted the rear into 4Lo and the front went right in. Thanks for all the help.
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,335
Sounds like the interlock pill is still there and functional.

Only the T has that interlock action. With the J anything goes once the flags are cut. The single pill in the J is just there to limit maximum gear travel (keeping the low range gears aligned).
 
Top