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What do you all think of the Method Bead Grip Wheels?

RhodyBennett

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Jan 1, 2022
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Hi All, So after doing some more research I came upon the Method Bead Grip wheels and would like input from those who have had experience with these. As noted in my other recent post, I have been considering the Hutchinson Rock Monster Beadlocks but the Method Bead Grip wheels have some distinct advantages that are tough to ignore. They are A LOT less expensive than the Hutchinson's, require much less maintenance and are fully DOT approved. From on-line information they appear to perform quite well with rock crawling with people airing down to even 6-8psi in Moab and other areas and some videos showing rigs airing down with Bead Grips to 2-3psi in deep snow with heavy rigs, etc, not having issues on the trail. They may be the solution I am looking for without the extremely high cost of the Hutchinson's and can eliminate the added maintenance needs of beadlocks, along with piece of mind of having fully DOT approved wheels. Appreciate your input.
 
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Broncobowsher

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That the one that uses a bunch of large bolts radially through the wheel just inboard of the bead?
 

Yeller

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@Broncobowshe, he’s asking about Method Bead Grip, passive technology that removes all special installation issues that tire shops have issues with any type of beadlock whether it be a traditional bolt on ring, Icon's bolt through rim or Huthcinson's multi piece wheel. I don't own a set but my observations match the online claims. If I ever change wheels on 2 of my rigs, they will be getting the nod.
 

jamesroney

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@Broncobowshe, he’s asking about Method Bead Grip, passive technology that removes all special installation issues that tire shops have issues with any type of beadlock whether it be a traditional bolt on ring, Icon's bolt through rim or Huthcinson's multi piece wheel. I don't own a set but my observations match the online claims. If I ever change wheels on 2 of my rigs, they will be getting the nod.


The Method Bead Grip is a derivation of the Sauer patent 2,198,978 of 1940. This patent was famously gifted to the entire automotive community by Chrysler. It is the original safety bead patent. Later, in 1976, William Glasenaap from BFGoodrich received us patent 3,977,727 for the radial barb bead seat. This was an improvement to the bead seat floor to add barbs. In 2021, Kleinschuster from Custom Wheel House, DBA Method Wheel received US patent number 10.974,543 for the remarkably similar barbed seat depicted in claim 1 of the Glasenaap patent.

Where the claim of the BFG patent uses axially outward barbs, The Claim of the Method patent demands an additional axially "inward" barb. You can see the inward barb in the Method marketing pic. It's the inner barb that faces backwards. Any other manufacturer can use the BFGoodrich patent to achieve the same result. So this "tech" is 40 year old expired IP running around with an added barb of dubious utility.

The only question is: How much does it actually increase bead retention, and how much does it damage the bead seat on removal? The installation problem has been averted, but the removal problem is now greater. But that is not a problem that Method has to deal with.
 

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ntsqd

heratic car camper
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All of those barbs and what-not don't do much to stop the tire from spinning on the wheel. They mostly try to stop the bead from popping loose. Spinning on the wheel is what originally drove the use of bead-locks in motorsports.

BTW, NOTHING is "DOT approved", the process doesn't work that way. The Mfg certifies that their product meets the DOT spec(s) and maintains the Q/A-Q/C paperwork to prove that they've continued to make the products the same way as those that were tested for DOT compliance. When someone is selling something as "DOT Approved" it's purely marketing and means less than the ink used to print it. My Jr. High required class on Propaganda sure made me a cynic....

The German TUV, OTOH, does approve automotive parts. If a part is "TUV Approved" then they did approve it and they audit the production to confirm that the parts continue to meet the spec. By happy coincidence the DOT and the TUV use extremely similar standards, so if something is TUV approved it is most likely DOT compliant.
 

Yeller

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I try to stay away from "DOT approved" conversations. When I was building suspension components for sale to the public, my attorney and I dug deep, spent a truck load of research hours and the findings were uninterestingly dumb and not worth the effort but felt comfortable about any potential liability.

great information @jamesroney!

On to the OP's question. My observations have agreed with the hype. As for damage dismounting, no idea, how many times do you dismount? I know for me it is a rare occurrence, if it's dismounted its going in the trash due to wear, age or damage.
 
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OP
RhodyBennett

RhodyBennett

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Jan 1, 2022
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Has anyone gone through the process of changing the lug pattern on your rig? I currently have 5 lugs, 5/8" and the Method Bead Grips do not come in this configuration. I want to avoid swapping out the axles.
 

jamesroney

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Has anyone gone through the process of changing the lug pattern on your rig? I currently have 5 lugs, 5/8" and the Method Bead Grips do not come in this configuration. I want to avoid swapping out the axles.
Please post a pic. 5 lugs, 5/8 is kind of ambiguous.

Is it 5x5.5 with a heavy duty 5/8 wheel stud? Front and rear? If so, you will most likely have to run duplex acorns. But specifics are needed.
 
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RhodyBennett

RhodyBennett

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Jan 1, 2022
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Please post a pic. 5 lugs, 5/8 is kind of ambiguous.

Is it 5x5.5 with a heavy duty 5/8 wheel stud? Front and rear? If so, you will most likely have to run duplex acorns. But specifics are needed.
Thanks James! Sorry, can't send a photo right now but yes, it is 5x5.5 with the heavy duty 5/8 wheel studs, both front and rear. If you can please provide details on having to run duplex acorns I would be greatly appreciative. Definitely trying to educate myself to know what would be the best pathway forward if I decide to go this route. Cheers, Dan
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
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Jan 30, 2005
Messages
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Yes, I did change the FSB's wheel bolt pattern to 8 lug. With the right parts (some of which are getting harder to find all of the time) it's not difficult to convert 6 bolt D44 knuckles to 8 lug. I know of no way to do this with the 5 bolt knuckles. SoCA Bronco's forum in the OJB section has a thread on how I did this. It's also in the FSB link in my sig file.

Short of some kind of bolt-on adapter, which I can't possibly discourage strongly enough, I know of no way to convert a rear axle to 8 lug without changing either the whole axle assembly or the axle shafts.
 

jamesroney

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Yes, I did change the FSB's wheel bolt pattern to 8 lug. With the right parts (some of which are getting harder to find all of the time) it's not difficult to convert 6 bolt D44 knuckles to 8 lug. I know of no way to do this with the 5 bolt knuckles. SoCA Bronco's forum in the OJB section has a thread on how I did this. It's also in the FSB link in my sig file.

Short of some kind of bolt-on adapter, which I can't possibly discourage strongly enough, I know of no way to convert a rear axle to 8 lug without changing either the whole axle assembly or the axle shafts.
8 lug front is native to the 73-87 K20 3/4 ton Chevy. I prefer the GM knuckles because they are flat top, but the spindles will fit the Bronco drum brake knuckles.
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
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Upper SoKA
That is the donor, but finding the caliper bracket for that application is getting much harder. Everything else I've found as replacement parts, but not those brackets.

And if it's a TTB that you're working on you also need the rare-ish 6 bolt TTB knuckles because most of those are 5 bolt.
 
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