What happened? Hub and Rotor Issue

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Installed new hubs and rotors last night and everything appeared to go well, until I went to install a set of new Warn Premium Locking Hubs. The new locking mechanism wouldn't slide in easily, but eventually seemed to seat without force. The external part of the locking mechanism wouldn't slide onto the hub, so I installed the screws and slowly tried to draw the piece onto the hub. I realized quickly that this wasn't going to work, so I took it back off. The internal piece had pulled over the top of the outer lock ring, making it nearly (1 1/2 hour job) to get the ring out. I destroyed the new Warn locking hub in the process. Any idea what I did wrong here? My only thought is maybe the races weren't seated fully and the assembly wasn't far enough onto the spindle. Any thoughts or ideas to look at would be helpful. I've done this procedure a couple of dozen times before, without issue.

 

[PaveBronco]

well that sucks Chief, I guess you already have, but I'd pull it all apart to make sure the rotor is on right. I had an issue with a new hub once, it wasn't exactly round, a bit oval, maybe dropped...so the locking hub was too tight...I managed to get it back into round'ish with my press...
anyway...good luck and pics rule...

 

[gnpenning]

Try it on the old rotor and see if it will slide in. You did try rotating the hub while installing?

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Try it on the old rotor and see if it will slide in. You did try rotating the hub while installing?

I did. It seemed to settle in quite nicely and the spacing behind it was good. Won't have much time to screw with it tonight, but can probably see if the locking hub will fit into the hub and rotor assembly. Warn has said they will replace it, which is beyond belief, considering I damaged it getting it back off. Think I'll just take the hub and rotor back off and make sure the races are seated correctly. I'm going to try the stock lock outs as well and see how easily they slide into the hubs.

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

well that sucks Chief, I guess you already have, but I'd pull it all apart to make sure the rotor is on right. I had an issue with a new hub once, it wasn't exactly round, a bit oval, maybe dropped...so the locking hub was too tight...I managed to get it back into round'ish with my press...
anyway...good luck and pics rule...

Thanks. I wish I had taken pics. We'll try to work on it tomorrow

 

[DirtDonk]

If you still have the old hub, measure the depth of the splines and compare the two.
Some new hubs are not machined as deeply as they used to be. My assumption is that it's to save a little bit of machining cost, and it possibly fits the engineering specs of a stock locking mechanism. But not an aftermarket version.

We've seen hubs where the Warn and MileMarker would not fit, but the Superwinch would (slightly shallower) and some where none of them would fit deep enough.
More often it's a simple burr in the splines, or as was being discussed, an out-of-round condition. Seen that many times, but definitely measure the depth if everything else checks out.

Paul

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

If you still have the old hub, measure the depth of the splines and compare the two.
Some new hubs are not machined as deeply as they used to be. My assumption is that it's to save a little bit of machining cost, and it possibly fits the engineering specs of a stock locking mechanism. But not an aftermarket version.

We've seen hubs where the Warn and MileMarker would not fit, but the Superwinch would (slightly shallower) and some where none of them would fit deep enough.
More often it's a simple burr in the splines, or as was being discussed, an out-of-round condition. Seen that many times, but definitely measure the depth if everything else checks out.

Paul

I cleaned up the stock lockouts and it appears they will work. They're not aesthetically nice to look at, but they're built well. Will have to do for now.

 

[DirtDonk]

If it's just the knobs that are trashed, they're available new again: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/17784/bronco_Dana44 but if it's the chrome bezel that's whacked, you might have to take care of that yourself somehow.
Depends on how bad they are.

Paul

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

If it's just the knobs that are trashed, they're available new again: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/17784/bronco_Dana44 but if it's the chrome bezel that's whacked, you might have to take care of that yourself somehow.
Depends on how bad they are.

Paul

I think I'm okay with the rough appearance. Looks like someone curb checked them a few times though.

 

[Rustytruck]

Some one needs to repop the bezels in stainless steel.

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Venting, so excuse me...how the heck do the stock lock outs work? It's not rocket science and I think I'm installing them the way every damn diagram shows me, but when I get everything together, the dial doesn't turn. What am I doing wrong? I've never used the stock after removing them. Simply used Warn, but that doesn't appear to want to work. Does someone have pictures of how each piece is supposed to be installed, in order? Not the diagram, but actual pictures? Pretty frustrated right now. Nothing seems to want to work this week,

 

[DirtDonk]

Sounds like the knob itself is misaligned with the two tangs of the release ring/bar/thingy to the wrong side of the ramps.
Try removing the knob, rotating it a bit and re-attaching.

They work by the knob pushing inward on the two arms when in the FREE position, then releasing them to allowing the pressure from the inner spring to engage the two dog tooth gears.
This way, with the knob off, the hubs are locked. They only unlock with the knob pushing against the spring.

You can test some of this action by removing the knob and pushing inward on the two ears/arms/thingies against the spring, to see if the inner gear is releasing and your spring is able to push it back out when you stop pushing.

Paul

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Sounds like the knob itself is misaligned with the two tanks of the release ring/bar/thingy to the wrong side of the ramps.
Try removing the knob, rotating it a bit and re-attaching.

They work by the knob pushing inward on the two arms when in the FREE position, then releasing them to allowing the pressure from the inner spring to engage the two dog tooth gears.
This way, with the knob off, the hubs are locked. They only unlock with the knob pushing against the spring.

You can test some of this action by removing the knob and pushing inward on the two ears/arms/thingies against the spring, to see if the inner gear is releasing and your spring is able to push it back out when you stop pushing.

Paul

Thanks Paul. A little more sane this morning! I get it now. I'll give hot a shot this afternoon. Thank you

 

[Master Chief]

Chuck,

It has been so long since I messed with factory hubs but I found this short video that may help, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tk3veeS1qbk.

BTW, the guy who made the video failed the "Tools and Their Uses" military correspondence course ;D

1969 Ford factory manual instructions and diagram for you as well.

Roger

 

[rydog1130]

Chuck,

It has been so long since I messed with factory hubs but I found this short video that may help, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tk3veeS1qbk.

BTW, the guy who made the failed the "Tools and Their Uses" military correspondence course ;D

1969 Ford factory manual instructions and diagram for you as well.

Roger

maybe your wheel bearing isn't seating right in the hub?

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

Thanks everyone. First, the race in the new hubs wasn't seated properly. I failed the "Always check this" test before install. That's likely what caused the new locking hub to not slide all the way into the hub. As for the stock lockers, Paul was dead on. I have never used them before and his advice was spot on. Thanks Paul!

 

[DirtDonk]

Success! May not have fixed the ugly, but now they work!;D

Paul