A very bad thing happened...

[TX-ZACH]

Pulled the valve cover and saw evidence of milky oil. Pulled dip stick and confirmed milked. What ever it was lifted the head so looks like a rebuild or new crate motor coming.

 

[helo-mech]

Pulled the valve cover and saw evidence of milky oil. Pulled dip stick and confirmed milked. What ever it was lifted the head so looks like a rebuild or new crate motor coming.

Ah man I hate to hear that. I'm down in League City and can offer some free labor if you want a hand pulling it.

 

[TX-ZACH]

Helo

Thanks much for the offer. This place has a good group. I sent you a PM but Im going to let the pro's handle this. I have some good rod shops on this side of town.

 

[JeepGuy]

Helo

Thanks much for the offer. This place has a good group. I sent you a PM but Im going to let the pro's handle this. I have some good rod shops on this side of town.

OH damn... was hoping is was something super simple.

You thinking mild rebuild, or going for more power?

The engine will be the last in the line of rebuilds on my Bronco. It ran fine when I parked it years ago and it's been stored inside, so hopefully with a little TLC upon first refire it will hold together for a bit.

 

[TX-ZACH]

Plan on weighing my options and what I can justify on budget. Stay tuned.

 

[gnpenning]

Not the news I was hoping for.

On the bright side you will have a new motor when you are done.

 

[beatlescott]

Several years ago I installed new edelbrock heads on a 427 I had in a '66 vette. I went to put the air cleaner on and the all thread was gone. Like a dumb ass I didn't even think that it might have fallen in the carb. I started the motor and after a minute or 2 there was a loud banging noise. The all thread has worked it's self all the way down to the top of the piston. Long story short it not only f'd up my piston, it actually cracked the cylinder!

My mantra has become, if it's not worth doing a job multiple times, I probably shouldn't do it myself.

 

[nvrstuk]

If you're missing the threaded rod for your air filter then what Broncobowsher said. Pull the valve covers. Now way that 3" long rod made it past the valve but it could have jammed in the seat and popped the keepers off and maybe dropped a valve.

SORRY, what a disaster...

Wish ya the best

 

[Rustytruck]

While doing your research look up ATK engines. I have used them before and wouldn't hesitate to use them again on a ho hum rebuilt.

 

[TX-ZACH]

Thats a good find Rusty. Thanks buddy. Once my shop tears it down and reports what happened and damage report, Ill figure next steps.

 

[TX-ZACH]

WOW! 6-8 month lead time.

 

[sprdv1]

Never fails right...

I am absolutely devastated. What a tragic series of events. Yesterday I picked up the Bronco from my seller and trailer'ed it home without incident. Once I unstrapped with ramps in position I tried to start it up to back her off and everything hit the fan.

1st it was difficult to start almost like the carb lost prime and dry. It turned over a few times trying to fire as if its not enough fuel and then flooded after several attempts. I let it sit for a while and came back to try again.

2nd attempt the engine fired off and ran extremely rough and a horrible sounds as if timing has been retarded and not all pistons firing. More sounds of like its going to throw a rod or metal in something moving. Ran enough to back it off the trailer.

I popped the hood and started to trouble shoot checking fluids, distributor cap, plugs etc and I notice the wingnut laying loose on top of the air-filter cap. Noticed the 1/4 all-thread stud is missing and now I suspect that stud backed itself loose during the trip and fell into the combustion chamber. I suspect it bounced around on valves working down on one of the pistons and either grenaded or damaged piston and bent the rod, scored cylinder.

Bronco ran great prior to the trip and loading. I am beside myself.....

So now I got to figure out to get it in my shop to start pulling of the top end down to inspect for damage, pull the pan etc.

 

[helo-mech]

WOW! 6-8 month lead time.

On what an ATK block or your engine re-build?

 

[nvrstuk]

ALL engine rebuilders/suppliers I have had contact with have had 4-6 month lead time since last winter...

Definitely not the news you were hoping for...

 

[TX-ZACH]

On what an ATK block or your engine re-build?

351w. I called a few places in the Houston area as well and this includes 302, 393. Ill continue the search for options. Maybe will have to end up re-building the 302 I have.

 

[Remos69]

351w. I called a few places in the Houston area as well and this includes 302, 393. Ill continue the search for options. Maybe will have to end up re-building the 302 I have.

I have an ATK hp-09m 351w in my Bronco. The first engine failed with a whopping 15 miles on the Homestead racetrack in during the parade laps. Bent a valve, called ATK, they had me check compression and #2 cylinder was the culprit. They sent me a new engine and paid the original mechanic to remove the old and install the new. That was 2 years ago and I have 2500 miles on the new engine without a problem.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Don't know what it is, but when I have valve train problem on a small block ford it is always cylinder #2. Been that way for 30+ years.

 

[Madgyver]

Rebuild it yourself. If cam is still good you won't have a problem looking for a cam and lifter set. Those are getting hard to find available.

 

[HoldMyPocket]

I used sandjengines.com for my 78 F150, got a 400 with an RV cam. Was impressed with how quickly it came and the quality so far after a year.

 

[Broncobowsher]

My father was telling me about his old boss. Has a '63 split window. Parked in his garage for over a decade. All because one of those red plastic spray can straws came off the can and went down the carb, intake, etc... Never even cranked the engine over.