What secures the clutch fork to the throw out bearing?

[rjrobin2002]

What keeps the clutch fork pulled inwards and secured to the throw out bearing?

 

[SteveL]

Doesn't the t/o bearing have a clip that holds it on? Also the input shaft from the tranny keeps it centered. There should also be a clip just inside the bell housing the clutch fork pivots on

 

[rjrobin2002]

I know the throw out bearing is centered on the trans shaft, and the throw out bearing has 2 tension clips that the clutch lever fork slides in, but what keeps it from pulling out? Is it suppose to be secured with a pin anywhere like at the pivot?

 

[Apogee]

It can't really go anywhere...the fork controls the axial position of the T.O. bearing and the input shaft housing keeps it centered on the pressure plate. The clips slide a little on the fork throughout it's range of motion, but it doesn't really move that far in use.

Maybe I'm not understanding the question, because you clearly have a good handle on how the T.O. bearing is located...are you asking how the fork is anchored on the bellhousing?

 

[rjrobin2002]

Yes, thats what i am asking, is the fork suppose to be anchored to the bellhousing?

Or what keeps it held on its pivot point?

My friends Bronco clutch arm is loose and not holding on the pivot point, sometimes you have to shove the arm further in towards the throw out bearing so it will engage.

 

[rjrobin2002]

What does the clutch fork spring do in this screenshot and where does it go?

 

[Quick & Dirty]

There are 2 styles that I have handy, neither of which use the spring you posted above;

This is a '79 351M/400 bell. There is a pivot ball on the fork that fits in the divot, and a clip hooks under the bevel to hold it in place.

This style is earlier, '71 Falcon 429. There is a clip on the back of the fork that hooks into a loop pivot.

 

[rjrobin2002]

So your first picture is what's on a 1975 Bronco stock?

 

[rjrobin2002]

My friend has the style like pic 3 and 4 and he forgot to hook that clip on the pivot.

Will the trans have to be pulled to remove the clutch fork, install it correctly?

Or can you get a clutch fork to slide onto a throw out and that clip with the engine bolted to the trans?

 

[Quick & Dirty]

So your first picture is what's on a 1975 Bronco stock?

I edited my first post when I found the fork. It doesn't match that spring you posted either. I don't have any small block bells to look at.

I think you can re-hook the fork without removing the trans. You just won't be able to see much and have to get the throwout bearing and fork pivot lined up at the same time by feel. It's been a long time since I messed with a clutch.

 

[rjrobin2002]

My friend has the style like pic 3 and 4 and he forgot to hook that clip on the pivot.

Will the trans have to be pulled to remove the clutch fork, install it correctly?

Or can you get a clutch fork to slide onto a throw out and that clip with the engine bolted to the trans?

 

[rjrobin2002]

He had apparently been driving it with the spring back riding on that bell housing pivot point, then this morning the spring broke and the fork slide out. I shoved the clutch fork back in and now that bellhousing pivot is riding deep into the clutch fork pivot channel like it was suppose to.

Will it be fine without the clip? This is where the clip broke.

 

[Apogee]

Mine broke similarly, and while you can force it into the bellhousing tab overly deep like you described, mine then broke the clip at the rivets a few months later on my '77 F150.

 

[rjrobin2002]

Should it be fixed or will it be fine and stay seated.

 

[DirtDonk]

I think you already found out that it will not stay seated forever. After all, you started this thread because it practically fell out in the first place.

But I would think that even if it hadn't, eventually it would fall out. Or at least fall out of adjustment and not work 100% properly 100% of the time.
Another common failure point is the actual pivot bracket. The rivets fail and it falls off, or the bracket splits at the bend. This may already be starting as that could have cause the fork to be dislodged to start with.
Or likely too, someone servicing the clutch might not have put the fork back in properly at some point, and it just finally let go.
If that's the case, then there's no telling how long it might work for this time. But I still say it's done with it's happy life and needs to be fixed.

Not fun of course, but I'm thinking it's necessary.

Paul

 

[rjrobin2002]

I started the thread cause of how his clutch fork did not stay on its pivot and I didn't know why, this thread let me figure out that he had been driving it for the past week without it being allowed to seat into that deep grove on the pivot arm cause it was riding on that spring back. The first time it slipped out I was able to slide it back in but noticed how much it wanted to slide in and out.
Then on his way home i guess that spring broke allowing it to seat right and now it feels secure as normal with that spring gone.

Now trying to figure out if that spring is needed, or mostly just to help hold it in place during install

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, can't answer that because I have the other type and have never run, or known anyone to run this type without the spring. Likely you won't find anyone that knows for sure how long their spring was broken or missing before they had trouble. And most of those would have replaced it.
But hey, you never know. Maybe someone has been through the same thing and is going strong without it.

Good luck.

Paul