• Just a reminder that you won't be able to start new posts or reply to existings posts in the Archive forum.

    This is where all the old posts go so they can still be used for reference and searched.
  • Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Wheel studs

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
How long should they be?

I noticed these look kinda short, about 7/8" to be exact.
 

Attachments

  • DSC08913.jpg
    DSC08913.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 89

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,345
Loc.
Tangent, OR
Mad, you should have at least 8 full turns of thread engagement between the lug nuts and the wheel stud, at which point the threads should be stronger than the tensile strength of the stud. Anything more than that is just gravy.

Since I assume the studs are 1/2-20, that means you have .05" axial travel per revolution, so you really only need .40" minimum thread engagement. The thickness of your wheel center and depth of the countersinks for the lug nuts will then determine your actual thread engagement. You can get extended snout lug nuts for additional thread engagement if needed assuming your wheels use 60 degree conical seat lug nuts, not something else.

Tobin
 

Justafordguy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 26, 2009
Messages
6,255
I think as long as the stud is at least flush with the outside of the nut when installed you should be good to go.
 
OP
OP
Madgyver

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
I think as long as the stud is at least flush with the outside of the nut when installed you should be good to go.
That's what had me notice it. I could see threads still exposed in the nut after torqueing it down.
 
OP
OP
Madgyver

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
I hope these work.
Dorman part# 610-287
 

Attachments

  • DSC08917.jpg
    DSC08917.jpg
    49.1 KB · Views: 52
OP
OP
Madgyver

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
15,030
With a little sanding off the shoulder of the stud, I got this pressed in. Now to do the rest.
 

Attachments

  • DSC08921.jpg
    DSC08921.jpg
    87.5 KB · Views: 66

casadejohnson

Bronco Alchemist
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
3,587
Are you using the same studs for the front and rear? I looked for longer studs for my slots but the fronts and rears were not the same (Chevy disc in front drums in rear). Some of the studs I found in the Dorman book were about the length I wanted but were not threaded all the way to the end so I was not really gaining anything. I'll have to check out the ones like you got.
 

mofoco1

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 25, 2001
Messages
1,474
Loc.
Clovis, CA
Not trying to hijack, but it seems the knurlings are all over the place from what I see on the ARP and Moroso studs. Does anyone have a actual knurling size for the stock Ford 9" axles BB if it makes a difference? I actually stripped one on the front hubs trying to install with the washer and nut method. Mo in Clovis
 

ntsqd

heratic car camper
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
5,954
Loc.
Upper SoKA
Pulling wheel studs in is a bad plan. They need to be pushed in. Be that with a hammer or a press. Pulling them yields or nearly yields them at the root of the threads right next to the start of the splines and severely shortens their life-span.
 
Top