Wheelbase for 40” tires

[JSmall]

Doing some thinking here (it hurts ;D). Curious what wheelbase would be ideal for 40s. Is 100” acceptable? I know it is not necessary to stretch for larger tires, but I think larger tires look better with a longer wheelbase and I’m sure they will handle better.

Any build thread links that show different wheelbases would be great to look at. I know the drivetrain and suspension will need to be sorted as well (1 tons and links), but for now I’m just looking for ideas on wheelbase.

 

[Apogee]

It really depends on where you wheel...OR and WA woods like the Tilamook Burn (Brown's Camp) has a lot of variety, but tends to be pretty tight. Some stuff will definitely favor shorter wheelbases, others longer. If it were mine, I'd probably shoot for 98 to 104 inches if I were sticking with a full body EB, longer if pinching and/or dovetailing the body. The 1978-1979 Broncos are 104 inches IIRC, but the body is significantly wider.

 

[JSmall]

It really depends on where you wheel...OR and WA woods like the Tilamook Burn (Brown's Camp) has a lot of variety, but tends to be pretty tight. Some stuff will definitely favor shorter wheelbases, others longer. If it were mine, I'd probably shoot for 98 to 104 inches if I were sticking with a full body EB, longer if pinching and/or dovetailing the body. The 1978-1979 Broncos are 104 inches IIRC, but the body is significantly wider.

I'm thinking full body and I would like it to look good with the stretch. I was thinking 100" would be a decent wheelbase so I'm in your range.

Can 100" WB with stock rear tank location be accomplished?

 

[Apogee]

I'm thinking full body and I would like it to look good with the stretch. I was thinking 100" would be a decent wheelbase so I'm in your range.

Can 100" WB with stock rear tank location be accomplished?

I haven't measured mine yet, however I've read on here that you can get about 4 inches rear stretch without relocating the tank or making something custom to avoid interference with the rear axle housing. In theory, you can get 100 inches and not move the rear at all, but that means 8 inches up front, tires into the grill maybe, new steering box and track bar locations, etc., not that those things won't start being issues possibly sooner.

 

[SC74]

I stretched my rear 10" so I'm 102" overall. I wish I was longer, maybe 105-108. Like said above though it depends on the wheeling you do. Here in the east coast we tend to go longer than other regions.

 

[Yeller]

with 40's 2-1/2 to 3" forward with the front is about all you can get and not get into the grill. Mine on 37's is 4" and ocationaly I'll make a tire mark on the back of the grill, but its at stock height too though. 100" will work just fine if its low enough, with 40's it wil behave like a stock wheel base on 33's, except for turning, it won't be as nimble.

 

[JSmall]

Thanks for all the great suggestions. My current plan is for a snow and sand machine so this will be overbuilt for that. I haven’t decided if I want to get back into the rocks yet. On my Heep, the rocks equaled a lot of $$. Time will tell. Looking for something that has the ability to conquer the nastiest terrain, but probably won’t be used to its full potential.

Something low and wide with large tires that looks good at the same time. I’ve found a few builds that interest me. The Bronco WCB built with 40’s and pre-runner fenders is the look I’m after, minus the pre-runner stuff.

 

[JSmall]

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

My bronco has been through about 3 stages of build since I got it. Right now I hope it is in the final stage. Check out my 3 link and dana 60 swap thread.

I wanted a longer wheel base and better approach angle on the front so I moved the axle about 2.5 inches forward based off the numbers and advice that Steve "yeller" and Gordon Bailie gave me.

My front has the lower link mounts 6 inches further back than the stock RA mounts with a 36" lower and 30" upper.

If I went any further forward I would need to do major mods to the steering box location or go full hydro.

I have not moved the rear yet but I will when I link it.

 

[Kyle.malone]

on 40's I'm stock front and went 5" back. Could go a little more but 5" is all the leaf spring hangars would allow. Listen to Yeller and he wont steer ya wrong.

 

[JSmall]

My bronco has been through about 3 stages of build since I got it. Right now I hope it is in the final stage. Check out my 3 link and dana 60 swap thread.

I wanted a longer wheel base and better approach angle on the front so I moved the axle about 2.5 inches forward based off the numbers and advice that Steve "yeller" and Gordon Bailie gave me.

My front has the lower link mounts 6 inches further back than the stock RA mounts with a 36" lower and 30" upper.

If I went any further forward I would need to do major mods to the steering box location or go full hydro.

I have not moved the rear yet but I will when I link it.

Just read through all 12 pages Were you able to keep the 4x4x2 box in the standard location after you pushed everything forward 2.5 inches?

I've read the 78-79 D60 is ideal, but more expensive and harder to find. If I don't mind running a BJ D60, what would be a good year that gives more clearance on the drivers side? Thanks

 

[Kyle.malone]

Just read through all 12 pages Were you able to keep the 4x4x2 box in the standard location after you pushed everything forward 2.5 inches?

I've read the 78-79 D60 is ideal, but more expensive and harder to find. If I don't mind running a BJ D60, what would be a good year that gives more clearance on the drivers side? Thanks

Once you go BJ they are all about the same. I have a 97 D60 and cut the spring perch off and we were able to get C Wedges on it. Using a 2 1/2" driveshaft and had ot notch it just a bit. If I went with a 2" shaft it would clear just fine, but I wanted the extra strength.

 

[JSmall]

on 40's I'm stock front and went 5" back. Could go a little more but 5" is all the leaf spring hangars would allow. Listen to Yeller and he wont steer ya wrong.

I plan to run CO's or ORI struts so my limiting factor in the back will be my tank (I think?) I want to keep it in the stock location. I'll search for your build thread...sounds very close to what I'm thinking.

 

[welndmn]

100" for 40's.
I'm a monster at 107 or 108.

 

[KyleQ]

I'm @ 100" and looking to go up to 40's as well...

 

[JSmall]

100" for 40's.
I'm a monster at 107 or 108.

I'm @ 100" and looking to go up to 40's as well...

Looks like I can get close to 100” while keeping the steering setup close to stock and keeping the rear tank in the stock location. 2.5” front and 5” rear will get me to 99.5”…if I can actually go that far each way

 

[KyleQ]

I did mine all front, but I have full hydro

 

[rockcrawler74]

I guess I'm doing it all wrong, I'm still at the stock wheelbase and running 38's.

 

[br0nc0xrapt0r]

Just read through all 12 pages Were you able to keep the 4x4x2 box in the standard location after you pushed everything forward 2.5 inches?

I've read the 78-79 D60 is ideal, but more expensive and harder to find. If I don't mind running a BJ D60, what would be a good year that gives more clearance on the drivers side? Thanks

I need a shorter pitman arm but it seems that way.

 

[mavereq]

I'm 93" and about to bump up to 39.5. I dig the short wheelbase in the northwest