Wild Horses Sherman Tank fuel tank installed

[DirtDonk]

Im also worried about the to short neck on the tank, seems about 1-1.5 inches shorter than other versions, I hope the piece I have fits as well.

It does seem short, but has never been an issue with the hose sealing to it as far as I know. Has anyone reported it being an issue and I was just not paying attention?
As for the too-short filler hose that was mentioned however, definitely measure it up and compare to what the others with that issue have. Or if they are not able to post their info soon, give us a call and see what it's supposed to be and compare to what you received.
If yours is the same as theirs, then we should be able to supply you with a longer one to avoid the problem ahead of time, rather than finding out during installation.

Regarding the filler extension's diminutive size, it's that way by necessity. This is a side-effect of having to push the tank up and down pretty much perfectly vertically, as opposed to being able to tilt it to clear the longer filler tubes. The adjustable mounting system pretty much negates getting much tilt action.

But other than it looking funny, here again I don't know anyone that has had any problems clamping the hose around it. Nor of any leaking from this area after the fact.

Paul

 

[Casey835]

Im also worried about the to short neck on the tank, seems about 1-1.5 inches shorter than other versions, I hopt the piece I have fits as well.

Along with my saga of the internals being all messed up, my sender is DOA. Well, it actually does run 10-70 ohms if I hold the wires just perfect. There is some short in how it is wired through the tank access panel. So just normal ops it goes from reading empty to full and back again in the top 2 inches of tank volume, not good.

Wow, did not expect these issues at this stage of game. Good thing the tank is already on the ground not yet installed. BTW this is the third oversized tank I have installed and all the others were fine, clean inside, senders worked as expected.

Not sure if this could be your problem, but the sending unit in my tank was wrong one, it would not read right with stock gauge. There was some small discussion about it quite a while back, there was a " batch " with something wrong. Wish I could give more details but that's all I remember other than Viperwolf being the one to figure it out.


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[DirtDonk]

Along with my saga of the internals being all messed up, my sender is DOA. Well, it actually does run 10-70 ohms if I hold the wires just perfect. There is some short in how it is wired through the tank access panel. So just normal ops it goes from reading empty to full and back again in the top 2 inches of tank volume, not good.

Definitely not good az. Sorry you're experiencing a bad sender especially if it goes along with any other issues you might discover!
But just like the solution with the hose, please call us (if you haven't already) and get a replacement on the way. No, you should not have to do this, and yes, they are all tested as they're being installed. But probably not tested to the extent of finding a loose contact in the rheostat unfortunately.
Or it's possible that it was damaged in shipping. I don't know if shipping bumps and grinds would have had anything to do with it, but it's another possibility.
And possible too, for them to come out of adjustment in spite of our best efforts to calibrate them during assembly.

So in spite of wanting to help the customers avoid the extra time and hassle of installing theirs before use, I've been in favor of packaging the sending units separately so the floats are not hanging out there in space during shipping.
It's been a pretty reliable way overall so far, but I think it leaves too much unknown when it comes to gauges reading correctly. I'm only guessing it could be involved in your particular unit's failure, but let's get it replaced no matter what.
I've only replaced maybe two or three whole sending units over the last five years myself. But like some others have said, I also think that instead of just verifying the "factory correct" range, I believe that each unit should be matched to the existing wiring and gauges of the individual Broncos anyway. So end-user installation would be a minimal extra effort to avoid a gauge that's not giving good info.

But none of that is germane at the moment. The bottom line is that if you've found a fault with your new sending unit, we'll send you a replacement and get that other one back.
Thanks to all who have purchased a Sherman tank from us in the first place! We definitely want it to be a better experience in the end. To that end I think I can say that we definitely look forward to your calls and resolving the issues. That's just general policy.

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

Paul, hi and thanks for being here, it really shows you have a desire to deliver as I've known you guys do for decades. I just had a bad few days of pretty much anything I touch broke or didnt fit

I took the tank to Driven and they are having it etched so that issue is solved. The sender unit was fixed when I realized the ground wire was not actually grounding, it had some insulated fitting keeping it from touching the sender mounting plate, I was chuckling why they used that. But now I can prove it works 10-70 ohms linear all the way top to bottom, I'm happy again. When I get tank back I will obviously check with dash gage to make sure it has a reasonable response to movement. I think my case is closed, thanks for your involvement!!!

 

[DirtDonk]

Whew! I love making promises for others to keep, but I like it even more when an issue gets resolved without new parts!

But we'll keep the light on for you, if yours or any of the others still have their troubles.
Definitely don't hesitate to fiddle with the arm/float adjustment if you think it's warranted for your gauge. I had to tweak the heck out of a factory replacement sending unit too.
Hell, I had to tweak both of my original sending units after I bought my '71! It was only 5 years old with 60k miles on it and the gauges would never reach past 3/4 of a tank. But they would go down more than a 1/4 below empty before running out.

When it doubt then... Tweak away!

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

Yeah, I've put in about 5 senders and tanks over the last decade and I learned first one to hook the wires up between tank sender and gage to verify operation.

 

[crutch]

The pickup "sock" is the filter and should already be in place.
Assuming you purchased the tank specifically for EFI with the in-tank pump already installed, the filter is already assembled and in the tank.

Paul

Thanks Paul. Yes, it's the EFI tank. I thought I saw others with an in tank pump that were running a filter along frame rail right out of tank. Given the in tank pump do you recommend just a 10 micron filter right before the input of the EFI?


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[DirtDonk]

I would use the external filter.
Lots of external filters on the frame. I would guess that the sock is just a coarser pre-pump filter, but a finer one on the frame that gets changed every 50k miles or so would be a good idea to keep things out of the injectors.
So I would say that, while perhaps not 100% needed, it would be a very good idea. Even the factories use a frame mounted higher capacity filter along with the sock filter in the tank. At least Ford does I think? GM typically has a different module design for their in-tank pumps, but I think they still have a sock of some kind on the business end of the pump. And they definitely use an inline filter on the frame.
The whole coarser-and-finer thing is just a guess. But it makes sense.

In fact, the "sock" is likely just as much (if not more?) for surface tension than filtration. Not sure if "surface tension" is the proper terminology here, but the effect of the sock is to act as a way to keep liquid gas being sucked up into the pump when the pump's pickup port would be clear of fuel. Such as when almost empty and/or at a steep angle and the fuel is sloshing away from the pickup.
Just a hole at the end of a tube would suck air, whereas the sock keeps sucking even when partially exposed.

At least that's a theory I just came up with! No idea if the sock actually has those properties, but it seems like they would.

Paul

 

[crutch]

I would use the external filter.
Lots of external filters on the frame. I would guess that the sock is just a coarser pre-pump filter, but a finer one on the frame that gets changed every 50k miles or so would be a good idea to keep things out of the injectors.
So I would say that, while perhaps not 100% needed, it would be a very good idea. Even the factories use a frame mounted higher capacity filter along with the sock filter in the tank. At least Ford does I think? GM typically has a different module design for their in-tank pumps, but I think they still have a sock of some kind on the business end of the pump. And they definitely use an inline filter on the frame.
The whole coarser-and-finer thing is just a guess. But it makes sense.

In fact, the "sock" is likely just as much (if not more?) for surface tension than filtration. Not sure if "surface tension" is the proper terminology here, but the effect of the sock is to act as a way to keep liquid gas being sucked up into the pump when the pump's pickup port would be clear of fuel. Such as when almost empty and/or at a steep angle and the fuel is sloshing away from the pickup.
Just a hole at the end of a tube would suck air, whereas the sock keeps sucking even when partially exposed.

At least that's a theory I just came up with! No idea if the sock actually has those properties, but it seems like they would.

Paul

Seems logical to me. I just need to make sure I get a high pressure filter I assume. I found another thread with some recommendations so I'll go this route. Thanks


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[Georgelas]

Fuel line inside tank

Guys,

i have the Sherman Fuel Tank with the EFI pump, and have had to replace the fuel hose on the inside of the tank that runs from the pump to the fuel pickup. The fuel hose inside the tank ruptured and the fuel stopped coming to the efi system.

Wild horses was good about replacing the pump and the hose. However i am now in Leadville Colorado on an RV trip and the bronco has the same symptoms. Pump runs but nothing comes out of the fuel line. Has anyone had this problem. I am taking it to a shop to have the tank dropped and inspected for the same issue.

Any thoughts on this?

Aaron

 

[brewchief]

Guys,

i have the Sherman Fuel Tank with the EFI pump, and have had to replace the fuel hose on the inside of the tank that runs from the pump to the fuel pickup. The fuel hose inside the tank ruptured and the fuel stopped coming to the efi system.

Wild horses was good about replacing the pump and the hose. However i am now in Leadville Colorado on an RV trip and the bronco has the same symptoms. Pump runs but nothing comes out of the fuel line. Has anyone had this problem. I am taking it to a shop to have the tank dropped and inspected for the same issue.

Any thoughts on this?

Aaron

Fuel line used inside a tank needs to be rated for that use, most line is not, you can find line that is just expect to pay for it. Oreilys sells it in one foot packages here for around 30$.

 

[DirtDonk]

While the chief is correct, it's expected that we use the proper fuel line for this in any part of the country with any type of fuel. If not, somebody's got the wrong stuff spec'ed or the supplier isn't using the right stuff.

I have not heard of the hoses splitting before Aaron. I've seen them quit functioning due to the steel part of the line there inside being the wrong size. I've seen that same piece having been welded at a slight offset where the weld was actually blocking the opening and reducing the flow. Neither of which caused any rupturing of the hose.

How long have you had the tank? How long does each hose seem to last? Is it more of a mileage thing do you think? Or just the amount of time they spend in the fuel?

If you did the install the second time around, did you notice anything strange about the way it slipped over the steel tube? Or anything that made you think, "hey, that's not normal" or anything like that?

Sorry about the hassle. Especially in the middle of a road trip. Give us a call as soon as you're able to and discuss it. Maybe talk to Cory first, as he's the one that most often is involved in the assembly and checking of these things.

Good luck. Hope the rest of your trip is a little smoother.

Paul