Wire: Green with Red Stripe, help!

[Salashhavoc]

I just upgraded to a 3g alternator from Wild Horses. The harness on the alternator came with only two wires, which are routed back into the alternator. I removed the the wires from the old stock fender mounted voltage regulator, pitching the orange and yellow wire to the former alternator, and the voltage regulator itself, and I have one wire left... that was previously into the voltage regulator. From what I understand, this goes to the ignition switch and is green with red stripe.

Where do I connect this wire to since i cant link it into the back of the new 3g alternator? Any power source?

Any help appreciated... Thank you.

 

[Airmapper]

There should be an existing Green with red stripe wire that went to your old, externally mounted voltage regulator. You can use it. Just check it for 12v with the key on and off first.

 

[75junebug]

Go to BC Broncos website, tech pages. They have a diagram for 3G alt wiring. It should help.

 

[Salashhavoc]

Thanks for the prompt responses. I seen Airmappers original 3 page thread and already used Bc Broncos tech page.

The tech page shows three wires coming off of the regulator on the alternator supplied by BcBroncos. The alternator i purchased from Wild Horses only has two wires coming off, no green with red stripe wire.


The old regulator bolted to the inside hood (stock regulator) had a green with red stripe wire going into it coming from the ignition switch Since I can not wire this into the alternator (no slot ), is there another place it can go? Ie straight to the battery??

 

[xcntrk]

I ran into the same issue (duped?) by the WH 3G alternator. Definitely not a bolt on conversion alternator with an ASI plug that only has 2 wires !@$%$@.

The whole reason I sourced the alternator from them was for an EB specific conversion. Had I known I was going to get one from Autozone thrown in a WH box....well....

So I ended up buying the proper 3-wire ASI connector:

 

[Salashhavoc]

Why does the bcbronco tech page only show a two wire system?

http://www.bcbroncos.com/3g1wire with water mark.pdf

 

[Airmapper]

Try this one:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/3G 3 wire with water mark.pdf

I was confused before, but I think I'm understanding now that your plug in to the alternator does not have a piece of wire sticking out of it that correspond with the "I" position on the diagram?

 

[Salashhavoc]

Try this one:
http://www.bcbroncos.com/3G 3 wire with water mark.pdf

I was confused before, but I think I'm understanding now that your plug in to the alternator does not have a piece of wire sticking out of it that correspond with the "I" position on the diagram?

Correct!

 

[DirtDonk]

Hold on a minute fellers!

If this is our #6013 "1-Wire" alternator, then it does not have, nor does it need, the Red w/green "turn-on" wire. Nor will using one help.

This is, as it says, a true 1-wire alternator. We do not call a standard 3G a "1-wire" like some people used to call any internally regulated alternator. This is in fact a 1-wire hookup to the chassis.

It's got a custom self-exciting internal voltage regulator that does not use the switched source from the key.
It is a stock type 3G however, so if you were ever of a mind to convert it back to a 2-wire alt, you simply buy a standard voltage regulator and install it instead.

Our plug comes with the Green w/red wire cut off for the reasons stated above. You can actually see the color on the little stub of a wire left in the plug if you look close enough. At least on some of them.
So no reason to redesign the wheel here. It's already been done for you.

Just hook up the Yellow wire to the outlet (as it may already have been right out of the box) and use a heavy gauge wire from the charge stud to the battery.
If you bought our charge wire kit #6025 as well, you're good to go.

Paul

 

[xcntrk]

Where on your website or the installation instructions is any this input made available?

 

[Salashhavoc]

Our plug comes with the Green w/red wire cut off for the reasons stated above. You can actually see the color on the little stub of a wire left in the plug if you look close enough. At least on some of them.
So no reason to redesign the wheel here. It's already been done for you.

Just hook up the Yellow wire to the outlet (as it may already have been right out of the box) and use a heavy gauge wire from the charge stud to the battery.
If you bought our charge wire kit #6025 as well, you're good to go.

Paul

This is correct, I did purchase the #6013 and #6025, installed both, and quadruple checked all of the connections. As I removed the old voltage regulator on the fender, where would I wire the green with red stripe wire from the factory harness now? To be clear, this is the one that previously went into the stock voltage regulator, and i am assuming provides power to the ignition circuit?

Let me know if pictures of my set-up would assist further. Thanks!

 

[Salashhavoc]

Pictures:
1st one showing wire that i am not sure where it goes....


2nd


What am I missing??

 

[Airmapper]

As I removed the old voltage regulator on the fender, where would I wire the green with red stripe wire from the factory harness now? To be clear, this is the one that previously went into the stock voltage regulator, and i am assuming provides power to the ignition circuit?

Paul will have to correct me if I'm wrong, but what I gather from his post and looking at the documentation for the Alternator you got from WH, I believe you can just cap that loose wire you have off, as it's not necessary anymore.

It's function has been taken over in the alternators attached voltage regulator, and it does not need a signal from that wire. That is one of the benefits of the 3G swap, is that it does clean up the wiring in that area significantly.

That wire will make a handy source for any key on hot function you may desire in the future for any accessories. I'd cover up the end good, and tuck it away for later use.

 

[Salashhavoc]

just cap that loose wire you have off, as it's not necessary anymore.

I did this at first, but my truck will not start now. No noise, nothing. Checked all the fuses, they are GTG. Checked the battery voltage, GTG...

I did something wrong...

Just for kicks, i wired that loose wire to power and tried to turn the it over and solenoid clicked. That is the most noise from the ignition i have achieved yet... ( I hope this didn't fry something else...)

 

[Salashhavoc]

Alright, i found one error...

I had no power because i screwed up my wiring to isolator... Doh...

Now - When i turn the key to ACC or ON, I have power (Blinkers work, stereo., etc...) However it still won't crank. No noise, nothing when I turn to start...


Picture of corrected isolator wiring...

 

[Airmapper]

This may help, not sure your bronco's year so if it's not 68-71 let us know, I don't think the starting system wiring fundamentally changes that much though.

http://seabiscuit68.tripod.com/images/68-71ignition-color.gif

I'd start investigating the starting system, check the wires to the solenoid first. Make sure they are getting power. I kind of think there may be an issue with the brown "I" wire because it's circuit kind of runs parallel to the Green w/ red stripe wire.

 

[Salashhavoc]

I replaced the solenoid, and still no change...

 

[DirtDonk]

Where on your website or the installation instructions is any this input made available?

I suppose that in so many words, it's not.
Our instructions "assumed" that the end-user is actually looking for a true self-exciting "1-wire" alternator to save some of the hassle of hooking up extra wires, was willing to pay more for that benefit, and would therefore take those instructions at face value and just do as they say. Namely, hook up the one new 6ga or larger charge wire to the truck, and call it a day.
The alternators should ship with the plug already installed and the 2 existing wires hooked up. If that's not the case, let me know and I'll see what has changed at our end.

Sorry about the misunderstanding.
I'm working on some additions now, to the website and the instruction PDF, that will hopefully make those details even more clear.

I ran into the same issue (duped?) by the WH 3G alternator. Definitely not a bolt on conversion alternator with an ASI plug that only has 2 wires !@$%$@.

The whole reason I sourced the alternator from them was for an EB specific conversion. Had I known I was going to get one from Autozone thrown in a WH box....well....

So I ended up buying the proper 3-wire ASI connector:

Wow xcntrk. Duped? Sorry you think so. And sorry too that you were put through so much unnecessary trouble.
Did you ever call us to ask about it? Did someone then give you the wrong information when you did? Or did you just assume we were trying to dupe you into paying more for your supposedly re-boxed alternator?

First of all, we DON't buy them from Autozone. We get them from a small manufacturer and then install their specially made "self-exciting" regulators to eliminate the need for an "on with the key" wire such as the Red w/green wire in question.
If you somehow did get an Autozone sourced alternator in your kit, well, I suppose we might have needed a quick replacement at some point. Not the usual practice, but I suppose it's possible.
Or were you just using Autozone as a quick example?

Did you also think your connector was defective because of the missing wire? If so, a quick call and we would have happily sent you another one. Or better yet, hopefully corrected your misconception about it in the first place and saved you from waiting for another "defective" connector.

If you did call and still have this misinformation, well that's our fault and I'm sorry we were not able to clear it up right away. But that's what I'm trying to do here now.

As Airmapper said, you do NOT need to use the old Green w/red wire, like you would with a standard 3G alternator. That's the whole point of our calling it a 1-wire setup.
The new regulator makes the alternator pretty much self-contained, other than the main BAT cable that you have to hook up. It uses only the 2 small wires connected to itself for full function. The Yellow "sensing" wire that should be connected directly to the output stud, and the White w/black wire connected directly to the small plug in the side of the alternator case.
With these two connections, the alternator will start charging once it starts spinning.
As said, the only wire you need to hook externally is the BAT charge cable connected to the battery/chassis.

Any attempt to change the plug and connect to an externally keyed source is an unnecessary step, and expense. And possibly dangerous.
I don't really know if it will actually damage the regulator though. And since yours sounds like it's working xcntrk(?), then it may not be an issue.
Since the terminal inside is probably not connected to anything anyway, that could be the case.
But I would disconnect your "I" wire anyway. If for no other reason than to just see if it still works.
It might be one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" scenarios, but it's really not necessary.

The funny thing here is that for years we tried to clear up the misconception among EB owners that any internally regulated alternator was called a "1-wire" and that when hooking up a Ford internally regulated alternator, you really did still need to connect the different chassis wires to the alt for proper functioning.
Now we're trying to clear up why, when you do actually have a self-exciting 1-wire alternator, you don't have to hook up those wires!

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I replaced the solenoid, and still no change...

That's a nice system you've got there. Pretty heavy-duty looking isolator and big cables for sure.

So what's it doing now? No click at all? Or is it clicking but not starting?
If not clicking, do any of the other accessories work? Lights? Heater? Radio?

If you have a helper, pull the Blue w/red "S" wire off of the starter relay/solenoid and see if you're getting battery voltage (or close to it) there at it's connector.
If not, then you either have something wrong with the ignition switch, or the wire itself.

Was/is this an automatic trans Bronco? Got the Neutral Safety Switch hooked up?

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

In your other post you said you have lights, but no click. Is it possible that your battery is just too low now to crank the starter?
It happens a lot, so is a possibility worth bringing up.

For clarification, the alternator itself can't cause a no-crank condition. It's a separate system, so only something wrong with the battery, starter, or ignition switch circuits can cause the no-clicky, no-starty conditions.

Did you say what year your truck was? By the looks, it appears to be a pre-'73 ('70 maybe?), but it's nice to have that info anyway. Even though all of this stuff you're working on is new.

Thanks

Paul