Wish me luck - New suspension swap

[TorchRedTulsan]

I finally took the plunge today and ordered the Bilstein 2.5 Premium Suspension Kit from WH. Hoping to get started on it next weekend. I get pretty intimidated by projects on things I've never done before, but I've been wanting to do this for a couple years now.

Paul and James at Wild Horses were huge helps in giving guidance. Their level of customer service to people who aren't even customers is the biggest reason I'll purchase from them every chance I get.

 

[BoureeOne]

Good luck.... But it is all a lie without pics....

 

[bmbm]

2.5 lift

Sounds good. One thing I wish I had done while the lift was going on was to move the rear axle back an inch. Somewhere on here is info on doing this. Doesn't seem that hard but you would have to lengthen your rear drive line which might be needed anyway with the lift.

 

[nathan.hall1]

I just completed my 2.5 suspension lift (also have a 1 inch body).

Watch your front end I did one side at a time and came up with the bronco lean from hell...about two inch lean. So read up on that I know WH has a great write up on it. I used that afterwards to fix it. It's all about the front axle being level as you tighten the C bushings

I also just moved my reared back an inch because I chose a 33 10.5 tire... Good luck you will love the results

 

[tmbonnett]

I just finished installing the 3.5 WH lift with Bilstein shocks. Love it so far. Be sure to soak everything in PB Blaster while you await your delivery. It took two days and help from a friend.

 

[bobscott]

Make sure to look at the instructions on the direction of the of the leafs, maybe it is just me but the correct way was counterintuitive. You may have to open the plate on the leafs up a bit, a step bit works great for that.

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

Good luck.... But it is all a lie without pics....

I promise to get them up as I go.

Sounds good. One thing I wish I had done while the lift was going on was to move the rear axle back an inch. Somewhere on here is info on doing this. Doesn't seem that hard but you would have to lengthen your rear drive line which might be needed anyway with the lift.

This is the first time I'm hearing about this, and now nathan mentions it too. What's this all about?

I just completed my 2.5 suspension lift (also have a 1 inch body).

Watch your front end I did one side at a time and came up with the bronco lean from hell...about two inch lean. So read up on that I know WH has a great write up on it. I used that afterwards to fix it. It's all about the front axle being level as you tighten the C bushings

I also just moved my reared back an inch because I chose a 33 10.5 tire... Good luck you will love the results

This is my 2nd biggest concern. 1st being at a point of no return where I can't go back, but am in over my head. I didn't do a thread on how replacing my starter ended up being new headers, then a complete wiring harness, then a new engine... so I threw in the 23 gallon tank to round it out.

I just finished installing the 3.5 WH lift with Bilstein shocks. Love it so far. Be sure to soak everything in PB Blaster while you await your delivery. It took two days and help from a friend.

Hadn't thought of that! It's on the list now. Thanks!

 

[nathan.hall1]

It all depends on tire size and if you have uncut fenders, if I had went with a 31 10.5 no rear adjustment would have been necessary, but I stuffed 33 s under there with the uncut fender so I had to move it back to keep from rubbing. I love the 33s but hindsind it would have been easier with 31s.

If you have cut fenders with flares it's not necessary

Here's mine after the rear axle move I tried to get it to rub but so far it hasn't
[URL=http://s229.photobucket.com/user/myintimidator/media/53F98740-7400-4244-91EA-2B84DA846715.jpg.html] [/URL]

 

[nathan.hall1]

Sounds good. One thing I wish I had done while the lift was going on was to move the rear axle back an inch. Somewhere on here is info on doing this. Doesn't seem that hard but you would have to lengthen your rear drive line which might be needed anyway with the lift.

So looking at your sig you have a 2.5 SL and a 1" BL (just what I have) and you had to move your axle back for 30s?

If that was the case I don't feel bad for my 33s as I mentioned above

 

[bmbm]

rear axle

I have 30's now but have 31's sitting in the garage to go on. But even with 30's from a side view the axle just looks like it should go back to me the tire is way closer to the fender opening in the front.
That is a great looking Bronco Nathan.hall1

 

[navalbronco66]

Anyone have links to threads explaining how the rear axle is relocated further back.

 

[Crush]

watching.... for the axel move

 

[MyOriginal66]

Moving the axle back is fairly straightforward. You can either drill out the perch and u-bolt plate 1" forward of the stock hole or buy an aftermarket perch. The aftermarket perch will need to be welded onto the axle. Re-drilling the perch/plate just requires some muscle with a drill, a good drill bit and lots of wd-40. Drilling the u-bolt plate is debatable. Plenty have done it without but i'd prefer to do both.

Here's a link to JSmall's build. Scroll down midway. He used the aftermarket perch.
JSmall's build thread

Here's another thread http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205825&highlight=moving+rear+axle

Search is your friend

If your uncut and lifted, moving the axle back just looks better and adds function.

 

[Chief Master Sergeant]

I don't think you need to move the axle back. Just my opinion!

 

[Glass Pony]

Congrats on the suspension lift!
I haven't seen it mentioned yet but I would start hosing down all the hardware that has to come apart with a quality penetrating oil every day until then.

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

Oh, okay. I won't be moving the axle back then. I have cut fenders with 31's on a mainly street rig.

Congrats on the suspension lift!
I haven't seen it mentioned yet but I would start hosing down all the hardware that has to come apart with a quality penetrating oil every day until then.

Thanks, Pony. I hadn't thought of it, but tmbonnett mentioned PB Blaster a few posts earlier. Definitely going to start getting that working.

 

[Glass Pony]

Thanks, Pony. I hadn't thought of it, but tmbonnett mentioned PB Blaster a few posts earlier. Definitely going to start getting that working.

OOPS, missed that post. I'm a Kroil man myself.
Good luck and be safe, make sure the bronco is safely supported when you are underneath it.

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, that pre-application of penetrating lubricant is a good call. When I took my original u-bolts off for the first time, three out of the four broke! The nuts were rusted solid, and I could twist the u-bolts like springs with my breaker bar. Well, I then knew why they called them breaker bars!

Yes to drilling out the spring perch. I think I mentioned it before TRT, but if not it's good that it got mentioned here. I believe that the hole size goes up to 9/16" to fit the larger centerpins on our leaf packs.

Do you still want a walk-through on the process of installing the springs? Or do you think you have it pretty well dialed in your mind?

Have fun. Take your time and use common sense and you're going to have a nice lifted EB sooner than you think!

Paul

 

[nboost]

I just installed this combo last week. It sits perfect and rides good. I do have a vibration and my pinion angle is off "I didn't think with a 2.5 inch lift it would be" so I just ordered some shims to correct the pinion angle.

 

[DirtDonk]

Seems my skepticism has been justified. I usually tell anybody buying one of our sets of leaf springs to go ahead and buy the shims ahead of time anyway. That way you have them right there if you need them, but can return them if you don't.

If money is an absolute issue, or you don't want the hassle of returning something, I can see waiting until you're sure you need one. But if you'd rather have everything you might possibly need (kind of like tools! ) then get them ahead of time.

I'd say that fewer people doing a 2.5 need them than those doing taller lifts, but they're still needed more often than not in my experience.

Did I happen to mention that with you Red? Hope so.
Glad you felt your vibration immediately nboost. That way you won't have to be wondering why you're changing u-joints every 1000 miles!

Paul