...I was under standing it wasn't turning over at all.
Community
Message Forum
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Photo Gallery
Event Calendar
Book Reviews
Bronco Wallpaper
Bronco FAQ
Link Back to CB!
Buy / Sell
Bronco Tech
3 Arm Wiper Setup
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
Fix Motor Mount
Roll Cage Braces
Throttle Body 65mm
Wheel Alignment
Heat Riser Replacement
Vent Window Repair
Center Console Mount
Straighten Bumper
Ford 6R80 6 spd
More Tech...
-
Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.
Won’t Start- Help trouble shooting
- Thread starter Banjer Picker
- Start date
OP
OP
Banjer Picker
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2006
- Messages
- 1,357
It wasn’t. It wouldn’t even engage the solenoid when I turned the key. I plugged that 4 wire plug back in and it fired up with the first bump of the key.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 48,265
I don't know anyone with that bit of harness. But it should be easy enough to cobb one up out of easily available stuff.
Will your new harness come with a replacement? As far as I know only the Painless harness has the actual same layout (twin 2-wire plugs though, instead of a single 4-wire) but on automatics with the NSS I've just cut the factory connector off of both ends of the harness and used a 4-wire Weatherpack connector instead.
You could do the same thing here.
But that would presume that you're going to be using Weatherpacks in the future too, as you really do need to use the Weatherpack-specific crimpers to make the job easier and cleaner. Then you have to buy the connectors themselves too.
So three alternatives to that scenario are:
1. use whatever type of connectors you have laying around, or just splice the wires together. You're not going to keep it this way anyway, so as we like to say around here, "it's only temporary. Unless it works!"
2. You can go to an auto part store or trailer place and get a similar square 4-wire connector with wires that you can splice into your existing wires. This would work very well in fact, even though the colors won't match and the orientation of the pins would not necessarily be the same as stock.
3. Use a simple buss-bar connection. Typical "Radio Shack" style with a plastic base and stainless screw-downs. Clip your old connector off and crimp on some fork-style terminals compatible with the buss-bar. Use this as your temporary connector. Looks a little old-school, but does not require any special tools other than a traditional crimper, common terminals and a bare spot to mount it.
Very reliable in fact.
Obviously most of this is simply for your backup lights. You're still just going to either create a new loop for the starter circuit, or simply butt-splice the two halves of the Red w/blue wire together to complete the circuit permanently.
Paul
Will your new harness come with a replacement? As far as I know only the Painless harness has the actual same layout (twin 2-wire plugs though, instead of a single 4-wire) but on automatics with the NSS I've just cut the factory connector off of both ends of the harness and used a 4-wire Weatherpack connector instead.
You could do the same thing here.
But that would presume that you're going to be using Weatherpacks in the future too, as you really do need to use the Weatherpack-specific crimpers to make the job easier and cleaner. Then you have to buy the connectors themselves too.
So three alternatives to that scenario are:
1. use whatever type of connectors you have laying around, or just splice the wires together. You're not going to keep it this way anyway, so as we like to say around here, "it's only temporary. Unless it works!"
2. You can go to an auto part store or trailer place and get a similar square 4-wire connector with wires that you can splice into your existing wires. This would work very well in fact, even though the colors won't match and the orientation of the pins would not necessarily be the same as stock.
3. Use a simple buss-bar connection. Typical "Radio Shack" style with a plastic base and stainless screw-downs. Clip your old connector off and crimp on some fork-style terminals compatible with the buss-bar. Use this as your temporary connector. Looks a little old-school, but does not require any special tools other than a traditional crimper, common terminals and a bare spot to mount it.
Very reliable in fact.
Obviously most of this is simply for your backup lights. You're still just going to either create a new loop for the starter circuit, or simply butt-splice the two halves of the Red w/blue wire together to complete the circuit permanently.
Paul
