yeah or neah on another efi build thread

[marty]

now all of the pictures are back. who the hell knows whats going on. but anyway i worked on installing the 4.0 explorer radiator. no need to cut the radiator support like others have. i have plenty of clearence between the fan being i am not running a electric fan setup. i am using the derale fan that bc broncos sells with a 1/2" spacer behind it. i could probably even go with a
3/4" spacer but i already bought the 1/2" one. the factory shroud even comes close to fitting pretty good. i have made some cuts and ground down a good amount of areas but it looks factory. i just need to fiberglass one small edge where it was broken for years. i just might buy a new one from JBG and just use the original as a template. i fabricated brackets for the lower part of the radiator using angle iron and some box tubing. i just cut off the lower curved part of the original radiator brackets. for the grommets i used valve cover pcv grommets 5/8" hole size. and the top i cut off the original tabs and used the mounting points on the new radiator. here are some pics.

 

[marty]

more pics

 

[Tito]

Excellent job on the radiator mount...I am soon to order mine to go with my explorer serp'd motor.

Did you adjust the height of the radiator to center the fan in the shroud or was it pretty close as the shroud mounted?

 

[marty]

the radiator is almost in the same location as the original just the mounting is different.

 

[marty]

ok so tonight i got the mass air meter and tubing all in place. i had to make a wedge under the meter to match the angle of the intake tube. all worked out as planned.

 

[COBlu77]

Nice looking engine, but I have to agree with Viperwolf, that breather on the valve cover will make it run lean, idle like poo and should throw some codes -- guaranteed. It's basically a bad vacuum leak. Been there, done that, had to learn the hard way.

 

[marty]

Nice looking engine, but I have to agree with Viperwolf, that breather on the valve cover will make it run lean, idle like poo and should throw some codes -- guaranteed. It's basically a bad vacuum leak. Been there, done that, had to learn the hard way.

yeah i am working on a fix for that. i noticed on some other build threads that the explorer valve covers have a clamp on fill tube so i might go that way and weld a small section of sheetmetal with small holes to keep the oil spray down in the cover. i will then also i think be able to run the tube up to the t-body like before. i better take care of it quick cause you guys are ragging on me for it. lmao

 

[broncojames]

yeah i am working on a fix for that. i noticed on some other build threads that the explorer valve covers have a clamp on fill tube so i might go that way and weld a small section of sheetmetal with small holes to keep the oil spray down in the cover. i will then also i think be able to run the tube up to the t-body like before. i better take care of it quick cause you guys are ragging on me for it. lmao

I am not a mechanic by no means but the valve cover breather
would you be able to take a small chunk of tin and punch holes in it and place inside the filter to reduce the air flow ?? over all think it looks cool nice job hope mine looks as good when i get that far..

 

[marty]

thanks james.

 

[marty]

ok so over the weekend i got some more work completed and was able to fire it off. i was not able to run for more than a few seconds due to the fact i still need a heater control valve and to have a copper reducer fitting bead rolled for the lower radiator hose. but from the sound of it it sounds pretty good even though i was not able to put a timing light on it yet and adjust what ever is going to need to be final adjustment. i am running it to with open shorty headers and i do need to get the exhaust done as soon as possible. i will post more pics as soon as possible but i left my camera at my shop. i have pics of what i did with the heater control valve and the h-fitting so that the ect sensor see's constant fluid flow when the heat is not in function. and also all the other things i have added to complete the engine swap. yesterday when i fired it up for the first time i had such a feeling of acomplishment. it had been 3 weeks to the day when i started the swap. i know i said i wanted to get it done in 1 week but we all new that wasn't gonna happen. but three weeks time for the amount of work that i did i feel was not too bad considering i did this all by myself with no help from anyone.

 

[marty]

here's some latest pictures. the hose shot is what i did with the lower hose. and there is a heater hose pic of what i came up with for the valve and how to keep the circulation for the ECT sensor.

don't worry i am getting to the breather issue tomorrow

 

[Bronco_69]

sure looks nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[DanWheeler]

great work - very clean. I like what you did with the heater valve there and the T's that allow the coolant to flow back once you've closed the valve.

if you ever want to redo that setup with a modern valve, you can get one from a 96 Ranger and it has the T-return built in. You can control it with vacuum or just directly

 

[RustyShackelfor]

that overflow and washer reservoir looks like it fit great. did it do that naturally or did you have to make it fit?

 

[marty]

that overflow and washer reservoir looks like it fit great. did it do that naturally or did you have to make it fit?

no that is how it fit right out of the late '80's mid '90's fullsize ford pickup i got it from.

 

[marty]

great work - very clean. I like what you did with the heater valve there and the T's that allow the coolant to flow back once you've closed the valve.

if you ever want to redo that setup with a modern valve, you can get one from a 96 Ranger and it has the T-return built in. You can control it with vacuum or just directly

well it might look nice but my heat suffered. i think what i am going to have to do is put some kind of restrictor in between the t-fittings. i might try a washer with a small hole and see how that works. if not back to the drawing board. that ranger fitting how could i work it from the cable. does that vacumm canister come off so i can install a cable clamp setup on it for the manual cable. if so that might be my next option. it looks as though it does with 2 screws.

 

[marty]

this might sound like a dumb question but does it matter which is in and which is out on the heater core lines. maybe i have them in the wrong order and that is why i have no heat. just trying to see if that is my problem before i go and reinvent the wheel again.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Makes no difference on the core. I've even moved the shutoff valve from the input side to the output side and had no ill effects.

 

[itsabronco]

now all of the pictures are back. who the hell knows whats going on. but anyway i worked on installing the 4.0 explorer radiator. no need to cut the radiator support like others have. i have plenty of clearence between the fan being i am not running a electric fan setup. i am using the derale fan that bc broncos sells with a 1/2" spacer behind it. i could probably even go with a
3/4" spacer but i already bought the 1/2" one. the factory shroud even comes close to fitting pretty good.]

what year of exploder radiator, shroud, and serp setup did you use?

 

[marty]

what year of exploder radiator, shroud, and serp setup did you use?

the radiator is a '94 the fan shroud is the original '69 and the serp setup is '90 mustang.