Absolute minimum wiring to make it run

[lonesouth]

well, turns out i cooked more wires than initially thought. What is the minimum i need hooked up for this thing to run? Not interested in lights or guages or anything but making it run. What terminals go where?

TIA

 

[Amac70]

hum hot wire to the coil+ wire. distributor to - coil . battery to solinoid. solinoid to starter. ground battery. Jump across post on soliniod with screw driver to start. this will make it run but you need more to make it drive.

 

[lonesouth]

can you include the key in that? should have mentioned i need to be able to turn it on and off easy

 

[broncow72]

Using a pair of salad tongs... pull the coil + wire off and you have a cut off.

 

[lonesouth]

more likely to be hot dog tongs...and i can use a crumpled beer can to start it

 

[70_Steve]

You need power from the BAT+ terminal on the starter solenoid, thru the fuse link to wire 38 (black w/Red stripe), then on to wire 37 (black w/Yellow stripe) through the ammeter and back to the alternator. From a factory splice in 37, power is supplied to the ignition switch through wire 21 (Yellow). With the key in RUN, power is supplied by the ignition switch to the coil through wire 16 (Red w/Green stripe). With the key in START, power is supplied by the ignition switch to the starter solenoid through wire 32 (Red w/Black stripe). Also with the key in START, power is supplied to the coil through wire 262 (Brown) which bypasses the resistor wire 32.

 

[acbronco66]

I would like to see you use a mashed beer can to jump out the solinoid
That would be a little shocking

Ross Baker
Bama Gang

 

[lonesouth]

necessity is the mother of...redneck punch lines

can i get by without the resistor wire, just regular wire for everything? what guage wire should i use?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Removing the ballast resistor and it will start and run. But it is hard on points. Having a weak battery will help the points live longer (less voltage). It will work long enough to drive it into a shop or onto a tailer, but don't expect it to last more then 10~15 minutes. Running a light bulb in series can act as a crude ballast resistor and points indicator. Bulb at full bright or out when trying to start it indicates the points are fried.

To turn it off, disconnect the wire at the coil or battery. Pulling battery cable to stall it is OK since there won't be an alternator running to spike.

How long do you need it to run for?

 

[70_Steve]

necessity is the mother of...redneck punch lines

If you drive a Bronco with burned up wires.... you might be a redneck!!!;D

can i get by without the resistor wire, just regular wire for everything? what guage wire should i use?

You can get by without the resistor if you only run the engine for a short time. Dunno what "short time" is, but the resistor wire is there to limit the current to the coil. If the coil is designed to run with the resistor wire and you eliminate the resistor, the coil will get too hot and fail. You can buy a ballast resistor (the equivelant of the resistor wire) at most auto parts store. Just mount it on the firewall. The stock resistor wire is 1.30 to 1.40 ohms. 16 gauge wire should be plenty.

 

[lonesouth]

Ok, I now realize that I wasn't very clear as to my intentions. I want to make it run so I can go play for the day. You know, a last Horra before I tear it apart for a while. I am running a pertronics flame thrower coil and pertronics ignitor instead of points. Since the wires are fried, I want to replace only enough wires to have normal functionality of the key for start/run(acc does not matter since none are hooked up). The only electric device I have that is necessary is the fuel pump.

So the goal; to run as few wires as necessary to go wheel for a day.

Lifted this schematic from another post...What can I remove and where should the coil be?

 

[70_Steve]

Reference my post #6 for most of what you need. Take a look at N8's Site ( http://www.wsu.edu/~i6735189/diagrams.htm ) for the wiring diagrams. In addition to what I mentioned in my post, you will need the alternator and voltage regulator to function. That means you'll need wire #904 to the voltage regulator from the ignition switch. Also Wire 35 from the alternator to the voltage regulator, and 152 from a splice in wire 38 to the voltage regulator. Dunno how you had the fuel pump powered so I can't guess at that. Wire 904 is hot with the key in RUN. If you have no other accessories, you might be able to get away with powering the pump directly off of that wire. Or use is as the trigger for the relay to power the fuel pump.

 

[lonesouth]

Using a relay to power the fuel pump. Also, since it is a 4g, internally regulated, do i need a voltage regulator?

 

[70_Steve]

Using a relay to power the fuel pump. Also, since it is a 4g, internally regulated, do i need a voltage regulator?

OK, so, like I mentioned, use 904 as the trigger for the fuel pump relay. Also, use 904 (hot in run) to go to the " I " terminal on the 4G. Also, need that big-a$$ wire from the B+ (BAT) connection on the 4G to either the battery positive connection, or to the BAT+ side of the starter solenoid. Also, don't forget the jumper fromthe B+ (BAT) connection on the alternator to the " A " terminal.
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/public/alternator/4G-ALT_wiring.gif

 

[lonesouth]

awesome, thanks!!

 

[lonesouth]

This has got to be a stupid question: If the coil is connected to both the C and the S, what prevents the power from backfeeding the S line after you release the key from start? Diode?

Here is what I have so far...

 

[70_Steve]

This has got to be a stupid question: If the coil is connected to both the C and the S, what prevents the power from backfeeding the S line after you release the key from start? Diode?

The coil should not be connected as shown. The coil gets power from the C connection with the key in the run position. The " I " connection on the starter, that looks like it's connect to ground (can you say "More melted wires") should be connected to the wire going to the coil, but after the ballast resistor. Really shouldn't use the same wire for power to the coil as the one to the I connection on the alternator. Run that Red/Green wire all the way back to the C connection on the ignition switch. Make sure the blue wire has a ballast resistor in it. Remove the jumper at the ignition switch from C to S, and add the connection from the starter solenoid I terminal to the coil.

 

[lonesouth]

Like this?

 

[70_Steve]

Like this?

Yeah, actually that looks pretty good. Might want to consider putting a fuse in the red wire going to the relay to fuse the fuel pump. And, just on a practical note, on my 3G conversion, I ran the output of the alternator to the BAT+ terminal on the solenoid, only 'cause it was easier. I just used a big ring connector on the end of the wire. There's only a 12" battery cable from the positive battery post to the solenoid, so I figured it was OK.

 

[lonesouth]

Yea, not thinking, that's how I had it setup before I fried it. Thanks a lot for the info! Hopefully I can get it all ripped out today and rewire(basic) tomorrow.