Thinking of going back to stock height. Leave the 2 inch body lift.

[73azbronco]

Yup, double up on one of the longer springs and add a 1" spacer and you might be spot on for 1.5". I built a a lot of spring packs by doubling up or adding a spring leaf or two. "Custom".

bingo, found a couple spring shops in PHX, so looking up, just fix what I got...

 

[73azbronco]

so without racking my search brain, what is stock height and where is it measured again? Front and back? OK, I searched, seems common number is bottom of frame to top of axle, 6 or 7 inches.

So is it 6 or 7? or some other number?

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/t...n-frame-and-axle-housing.260422/#post-2771623

BTW when I put on my 3.5 inch lift springs, even with protofab and winch, and an NV4500 which weighs a ton, i think it ended up being closer to 4.5 lift, and might have relaxed back to 4. Hence desire to get it back into slide into height vs running jump height. I'm 6'1".

 

[Oldtimer]

so without racking my search brain, what is stock height and where is it measured again? Front and back? OK, I searched, seems common number is bottom of frame to top of axle, 6 or 7 inches.

So is it 6 or 7? or some other number?

To quote DirtDonk

. . . but we have a measurement you can make as long as the vehicle is still on the ground and at full weight.
Measure the distance between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail. The rear is approx. 6" stock (front is 7" if you're going to check that too) so anything more than a half-inch above or below that is your lift or sag.

 

[Madgyver]

37"s here

 

[73azbronco]

To quote DirtDonk

. . . but we have a measurement you can make as long as the vehicle is still on the ground and at full weight.
Measure the distance between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail. The rear is approx. 6" stock (front is 7" if you're going to check that too) so anything more than a half-inch above or below that is your lift or sag.

thanks, will bemeasuring

 

[Speedrdr]

37"s here

Was it stuck or did it come out under its own power? Good thing you’re wearing 37’s. Lol

Randy

 

[73azbronco]

OK then, almost 11 inches in back and 10 plus a little up front... So a four or so inch lift. Yeah, I measured all around and taking all that lift off still gives me tire clearance front and back. And might not have to remove raised track bar to boot. I thought this thing sat a little high... (used 3.5 spring lift, with protofabs, winch and 35 on the back, it just never settled...)



Edit, after doing the math, I’m going with new set of 1.5 springs front and back from WH. All done at once and no trips to find a spring place that doesn’t respond to calls or emails…

 

[73azbronco]

Thank you wildhorse, once again, springs show up before I can even get old ones off.

 

[DirtDonk]

Great! Thanks for the shout out.
Glad you got them quickly, even if the extra shipping hurts for a little while.

 

[73azbronco]

CRap! I'll title this how to undo a tie rod over and make it so you don't have 1/2 inch of suspension travel.

So, everything going smoothly on my delifting back to 1.5 lift, all springs on. On last shock, right front side, I notice this, no clearance on raised track bar. OK, 1/2 inch. Take bumstop out, I have 2.5.








So, you can see the raised track bar bolt thingy, not sure who or what that is or where it came from. My guess a Duff rip off from late 2000's. Same for my tie rods over.

My thoughts, I need to first turn EB around in garage, I got no room to maneuver.

Then. I detach the tie rod over stuff. If you look at pic you can see OEM bolt location, it was used to help weld raised bracket around OEM bracket. OEM bolt head is still on back side but behind a layer of welding to back of that bracket, and is only in there with what feels like one small spot of a booger weld. A perfect location with the 1.5 inch lift would be about an inch above oem, but that might not clearance the tie rod over. My other find, for an unknown reason some of the OEM bracket weld to axle was ground off right side, no idea why, did not interfere with new bracket.

Things I must do to drop lift, I have to cut that raised track bar down at least 2 inches. To do that I need to reposition axle track bar bolt. I got a place who can, but is swamped... I did find a replacement Orem style bracket on Tom’s for $44, so there is my start, plasma and grinder and cutting on the way.

Questions I have for you experts,

The tie rod over has the spindles drilled with reverse taper right? Can I fix that and go back to no taper or reverse it the other way? Or, Am I going to need new spindles, as these are fullsize broncos? As in can't find them...

My best hope, I can keep tie rod over, and move track bar bolt to newer location. This calls for grinding or a chance to use plasma cutter...


As proof 35's fit cut, here is rear sitting on ground with 1.5 SL and 2BL. Also, Milodon 7qt 2 hump offroad 4x4 pan clears front axle pumpkin by about an inch on left side, pan is already notched for that.

 

[DirtDonk]

Can you turn the wheels all the way to the left and measure the clearance between the draglink bolt and the trackbar bolt as it sits now? Just curious how close it gets.
Because it’s the “GM 1 ton“ type linkage (though it looks a bit smaller, like Jeep stuff?) the bolt on your drag like is straight back and probably in the worst place for clearance.
But if you use a tie rod with the stock type angle you might gain some clearance and be able to keep the TRO.

Maybe someone can measure their bump stop clearance with a purely stock setup and give you something to compare to.
They do have very low profile bump stops that are generally for cars with A-arm suspensions, but they can still soften the blow if things touch.

Are there already pictures of your whole steering set up in this thread?
If not, can you post some up?

 

[73azbronco]

Thanks dirt photos coming. Thought I had the f150/FS 87-79 bronco steering.

I also noted the Toms OEM bracket and bolt is severely angled up about 30-40 degrees, is that really normal?

I know all I need for clearin g TRO is a bolt just at bottom of current link, about 1.5 inches hih from stock., put a bolt there and I would have parallel steering parts and clears with tie rod over giving 8 inches of clearance which is more enough. Solves the tie rod over reverse ream job...

 

[73azbronco]

Hi, So here is full lock right, looking from right to left onto track bar axle mount. Just under 3 inches of clearance with TRO.

I basically will need track bar hole to be about where the tape measure is resting on the modified bracket to give me parallel steering with drag link. This means I really don't care how long the bolt is, it will clear.


The shock is a PSA, this is how old arthritic hands compress a gas loaded shock, use tie down strap, make sure you don't get ratchet side strip in a place you can't get it out. Like I did.

 

[DirtDonk]

How much difference, if any, is it when you turn it fully to the left?

 

[73azbronco]

None, same throw.

My plan, plasma the modified track bracket to where I can get the toms replacement bracket to fit where I want. Then find a welder who wants to weld on a bronco on an axle that is mounted to springs and such. I really dont want to remove the axle.

 

[73azbronco]

Today, pulled front steering linkage. Cannot for life of me see how to cut and re-weld axle track bar mount without pulling axle off, specifically passenger side spring and radio is arm bracket. Since those need to come off, I’m pulling whole axle.

Taking axle to shop to get new bracket welded up.

Anyone know why the track bar bracket bolt is built with an angle pointing up about 10 or 20 degrees? I can only figure it allowed them easier assembly at factory. The angle actually would impart a weird twisting force on the axle as it goes up and down. Having bolt horizontal or very close to the radious arm arc of travel would, I think, be best. But, who knows, I’ll weld Tom’s bracket on at same angle to keep it standard, but raised about an inch to account for 1.5 suspension lift.

Also, while removing tie rods, I find my full-size bronco front end still has more than enough taper top or bottom so I can insert them back in tie rod under again. Solves the long track bar bolt issue.

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you doing this all at ride height?
As it came originally from the factory, it probably was more linear with the upper mount. I’m pretty sure the original trackbar was in phase with the upper and lower amounts eyelets, so it probably was that way.
Raising the vehicle suspension changes the angle downward and what I believe we try to achieve is a neutral angle when the vehicle is sitting at its normal ride height.
You want to adjust everything at the same time, or at least with the one goal in mind. Make sure your radius arms are where they are going to be for the given amount of lift, then either reweld the trackbar bracket, or better yet just get an adjustable track bar so you can change the angle of the upper eye to match. This way there’s no inherent twist or tension built into it at ride height.
No reason I can see you to go through the motions of cutting the radius arm pads off of the tubes (if that’s what you meant?) to achieve correct pinion angle.
You can get a good pinion angle with C-bushings, and then change your caster by cutting off the outer ends.
Those are the steering yokes, commonly referred to as the “inner-C” and that changes your caster to the desired amount.

Basically, I was saying, I don’t think there was a misalignment from the factory. Or if there was, perhaps they felt that the suspension was going to spend more time extending downwards than it was compressing.
In that case, they would have built in a little bit of extra upward tilt of the bolt, rather than downward, tilt or straight ahead.
But it’s been so long since I’ve had a stock bronco with stock components, I don’t have anything to compare to.

Maybe someone with an original can verify the lower mount angle compared to the upper mount.

 

[73azbronco]

Oh boy, i think I may have said something wrong for you to think this.

I am only replacing axle track bar mount as seen in picture post 30/33.

Radius arms are fine, but I cant weld or cut with them that close to track bar mount. I do have to order lower angle bushings, thanks for reminding me. Which ones for 1.5SL?

I am lowering track bar axle bolt because at 1.5SL, down from 3.5 SL, there is no way to have a bump stop on passenger side. And let me tell you it rides pretty odd with only 1/4 inch of movement right now.


Idea on which fittings to seal brakes lines i have to disconnect from axle?

 

[DirtDonk]

Gotcha. I probably just read through it too fast and misinterpreted.
No need to add more projects to your list!

 

[73azbronco]

Yeah, now the project includes renting an engine lift so i can drop the axle. Yes, I have a hilift, but want a little more stability lifting front end from protofab bumper. To old to move fast if it sways..