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Truck Wont Move after Disc Brake upgrade

68ford

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Possible spacing is off and when wheels are tightened down it is pushing the rotors into the calipers and applying the inner pads on both sides? I don't see how you could be retaining enough pressure from simply only changing the rear calipers to make it not move. Are you actually giving it throttle and it won't move? If so that pretty serious resistance.
 

AZ73

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Along the line of "is it plugged in?", Is it a posi and in gear? ;)
 
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rydog1130

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Possible spacing is off and when wheels are tightened down it is pushing the rotors into the calipers and applying the inner pads on both sides? I don't see how you could be retaining enough pressure from simply only changing the rear calipers to make it not move. Are you actually giving it throttle and it won't move? If so that pretty serious resistance.

I have a feeling this might be the case and yes I gave it a little gas to see if it would budge and nothing. Let me know if you think you see anything wrong in this pic. F7BDD8C0-C85F-4C76-A7BE-AB2D80061400.jpg
 

Broncobowsher

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Looks like the caliper slider is bottomed out on the bracket.
Can you take a shim out of the bracket and move it closer to the rotor?
 
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rydog1130

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Looks like the caliper slider is bottomed out on the bracket.
Can you take a shim out of the bracket and move it closer to the rotor?

Yeah I'll try that next week im up there. The directions say most broncos will take 1 thin and 2 thick spacers. The thin spacers are about 1/8" and the the thick are about 3/16" - 1/4".
 
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rydog1130

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I'm wondering if you've figured this out yet.

Unfortunately no, My real world job requires a solid week straight of work. I will be back to investigating it next week Monday... tbc
 

Pa PITT

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... I understand ... I too have a Real Job. & a FARM ... & All my projects .. One of my project that's so importante on Monday may not be looked at for 3 months at times.
 
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rydog1130

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... I understand ... I too have a Real Job. & a FARM ... & All my projects .. One of my project that's so importante on Monday may not be looked at for 3 months at times.

I wish I got paid to work on my bronco...lol
 
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rydog1130

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Ok, so after talking to the guys at TSM mfg they think it might be a few things. 1 spacing on the calipers. I may need to adjust my spacers or remove the shims off the back of the pads. 2. retaining pressure ie faulty piston, proportion valve, or MC.

So, lets say I go through #1 and it doesn't resolve the issue and I crack the bleeders and Wahla the wheels turn free how do I check the MC to see if it has a residual valve on the rear brakes? As mentioned above it states you would need to take a sheet metal screw and use it to remove the residual valve. Can anyone provide a picture of what I'm supposed to be looking for? I feel like I should check this first before moving on to a prop valve. If theres no residual valve then I will replace the prop valve. thanks in advance!
 

68ford

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It is so unlikely you are retaining enough pressure that your EB will not move in gear with a little throttle that I would not even think of that untill you loosen the rear lugnuts and find out you can then turn the rear wheels. ;D
If you were retaining that amount of psi it would not have moved with drum brakes either. Disc aren't that much better if at all.
 

DirtDonk

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Yeah, what ford said. The residual pressure check valves are on the order of 2psi for disc and 10psi for drum, and that's the aftermarket stuff. Probably very close to, if not exactly what was used from the factory.
But unless it's clogged, it's not going to lock up your brakes. They can drag a bit when driving, but not do this.
I drove around for a week or two as a test, with the check valve still in my stock master when I installed disc brakes. No perceived dragging.

But first of all, have you even cracked a bleeder open yet? If so, what happens.
And if not, before you do, can you eyeball down the caliper to see if the piston is already fully compressed or not?
If there is still room for the piston to compress, then crack a bleeder and get the pressure issue resolved.

If there is no more room, then it's likely that either your pads or the rotors are too thick. This is unfortunately way too common a problem these days. Almost no regard for original tolerances in modern wear parts.
I've had personal experience in the last five years with pads to thick to even fit into the calipers over the rotors, shoes to thick (or the wrong radius) to fit under a drum, drums machined incorrectly and not fitting over correct shoes, rotors too thick to fit under the calipers, and splined bearing hubs with splines too short for the locking mechanisms to fit.

So if one or more of your parts are not to spec, it's not without precedent.
But only you can check. How hard was it to slide the loaded calipers over the rotors?
If they went on easy enough, then thickness is not a problem and it's either pressure or offset. (seemingly that is!)

Paul
 
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rydog1130

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ok, so list of trouble shooting...

1. Remove tires....no results then
2. Check pads/calipers for space issues if ok then
3. Crack bleeders correct calipers/pads/bracket if that's the issue...no results
4. Replace prop valve

I will report back after Monday!
 

68ford

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There is only step 1 and 2, because that's going to fix it :p
 
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rydog1130

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There is only step 1 and 2, because that's going to fix it :p

well, looks like you were right! I couldn't take waiting so I called up my pops and had him go out and take some pictures. It looks like the top of the caliper is coming into contact with the rim....now what? bigger rims? get out the flap disc and shave the caliper down?

IMG_9336.jpg IMG_9337.jpg

IMG_9338.jpg IMG_9339.jpg
 

Apogee

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Grind the caliper or space out the wheel, or some combination thereof.
 
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rydog1130

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Pics to come but I fixed it!!! Thanks guys for all the input!!
 

nvrstuk

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Glad you are up and running...
 
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rydog1130

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ok so after taking the tires off and a little inspection you can see the caliper was making contact with the rim where the face meets the outer portion of the rim. The outer edge of the caliper was catching, basically the corners near the mounting bolts for the calipers. I kept adding washers until i could get the wheel to spin and 2 per bolt hole was the magic number.

IMG_9371.jpg IMG_9366.jpg

I ended up grinding about 3/16" off each caliper and now the wheels spin freely. Thank God! lol! I can't believe this 15 minute youtube video turned into an almost 3 month project lol

IMG_9380.jpg IMG_9412.jpg IMG_9413.jpg
 
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